Ecoboost Oil Change Nightmares.
#11
$29 for the plug and $32 for the coupling from Summit Racing... That's a lot of money for a drain plug!
Then you've got to store the coupling somewhere when it not in use then hope it doesn't get lost...
I'm going with the Fumoto for half the cost and don't have to store any separate parts.
Then you've got to store the coupling somewhere when it not in use then hope it doesn't get lost...
I'm going with the Fumoto for half the cost and don't have to store any separate parts.
#12
Senior Member
Thanks everyone for suggestions, everyone has their own price point, I'm not knocking that - and I'm open to all sugestions, so keep me comming. Rigrat2011 solution looks like the highest quality and high flow. Cavpilot are you using the Fumoto? This was one of the results during my researching but I can't find one who's actually installed and used it for a change? If you have how is it, looks like exactly what I'm going for?
#13
hmm
Thanks everyone for suggestions, everyone has their own price point, I'm not knocking that - and I'm open to all sugestions, so keep me comming. Rigrat2011 solution looks like the highest quality and high flow. Cavpilot are you using the Fumoto? This was one of the results during my researching but I can't find one who's actually installed and used it for a change? If you have how is it, looks like exactly what I'm going for?
yeah i know it's expensive, but i'm a believer of "you get what you pay for"
not to mention, since i got it from summittracing, they've got a pretty good setup towards backing up their reputation.
#14
Junior Member
I've used the Fumoto on another car but not the truck yet...and probably won't use ANY drain valve after researching it some more.
I asked Fumoto which valve to use since their listings are kind of wonky when it comes to the EB. They said the 107N and the adapter for recessed plugs and it would still need the 90 degree adapter. That puts it awful close to the transmission lines. Plus it really is a straight shot getting the oil out of there cleanly, so all I'd be gaining is the ability to drain the oil without bringing a 15mm wrench.
The oil filter 'troughs' are where the real mess is made.
I asked Fumoto which valve to use since their listings are kind of wonky when it comes to the EB. They said the 107N and the adapter for recessed plugs and it would still need the 90 degree adapter. That puts it awful close to the transmission lines. Plus it really is a straight shot getting the oil out of there cleanly, so all I'd be gaining is the ability to drain the oil without bringing a 15mm wrench.
The oil filter 'troughs' are where the real mess is made.
#15
hmmm
I've used the Fumoto on another car but not the truck yet...and probably won't use ANY drain valve after researching it some more.
I asked Fumoto which valve to use since their listings are kind of wonky when it comes to the EB. They said the 107N and the adapter for recessed plugs and it would still need the 90 degree adapter. That puts it awful close to the transmission lines. Plus it really is a straight shot getting the oil out of there cleanly, so all I'd be gaining is the ability to drain the oil without bringing a 15mm wrench.
The oil filter 'troughs' are where the real mess is made.
I asked Fumoto which valve to use since their listings are kind of wonky when it comes to the EB. They said the 107N and the adapter for recessed plugs and it would still need the 90 degree adapter. That puts it awful close to the transmission lines. Plus it really is a straight shot getting the oil out of there cleanly, so all I'd be gaining is the ability to drain the oil without bringing a 15mm wrench.
The oil filter 'troughs' are where the real mess is made.
yeah... i kinda thought twice about not needing a special hose vs lack of wrench.
i'm opting for the drain hose because....
if you don't need a wrench to drain your oil pan, THEN NEITHER DOES ANYONE ELSE!!!!
in other words, i'd snap if someone knew i got a flip switch on my oil pan and decided to drain it on me. don't matter if they just let it drain on the ground, or if they put it in a catch can and take it away...
besides, i like the idea of capping it off like a pop bottle and unless you use your specific with fitting on the end... no one is gonna drain your pan on you.
#16
Senior Member
I've used the Fumoto on another car but not the truck yet...and probably won't use ANY drain valve after researching it some more.
I asked Fumoto which valve to use since their listings are kind of wonky when it comes to the EB. They said the 107N and the adapter for recessed plugs and it would still need the 90 degree adapter. That puts it awful close to the transmission lines. Plus it really is a straight shot getting the oil out of there cleanly, so all I'd be gaining is the ability to drain the oil without bringing a 15mm wrench.
