Engine noise diagnose please help!
#1
Engine noise diagnose please help!
Hey all I am trying to figure out my loud noise on my 4.2 2001 with 180k.
Here is a video so you can get an idea of the noise.
I am at my wits end. So far have...
Checked all spark plugs no issues and spark at all cylinders.
Engine started doing this and threw code for misfire on cylinder 2. As I've been running it doing tests it also threw misfire for 5 and 6.
Removed both valve covers. All springs good. No broken pieces at all and they actually looked really good. Turning over engine by hand all rockers move as expected.
Checked torque converted bolts all fine.
Removed belt no change.
Removed spark plug one at a time and no change.
Using stethoscope noise is loudest at the front of the intake manifold and egr tube. Not as loud on bottom end or transmission.
Noise is not on either side but more like the center of the engine. Oil pressure fine and coolant shows no loss.
As in the video sound goes away on deceleration.
Any ideas? What to test next? Going to do cylinder test but really don't expect any issues as no loss in fluids. Definitely feels like a loss of power.
Here is a video so you can get an idea of the noise.
Checked all spark plugs no issues and spark at all cylinders.
Engine started doing this and threw code for misfire on cylinder 2. As I've been running it doing tests it also threw misfire for 5 and 6.
Removed both valve covers. All springs good. No broken pieces at all and they actually looked really good. Turning over engine by hand all rockers move as expected.
Checked torque converted bolts all fine.
Removed belt no change.
Removed spark plug one at a time and no change.
Using stethoscope noise is loudest at the front of the intake manifold and egr tube. Not as loud on bottom end or transmission.
Noise is not on either side but more like the center of the engine. Oil pressure fine and coolant shows no loss.
As in the video sound goes away on deceleration.
Any ideas? What to test next? Going to do cylinder test but really don't expect any issues as no loss in fluids. Definitely feels like a loss of power.
#2
Member
180000 miles with that type of sound only equates to a replacement engine.
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#3
#4
Member
Really? Well just so you know I happen to have over 30 years experience in automotive repair and I am a Ford master tech certified in engine repair.
But by all means continue with your search for a more experienced opinion.
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#5
Time to pull the oil pan.
#6
That one never ends well.
#7
Ok then tell me how to figure it out? Not just put a bullet in it. How do I verify where the sound is coming from? Doesn't sound like a lower end issue or valve slap. I want to make sure this thing is for sure on the way out before I kill it.
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#8
Member
Nothing to figure out, the sound is a dead give away, could be a wrist pin or broken piston skirt or both, the only way to find out exactly is to take it out and pull it apart.
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#9
Here's why I am doing this. the original engine with about this many miles had a definte rod knock on every single rotation regardless. When I took that engine apart as a learning lesson I did not find one issue. Every single thing was tight and clean with no noticible wear. This is a junk yard engine I stuck in for last 2 years. So I'm really trying to rule out everything before I am left with what you are saying it is.
Can't a sloppy timing chain or gear cause this noise?
#10
One of the things that may happen is the crank goes out of round on a rod journal. U have to mic it to see one side is + .004 more than the other side. Usually it is near the top dead center area. Other thing is bent rod and crank bump on piston skirt. There are many areas of problems, pull a spark plug wire and if noise goes away it is rod and if it stay it is piston. U may simply have something on in the piston top like a piece of head gasket. I once had a screw from a carb throttle plate hammer into a piston. New carb fixed it In 20 miles. A lean burn can make some real nasty sounds but more of a small hammer in there at acceleration. I would carefully try to isolate the area and pull the head, then the pan or motor out. Can't see this as being cheap to fix, more like Jasper time.
Last edited by papa tiger; 01-13-2014 at 11:24 AM.