engine rattle
#11
ok no additives were put in. i used motorkote and i did not use motormedic. the second oil change was still dirty. i might do it a third time after a months time or so, and use mobil one full synthetic. my dad wants to put lucas transmission slip stop in his truck, he has no clue what hes doing tho. do you think lucas is a bad additive?
The only motor oil additives i will ever use are Kanolabs Kreen and Marvel Mystery Oil.....and thats only when warranted. They are safe to use in moderation and do a good job at cleaning up sludge and varnish. However with todays synthetic oils, cleaning additives are not needed.
#12
rattle. it only happens when the truck first starts and its not consistent at all. it rattles most when i stop at the first intersection or the first time im in reverse. the rattle comes from the brace the pulls the engine out, driver side. the one that goes over one of the exhaust manifolds
Have someone/you watch the clearance between this (Emissions tube & engine lifting bracket) as someone/you shift the trans from drive to reverse servery times. (may have to give a little throttle).
Sludge is from oil brake down & slowly reduces oil flow AKA-slow death.
Synthetic oils aren't a "bad idea" as its been noted,
they have there place as in reducing wear & increasing component life.
(Life span required by owner depends on "cost" & the time of expected ownership to cease)
Standard Synthetic automotive oils don't reduce oil "consumption" inside a engine once the engine starts consuming it.
(This engine High Mileage oil terminology is misleading & instead should read engine High Hours oil)
(I know of many trucks that run almost 24/7 & are sold with low miles & have been beaten to death)
Using additives to increase friction in a slipping trans.
Adding trans fluid in the engine to swell leaking seals.
Pepper in a leaking radiator.
Wood chips in noisy differential.
LoL-Not saying band-aids are bad but there meant to be temporary.
Transmission
My 2000 F150 I sold in 2009 had over 200,000miles on a stock transmission (had 50,000miles on the truck when I bought truck).
I myself drained the trans & convertor to replace the oil regularly as I pulled a 18ft boat & a car trailer.
Note: if you keep using a automotive transmission that is slipping/not pulling, then at a point the wear becomes enough that a person has to replace more than just the clutches/bands, you'll have damaged more costly "hard parts" to replace.
.
Last edited by Fordjunkync; 07-04-2014 at 04:22 PM.
#13
Had my oil changed regularly, forgot about the air filter.
found new evidence to why its rattling. the nut broke off that holds the bracket in place. should i try to replace the nut or tie it back with a coat hanger?
Also found an oil leak seems to be the only one. might have caused the nut to break, maybe. i bought some engine cleaner but im a little worried about spraying the engine. i think i should cover the ignition coils with a plastic bag, right?
#15
i have engine cleaner but im a little worried about how to use it. im thinking of covering the ignition coils and just spraying it down, its a gunk product NON-foaming. afterwards im thinking of a very light spray with the garden house, with the nossle that twists to let out a straight beam of water or the other way for a light spray. and then blowing it down with a leaf blower. is there any problem with that?
#16
i have engine cleaner but im a little worried about how to use it. im thinking of covering the ignition coils and just spraying it down, its a gunk product NON-foaming. afterwards im thinking of a very light spray with the garden house, with the nossle that twists to let out a straight beam of water or the other way for a light spray. and then blowing it down with a leaf blower. is there any problem with that?
The nut broke off under tension & most likely was cracked for a good while due to the way it broke, notice the raised spot, that was where finally snapped. It wasnt caused by the oil.
Just a FYI, Some of the F150s header bolts (not a stud off the top of a bolt like yours) snap off around 100,000ish plus miles LoL.
The leak is from the valve covers.
The Gunk brand white can of engine cleaner that you most likely have in hand you spray the areas that need cleaning down & let it set for a bit & then spray off with a water hose or pressure washer.
This vehicle doesnt have the coil over the sparkplug (there the 1s that are finicky about holding water in the plug pockets) so I wouldnt even be scared to even pressure wash the engine.
If concerned about the non-over-sparkplug coilpacks then wrap plastic around them.
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muncheese (07-07-2014)