Can I Swap to The Larger 36 Gallon Tank?
#1
Can I Swap to The Larger 36 Gallon Tank?
Hey all,
New member here, but no stranger to forums. So I didn't post in the intro section, I'm in a bit of a jam. Here's my dilemma:
I recently picked up a 2013 F150 XLT 4X2 5.0 V8. Some nice character decided it would be rad to drill a hole in my gas tank the other night to jack all of about $20 in gas, & now I'm dead in the water. But I did manage to stuff a 1/2-13 set screw with some stainless pipe tape in it so I could drive it home after I found out, which is working pretty good for a Band-Aid. No leaks so far!
Now, my truck has the 26 gallon tank in it, but that tank is on some crazy backorder at the dealer right now, and is ridiculously expensive.
So I got a line on the 36 gallon tank, which I understand is an option but only when you have the 6.2.
I checked everything I could to see if it would work, and it sounds as though the tank is just longer towards the front of the truck. The straps & hoses are the same, but I guess it does use a different fuel pump / sender.
So my question is, can I swap my 26 gallon tank out for the larger 36 gallon unit? And if so, will the fuel pump work properly with my engine & ECU? I imagine it could have a different flow rating for the fuel consumption of the 6.2 or something. If so, would anyone know if the fuel pump from my 26 gallon tank drop into the 36 and work properly?
Any info yall can provide would be great! I need to get this thing back on the road ASAP! Thanks in advance all!
New member here, but no stranger to forums. So I didn't post in the intro section, I'm in a bit of a jam. Here's my dilemma:
I recently picked up a 2013 F150 XLT 4X2 5.0 V8. Some nice character decided it would be rad to drill a hole in my gas tank the other night to jack all of about $20 in gas, & now I'm dead in the water. But I did manage to stuff a 1/2-13 set screw with some stainless pipe tape in it so I could drive it home after I found out, which is working pretty good for a Band-Aid. No leaks so far!
Now, my truck has the 26 gallon tank in it, but that tank is on some crazy backorder at the dealer right now, and is ridiculously expensive.
So I got a line on the 36 gallon tank, which I understand is an option but only when you have the 6.2.
I checked everything I could to see if it would work, and it sounds as though the tank is just longer towards the front of the truck. The straps & hoses are the same, but I guess it does use a different fuel pump / sender.
So my question is, can I swap my 26 gallon tank out for the larger 36 gallon unit? And if so, will the fuel pump work properly with my engine & ECU? I imagine it could have a different flow rating for the fuel consumption of the 6.2 or something. If so, would anyone know if the fuel pump from my 26 gallon tank drop into the 36 and work properly?
Any info yall can provide would be great! I need to get this thing back on the road ASAP! Thanks in advance all!
#2
Member
You should be able to use your pump and sender as well as any fuel system pressure sensors it may have.
No difference in pressure or flow between the engines.
.
No difference in pressure or flow between the engines.
.
#4
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Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Middle of nowhere, GA
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"The Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act makes it illegal for companies to void your warranty or deny coverage under the warranty simply because you used an aftermarket or recycled part."
Read up on the law here:
http://www.consumer.ftc.gov/articles...ne-maintenance
#6
OK good deal, thanks guys!
I picked up the tank, and it actually is the 26 gallon tank, BUT it came off a 2010. I checked all of the P/N's I could get to, and almost everything matches.
The biggest one that I believe puts me in good shape is the embossed P/N on the bottom of the tank. The first row is the FoMoCo P/N which matches. Then comes the resin designations for the plastic. I design blow molded plastic bottles for a living, so I'm familiar with the way plastic gas tanks are mfg'ed. They're molded on an extrusion blow molding machine, and those resin designations define the different resins used, where this tank is molded using co-extrusion, where multiple types of plastic are extruded in layers for their different properties to mold a part. The inner layer is a barrier for the fuel, then the outer layers are for shielding and durability. Anyhow, there's your plastics lesson for the day...
So then below that is a mold ID number which also matches.
Then there's the black box that bolts to the frame rails in front of the tank. *EDIT* I think it's the vapor canister assembly. *EDIT* The numbers on it are pretty close, but still different. The one he gave me reads "9L34 -9E857-," where mine reads "AL34 -9E857-". The second decal on it matches exactly with the exception of the mfg date. Y'all think I can keep mine in place? I'd like to if I could, since my truck only has 5k miles on it, & who knows what that 2010 had on it...
