BlueSmoke

I am new to ford. This is the first Ford anything I've drove. Always had Z28s nothing else. My truck was a very appreciated gift from my father n law. It has a new long block crate engine just installed but the accessories except the alternator was from original motor (150k). I am trying to learn the truck and diagnose the problems at the same time. With that being said, alot of this stuff is alien to me. So I guess here is the best place to start.

1. Awful powersteering pump whine, not just a whine it's not working unless I keep my rpm's up. The belt is tight and the pulley isn't next to resovoir so where is it? The fluid smells burnt. 150k miles. Possible fluid change? Bleeding maybe? Really open to suggestions as parking lots is a PAIN.

2. There is always a puddle of water underneath whether I run Ac/heat or not. I've tried to trace and the majority of it is coming off the O2 sensor? Condensation? Got me puzzled.

3. I think I need a battery or starter. The voltmeter gauge is setting in the middle with key on but bottoms out while cranking. And it's a slow crank. While running though it's 3/4 of the way up give or take. Runs fine. Just after it sits for a while it's back to the slow crank. So load test the battery before looking at starter?

4. Idling is eratic at times. Whenever I go from a gear to nuetral it takes forever it seems for the rpms to drop to about 1500. To me it seems like thats a fast idle. it bounces from there to around 1200 sometimes. Cleaning MAF sensor maybe?

5. I have to pull the fuse for the darn cargo light. When it rains/wet/damp it stays on. There is no button in the door jams to press in either. Inside lights run off that fuse and if I'm not mistaken I think the windows do too. Could I just take the bulb out? I'm skeptical that this may be the cause of problem number 3 but I always make sure they go off one way or the other. Anybody have any ideas?

Sorry for the length but I gotta ask somebody who knows the blue oval.

hout17

To kind of answer your powersteering pump question the pulley is directly on the powersteering pump so that block of metal the pulley is mounted to is your powersteering pump . Have you noticed any fluid leaks?

I highly recommend you get an auto repair manual like Haynes it will make things much easier for you and show you step by step and good pictures and it's not very expensive.

BlueSmoke

No it doesn't leak and fluid level has been at max level since I got it.

Ok the reservoir is on the drivers side on top of the motor. there is no pulley there?? Alternator is in the middle and the only pulley I see on the drivers side is on the bottom of the motor. Is that the actual pump?

BlueSmoke

I had my battery tested at advance and they said it was bad. Alt. is perfect and no grounds/pulls. Good I guess but everything in the truck works fine without engine running. The headlights even shine bright. Does this sound right?

kifels

yes it does, if they put a battery tester on it they are measure what is going on with the plates inside of the battery cells. you can have a bad battery and still have 12 volts.

as far as the power steering pump goes, Ford is notorious for having a whinny power steering pump. but you should not be loosing power, if the fluid smells burnt or bad it probably is. Replace the fluid. if the pump still if working the same way or the fluid becomes contaminated again, it may be time for a new power steering pump. also check to see what the fluid looks look like, if it frothy your pump may be air bound which will cause problems.

the puddle of water is normal while running the A/C the more humid it is out the more of a puddle you will have. it is only condensation. don’t worry about it.

the idling could be the mass air flow sensor, but it could also be the Idle air controller, or the throttle positioning sensor, hard to tell with out physically looking at the engine.

I have no idea about the light but I don’t mean to ask the obvious but is the light set to go on and off with the door?

BlueSmoke

Thanks for so much info.

Truck isn't wanting to start worse than before so battery will be bought payday.

I'm 6'2" 240lbs. and I strain pulling the steering wheel unless the rpms are around 2500. then its the whine. Here's an idiot question. How can I change the fluid. Disconnet the line from the resovoir and use gravity or is there a better/neater way?

The water is always there whether I use ac or not. I havn't noticed any green stuff so I'm too worried just more curious.

Can I use process of elimination with those sensors? How can I check them? voltmeter? If so what should they read?

Yeah the cargo light is set to come on with doors......I think. If you are talking about the dial next to the headlight switch then yes if there is something else I dont know what to look for.

kifels

as far as the fluid goes you can use a turkey baister to suck out and replace the fluid. is there any foam in the fluid now?

the sensors I really don’t know what the ranges are but you may be able to get them from a dealership. but I know you can put a multi-meter across them and there is a specific range they should work. but I’m not 100% sure.

BlueSmoke

fluid isnt frothy just smells really burnt/old 150k on it. Is that all the fluid minus what's in the lines? but the level never drops it's at the max line running or not. shouldn't it drop to a "warm" line?

Good old Bill

Follow the oil line from the P/S reservoir down to the pump. I don't have a 4.6 to be more accurate, it could just be a remotely located reservoir. Chances are the pump is bad,

There is a control on the side of the throttle body. Follow air cleaner tube to locate the T/B, on the side of it will be the TP sensor (to inform computor of throttle position). Also you will find the IAC (idle air control) it is a cylindrical shaped thing with two bolts securing to the T/B. Odds are you have to take off a plastic cover to find this stuff. Pull wire off and what is the engines idle? Should be very low, mine is at 600. If it is higher than that turn the screw to slow it down. The screw is to keep the plate from binding when shut, all engine idle speeds, fast or normal, are controlled by the IAC. The check engine lite will come on when the IAC is disconnected. You can erase the code and turn of the lite by unhooking the battery for a short period of time. 10 minutes.

BlueSmoke

Thanks for the info.

Replaced battery and good to go. I guess I'll find out if something is draining it now.

Next is that pump problem. That will be next payday.