'97 F150 - Edelbrock shock removal problem
02-09-2014, 02:44 AM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
'97 F150 - Edelbrock shock removal problem
Hello all,
I'm replacing my front shocks. The current, worn out units are Edelbrock. I have a problem because the shocks use a two nut check and jam nut system at the top of the shock tower to attach to the truck. The upper shock bushing washer/pressure disc seems to have become slightly indented, which means the lower nut is partially blocked from holding a wrench. When I put a wrench on the lower nut, it overlaps the top nut. I can't turn them independently.
My standard wrench is not thin enough to grab only the lower nut. I can't fit a second wrench or a socket on the top nut. I've tried turning the top nut with nothing holding the bottom nut but it results in the entire shock tower turning in place. I didn't see any way to stop the shock from turning.
I'm out of ideas. Maybe some kind of ultra thin wrench that can hold the lower nut? I've attached two pictures to illustrate my problem. Any ideas?
Thanks all,
TM
I'm replacing my front shocks. The current, worn out units are Edelbrock. I have a problem because the shocks use a two nut check and jam nut system at the top of the shock tower to attach to the truck. The upper shock bushing washer/pressure disc seems to have become slightly indented, which means the lower nut is partially blocked from holding a wrench. When I put a wrench on the lower nut, it overlaps the top nut. I can't turn them independently.
My standard wrench is not thin enough to grab only the lower nut. I can't fit a second wrench or a socket on the top nut. I've tried turning the top nut with nothing holding the bottom nut but it results in the entire shock tower turning in place. I didn't see any way to stop the shock from turning.
I'm out of ideas. Maybe some kind of ultra thin wrench that can hold the lower nut? I've attached two pictures to illustrate my problem. Any ideas?
Thanks all,
TM
02-09-2014, 02:46 AM
#2
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Hmm, looking at the photos again, I wonder if I could get a cutoff wheel in there somehow and sever both off. I'll have to take a look at the clearance in the morning.
Last edited by TruckingMan97; 02-09-2014 at 02:50 AM. Reason: typo
02-09-2014, 02:45 PM
#3
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Resolved! So nice what a night's sleep can do for thinking.
Flat file, vice grips, Kroil, adjustable crescent wrench, patience. Details to be posted.
Flat file, vice grips, Kroil, adjustable crescent wrench, patience. Details to be posted.
02-10-2014, 09:42 PM
#4
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Final update, for the record.
The top post of the shock tower actually has what should be a flat surface on each side. In my case it was a bit worn out and also smoothed from my bad attempts at Vice-Grip applications. I flat filed it so it was clean and straight. I then applied a liberal dose of Kroil penetrating oil. I then set the jaws of a nearly new crescent wrench on the post. It was a nice wrench that had no play in the spacing adjuster. I let the wrench turn to press against the frame, and then I was able to work the top nut with a box wrench. It came off after about 5 minutes of wrestling. I repeated for the lower nut, same story.
Success. Monroe shocks were used to replace. They have an attached nut on the lower side of the top post, under the bushings. Much easier to get a wrench on it while tightening the top nut. +1 for Monroe.
The top post of the shock tower actually has what should be a flat surface on each side. In my case it was a bit worn out and also smoothed from my bad attempts at Vice-Grip applications. I flat filed it so it was clean and straight. I then applied a liberal dose of Kroil penetrating oil. I then set the jaws of a nearly new crescent wrench on the post. It was a nice wrench that had no play in the spacing adjuster. I let the wrench turn to press against the frame, and then I was able to work the top nut with a box wrench. It came off after about 5 minutes of wrestling. I repeated for the lower nut, same story.
Success. Monroe shocks were used to replace. They have an attached nut on the lower side of the top post, under the bushings. Much easier to get a wrench on it while tightening the top nut. +1 for Monroe.