The oil filter 'troughs' are where the real mess is made.
I asked Fumoto which valve to use since their listings are kind of wonky when it comes to the EB. They said the 107N and the adapter for recessed plugs and it would still need the 90 degree adapter. That puts it awful close to the transmission lines. Plus it really is a straight shot getting the oil out of there cleanly, so all I'd be gaining is the ability to drain the oil without bringing a 15mm wrench.
The oil filter 'troughs' are where the real mess is made.
#17
wait. what?
when I worked on these at my old dealership, after a few miserable attempts trying to drain the filter through the holes in the skid plate I found that even if the stars align perfectly and you do everything 100% correctly, there's like a 5% chance that the oil won't still just hit the top of the plate 4" away from the hole and just make a huge mess.
I found it was much easier to spend the 5 minutes removing the 4 bolts that hold the skid plate in place, and then tugging around the edges of that vinyl liner thing to remove the plastic tabs, and then replacing it all when I was done. I never had issues with the plastic tabs breaking or anything, since I know that's a common fear on modern vehicles.
as for that f*cking evil drain plug, after a few of them decided to drain onto the sway bar and just spray oil 8 feet out past the drain bucket, I started using a piece of a cardboard box to aim the oil down until the flow slowed down enough that it wouldn't hit the sway bar.
keep in mind this is coming from a Ford technician, lol there really is no good way to do these. hope this helps.
I found it was much easier to spend the 5 minutes removing the 4 bolts that hold the skid plate in place, and then tugging around the edges of that vinyl liner thing to remove the plastic tabs, and then replacing it all when I was done. I never had issues with the plastic tabs breaking or anything, since I know that's a common fear on modern vehicles.
as for that f*cking evil drain plug, after a few of them decided to drain onto the sway bar and just spray oil 8 feet out past the drain bucket, I started using a piece of a cardboard box to aim the oil down until the flow slowed down enough that it wouldn't hit the sway bar.
keep in mind this is coming from a Ford technician, lol there really is no good way to do these. hope this helps.
#18
when I worked on these at my old dealership, after a few miserable attempts trying to drain the filter through the holes in the skid plate I found that even if the stars align perfectly and you do everything 100% correctly, there's like a 5% chance that the oil won't still just hit the top of the plate 4" away from the hole and just make a huge mess.
I found it was much easier to spend the 5 minutes removing the 4 bolts that hold the skid plate in place, and then tugging around the edges of that vinyl liner thing to remove the plastic tabs, and then replacing it all when I was done. I never had issues with the plastic tabs breaking or anything, since I know that's a common fear on modern vehicles.
as for that f*cking evil drain plug, after a few of them decided to drain onto the sway bar and just spray oil 8 feet out past the drain bucket, I started using a piece of a cardboard box to aim the oil down until the flow slowed down enough that it wouldn't hit the sway bar.
keep in mind this is coming from a Ford technician, lol there really is no good way to do these. hope this helps.
I found it was much easier to spend the 5 minutes removing the 4 bolts that hold the skid plate in place, and then tugging around the edges of that vinyl liner thing to remove the plastic tabs, and then replacing it all when I was done. I never had issues with the plastic tabs breaking or anything, since I know that's a common fear on modern vehicles.
as for that f*cking evil drain plug, after a few of them decided to drain onto the sway bar and just spray oil 8 feet out past the drain bucket, I started using a piece of a cardboard box to aim the oil down until the flow slowed down enough that it wouldn't hit the sway bar.
keep in mind this is coming from a Ford technician, lol there really is no good way to do these. hope this helps.
Good to hear a tech has tHe same issues. Goes to show Ford didn't put much thought into changing the oil. This truly is my only gripe about this awesome truck.
#19
hmmm
when I worked on these at my old dealership, after a few miserable attempts trying to drain the filter through the holes in the skid plate I found that even if the stars align perfectly and you do everything 100% correctly, there's like a 5% chance that the oil won't still just hit the top of the plate 4" away from the hole and just make a huge mess.
