Kaizen2014

Now that's what I'm talking about. I am not at the micrometer level with engines yet so that's the advise I'm looking for. I did already unplug each cylinder one at a time at idle and the noise remained for all of them. Someone else said that so that is why I was ruling out bottom end crank/cylinders/rods.

papa tiger

Internal inspection is always a good thing with this bad sound. U can't expertly fix motors with out micrometer measurements although a caliper from Harbor freight is a good start and is fairly good for diagnostic uses. Just get a engine diagnostic page.

RLXXI

So you want to learn how to rather than replace. I can say one thing, if it were my truck and I planed on keeping it a while I would put a rebuilt engine in it with a warranty. If you just need it running good enough to sell, get a used engine. In any event that engine needs to come out and apart.

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Kaizen2014

Just looking to learn. If I have to tear into this more then a lifter or timing chain I'd be an idiot to rebuild it. Chances are even if its that I will just put a new engine in. I just want to make sure its not say a loose torque converter or accessory or whatever. So i'll check the runout on cylinder 1 rocker to check timing chain play. Lets say that is perfect you all are saying there isn't much I can do to find the exact valve or cylinder that's an issue without taking it apart?

RLXXI

Low compression on Cylinder might be a good indicator, but short of pulling the engine apart no way to know for certain. You might pull the oil pan if you can get it out without pulling the engine and look for metal.


When I went to mechanic school one of the ways they taught us how to work on things like engines, transmissions, differentials etc was to tear down and put back together those items we had in the shop, they weren't going to be running they were just practice pieces.

When you get the replacement motor take your old one apart and put it back together a few times, best way to learn. Torque specs and what not won't matter because it will get torn down when you turn it in for a core but will give you a good idea how things go together.

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bobkyle2

Have you looked at the oil pan?? Make sure something is not dented the oil pan.

Kaizen2014

Oil pan is fine. Going to drain it next and filter it.


Tested the run out on cyl 1 pushrod tonight. Brought it up to TDC as best as I could as I can't see a timing mark thing. Marked the cam pulley then rotated back till I saw the littlest movement. I'm trying to get my hands on a dial gauge to be sure but from the 2 marks on the pulley its about 3 to 4 inches. Only supposed to be 5 degrees max so I'm thinking 45 percent of that pulley is way more then its supposed to be. Going to get a dial gauge to verify and then I'll be changing the whole chain assembly. Hey 70 bucks so its only my time. I'll report back when that happens. Probably not for a week till I get everything in.


I appreciate everyone's input on this. definitely learning a lot about internals.

papa tiger

With that much free play U got broke parts.

RLXXI

Audio on your PC work? Just have to listen to the video he posted to tell that lol.

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papa tiger

I will suspect that as U pull it down looking U will find a piston down in the bore some, indicating a bent rod and crank smack on piston skirt. Maybe more !