alternator wiring
10-25-2008, 01:16 AM
#1
Mr. sure I know how.....
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alternator wiring
Another problem to solve.
the truck:
1984 F150
4.9litre 300ci inline 6
2 wheel drive
4 speed manual
I removed the alternator because the regulator is fried. I went with the 2g alternator because of the built in regulator.
I downloaded the diagram on the net that shows how to wire it. I did not use the recommended 12 gauge wire or the 12 gauge inline fusible links. Instead I used bits and pieces of wire, some 12, some 14, some even smaller and regular square fuses like in the cab fuse box. I put 30amp and tried 20amp, but they just immedietely kept blowing. If I used the proper gauge wire and 12 gauge inline fusible links, would it make a difference?
Also, I can't find anywhere in Ottawa that carries fusible links, can I make them myself out of 12 gauge copper wire covered in 3 layers of shrink wrap, then just used butt connectors and crimp the ends? Also, can someone explain the green wire, I have it going to the wire that lights up a light in the dash when the alternator is not working, it is a red battery sign. I just use 16gauge wire for that one, should there be a fuse inline for that one too? Also in the picture, how do you take all three of the wires and attach them to go in the the inline fusible link, can I break it down to 2 fusible links? 1 red with the yellow and 1 just red and then have the 2 fusible links reatach themselves to the solenoid?
Chris
the truck:
1984 F150
4.9litre 300ci inline 6
2 wheel drive
4 speed manual
I removed the alternator because the regulator is fried. I went with the 2g alternator because of the built in regulator.
I downloaded the diagram on the net that shows how to wire it. I did not use the recommended 12 gauge wire or the 12 gauge inline fusible links. Instead I used bits and pieces of wire, some 12, some 14, some even smaller and regular square fuses like in the cab fuse box. I put 30amp and tried 20amp, but they just immedietely kept blowing. If I used the proper gauge wire and 12 gauge inline fusible links, would it make a difference?
Also, I can't find anywhere in Ottawa that carries fusible links, can I make them myself out of 12 gauge copper wire covered in 3 layers of shrink wrap, then just used butt connectors and crimp the ends? Also, can someone explain the green wire, I have it going to the wire that lights up a light in the dash when the alternator is not working, it is a red battery sign. I just use 16gauge wire for that one, should there be a fuse inline for that one too? Also in the picture, how do you take all three of the wires and attach them to go in the the inline fusible link, can I break it down to 2 fusible links? 1 red with the yellow and 1 just red and then have the 2 fusible links reatach themselves to the solenoid?
Chris
10-25-2008, 02:29 AM
#2
Either the 20 or 30 amp fuses can't handle all the juice flowing through the wires or you have something shorted out. When a fusible link is recommended it's usually because a fuse won't handle the voltage. You need to use the recommended 12 gauge wire because the battery is being charged through those wires. Fusible links are usually in the electrical/wire aisle of the parts store near all the bulbs and fuses. If you still can't find them then you can make your own. A fusible link is a piece of wire one gauge smaller than the wire you are protecting. In the event of a short the smaller gauge wire burns out instead of the whole harness catching fire. So for your 12 gauge wires you will put in a small piece of 14 gauge wire to act as the fusible link. You can twist the 3 wires together and then use a butt splice connector to crimp them to the fusible link. The fusible links available here already have the butt splice connector attached. If you are running the green wire from an existing hot in run source from the fuse box then it will already have a fuse to that circuit so adding one isn't necessary.