I found it was much easier to spend the 5 minutes removing the 4 bolts that hold the skid plate in place, and then tugging around the edges of that vinyl liner thing to remove the plastic tabs, and then replacing it all when I was done. I never had issues with the plastic tabs breaking or anything, since I know that's a common fear on modern vehicles.
as for that f*cking evil drain plug, after a few of them decided to drain onto the sway bar and just spray oil 8 feet out past the drain bucket, I started using a piece of a cardboard box to aim the oil down until the flow slowed down enough that it wouldn't hit the sway bar.
keep in mind this is coming from a Ford technician, lol there really is no good way to do these. hope this helps.
I found it was much easier to spend the 5 minutes removing the 4 bolts that hold the skid plate in place, and then tugging around the edges of that vinyl liner thing to remove the plastic tabs, and then replacing it all when I was done. I never had issues with the plastic tabs breaking or anything, since I know that's a common fear on modern vehicles.
as for that f*cking evil drain plug, after a few of them decided to drain onto the sway bar and just spray oil 8 feet out past the drain bucket, I started using a piece of a cardboard box to aim the oil down until the flow slowed down enough that it wouldn't hit the sway bar.
keep in mind this is coming from a Ford technician, lol there really is no good way to do these. hope this helps.
i think if ford ever had a drain plug with a valve and a short hose that would drop down with a plug in the end of it. this would make your life easier, faster on oil changes (providing you pop the cap prior to draining the hot oil, but you know that lol) and when the truck is no longer on warranty, people could service their own trucks too. i'm not sure about other people, but when a person changes the oil on their truck, they feel a bit more sense of pride in their ride. in the end, people would feel better about owning a ford...
but then again... that could lower overall sales
so tell me, i've got a 2010... and when should i change the diffs fluid, and t-case.
#20
wait. what?
I have tons of cardboard, good (and cheap) idea! I've been looking for ways to use and get rid of it. LOL As for the oil filter, I'll try removing the skid plate next time, but I'm on a crawler and ramps, how heavy is it?
Good to hear a tech has tHe same issues. Goes to show Ford didn't put much thought into changing the oil. This truly is my only gripe about this awesome truck.
Good to hear a tech has tHe same issues. Goes to show Ford didn't put much thought into changing the oil. This truly is my only gripe about this awesome truck.
well, if you're having trouble with it man... then we're all lol.
i think if ford ever had a drain plug with a valve and a short hose that would drop down with a plug in the end of it. this would make your life easier, faster on oil changes (providing you pop the cap prior to draining the hot oil, but you know that lol) and when the truck is no longer on warranty, people could service their own trucks too. i'm not sure about other people, but when a person changes the oil on their truck, they feel a bit more sense of pride in their ride. in the end, people would feel better about owning a ford...
but then again... that could lower overall sales
so tell me, i've got a 2010... and when should i change the diffs fluid, and t-case.
i think if ford ever had a drain plug with a valve and a short hose that would drop down with a plug in the end of it. this would make your life easier, faster on oil changes (providing you pop the cap prior to draining the hot oil, but you know that lol) and when the truck is no longer on warranty, people could service their own trucks too. i'm not sure about other people, but when a person changes the oil on their truck, they feel a bit more sense of pride in their ride. in the end, people would feel better about owning a ford...
but then again... that could lower overall sales
so tell me, i've got a 2010... and when should i change the diffs fluid, and t-case.
I agree that it's a lot more satisfying doing the work yourself. but to be honest I paid another tech $20 and lunch to mount/balance the tires on my truck because they were so heavy (factory 20's), and I hate balancing with tape weights lol. and one of the fully certified techs there also paid me through the shop to install headers, exhaust, new tires, a short shifter, motor and subframe mounts as well as some other small things on his '06 GTO because he was convinced that every time he laid a finger on his car, something else broke lol.
as for maintenance, as long as you're comfortable with the intervals the manual recommends, that's your best bet. some guys insist on changing trans, TC, and diff fluids every 50k miles but 9 times out of 10 the fluid that comes out at that point is still good.