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I'm new to this forum, so I apologize beforehand if I break any forum rules. My brother in law recommended yall. But my issue is with my clutch on my manual 94 F 150 4.9 6cyl 2wd. If the engine is running it is near impossible to shift. 3rd and 4th are pain in *** but I can still get it in. 2nd gear I have to pump the clutch or catch it at the right speed. 1st and reverse is a no go.... only way to engage those gears is to shut my engine off. With engine off I have no issue shifting gears.... usually i start it in 1st or reverse just so I can get going. But if my foot is not on the brake it starts to slowly take off with clutch all the way down like an automatic would do when u let off the brake in drive? if I start in reverse it literally just takes off..... lastly the clutch sticks... sometimes it makes a popping/clicking noise. Then I have to lift the clutch back up with my toe.... Unfortunately I know jack about clutches.... If anyone has any tips on fixing this issue it would be a lot of help. Thank you.
It probably has air in the system. There is a clutch master cylinder reservoir on the driver's side firewall. Remove the cap, pull out the rubber baffle, and check to see if you have fluid. If your fluid is full, read the next paragraph. If it's empty, fill it about 2/3rds of the way with DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid, then bleed your clutch system. The M5OD clutch isn't hard to bleed, do a Google search if you don't know how. Now the question is; why did the fluid get low enough to air-lock the system? The slave cylinder on the M5OD is a known weak point, and is prone to leaking. To add insult to injury, it's inside the bell housing so you have to drop the transmission to replace it.
Antother possibility is the clutch master cylinder bushing that attaches the master cyl. shaft to the pedal assembly. Look up under the dash above the gas pedal where the master cyl. rod comes through the firewall. That shaft connects to the end of the pedal assembly on the "nipple". There is a plastic bushig that has little "fingers" that slips on the nipple, then the female end of the master cyl. shaft pops over it. These bushings break, and then the master cyl. is not actuated by the pedal. You can buy the bushing cheap at an auto parts store. If the end of the master cyl is washed out and won't hold the bushing, you'll need to replace the clutch master cylinder.
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(Sold) 2012 F-150 Screw 4X4, 5.0, XLT Plus, Off-Road package, 3.73/e-locking diff. A.R.E shell with extras. Ranch Hand grille guard. Tinted Windows. Line-X bed liner.
ya, well through some diagnosis i found a host of problems. The actual clutch, pressure plate and fly wheel are perfectly fine. But when looking through the peephole of the housing while looking at all the teeth I notice a wet look all over the slave cylinder fml >.<.... then also I went under the dash board and that bushing on the nipple had long ago broken. I had no idea being I bought the truck recently. It was one of the black bushings with the teeth which i have to get from dealer.... but driving around without that bushing and not aware of issue the "nipple" on the lever that goes into the female end of the push rod is all bent to hell and has a chunk of metal worn out. so I have to find a new one. have had very little luck. So i may have to get a lever welded. I tried putting a new bushing on it after market one and it was destoyed after one push on the clutch.... Sooooo I jimmy rigged it using a zip tie duck tape and a allen wrench hahaha till i can get that nipple welded. During that process I notice I had a small run of brake fluid coming from the master cylinder in the cab.... so ya whole system is shot....