The strap ID numbers also match.
The only other thing that doesn't match so far is a green sticker on the back of the tank. The one he gave me reads "AL34", & mine reads "BL34". Any ideas what this could mean?
The heat shield and the filler neck also appear to be a match.
Everything appears exactly the same so far on the tank shape-wise and dimensionally, as far as I can see without pulling it out. I'll check the rest tomorrow when I go for it.
So if all looks good, once I get it out, I'm going to use my fuel pump and hoses and all that so I can have all the new stuff on there.
Please let me know if any of the guru's on here have knowledge on those P/N variations & what they could mean.
Thanks again guys, I really appreciate the help!
I picked up the tank, and it actually is the 26 gallon tank, BUT it came off a 2010. I checked all of the P/N's I could get to, and almost everything matches.
The biggest one that I believe puts me in good shape is the embossed P/N on the bottom of the tank. The first row is the FoMoCo P/N which matches. Then comes the resin designations for the plastic. I design blow molded plastic bottles for a living, so I'm familiar with the way plastic gas tanks are mfg'ed. They're molded on an extrusion blow molding machine, and those resin designations define the different resins used, where this tank is molded using co-extrusion, where multiple types of plastic are extruded in layers for their different properties to mold a part. The inner layer is a barrier for the fuel, then the outer layers are for shielding and durability. Anyhow, there's your plastics lesson for the day...
So then below that is a mold ID number which also matches.
Then there's the black box that bolts to the frame rails in front of the tank. *EDIT* I think it's the vapor canister assembly. *EDIT* The numbers on it are pretty close, but still different. The one he gave me reads "9L34 -9E857-," where mine reads "AL34 -9E857-". The second decal on it matches exactly with the exception of the mfg date. Y'all think I can keep mine in place? I'd like to if I could, since my truck only has 5k miles on it, & who knows what that 2010 had on it...
The strap ID numbers also match.
The only other thing that doesn't match so far is a green sticker on the back of the tank. The one he gave me reads "AL34", & mine reads "BL34". Any ideas what this could mean?
The heat shield and the filler neck also appear to be a match.
Everything appears exactly the same so far on the tank shape-wise and dimensionally, as far as I can see without pulling it out. I'll check the rest tomorrow when I go for it.
So if all looks good, once I get it out, I'm going to use my fuel pump and hoses and all that so I can have all the new stuff on there.
Please let me know if any of the guru's on here have knowledge on those P/N variations & what they could mean.
Thanks again guys, I really appreciate the help!
Last edited by DangerDog; 12-14-2013 at 03:58 PM.
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#8
Well, just got done with the swap. Everything went according to plan & it only took a couple of hours to knock it out.
Only thing I wasn't able to figure out was how to get the fuel sender out of my original tank to put it into the replacement I got since mine undoubtedly has fewer miles on it. Took the retainer ring off and lifted the sender out, but the lower diameter of the sender wouldn't allow me to pull it out of the tank. twisted it around all kind of different ways & tilted it to various positions, but couldn't get it to come out. Seems odd, as it had to go together somehow. But yeah, didn't want to risk breaking it & then have to try to figure out how to get the original one I have out of the tank to replace it, so I just decided to run it.
Anyway, thanks a bunch for your help on this guys, much appreciated!
Only thing I wasn't able to figure out was how to get the fuel sender out of my original tank to put it into the replacement I got since mine undoubtedly has fewer miles on it. Took the retainer ring off and lifted the sender out, but the lower diameter of the sender wouldn't allow me to pull it out of the tank. twisted it around all kind of different ways & tilted it to various positions, but couldn't get it to come out. Seems odd, as it had to go together somehow. But yeah, didn't want to risk breaking it & then have to try to figure out how to get the original one I have out of the tank to replace it, so I just decided to run it.
Anyway, thanks a bunch for your help on this guys, much appreciated!
#9
Member
#10
Sweet, thanks dude! Looks like they mightorta make an Engineering revision to the diameter in the tank opening there.
I think I'll try popping the one out of my damaged tank so I can keep it as a spare using that method.
Love how that description says "must be handled carefully" and "use of a screwdriver may be necessary to pry the f*cker outta there." Ha!
I think I'll try popping the one out of my damaged tank so I can keep it as a spare using that method.
Love how that description says "must be handled carefully" and "use of a screwdriver may be necessary to pry the f*cker outta there." Ha!