2011 F-150 Heated mirror & rear window defrost problems
#21
Hi all, I too just started having the same problem and out of warranty. I couldn't care less about the rear window defroster but I need the mirror defroster. has any of you garage engineer figured out a solution other then replacing the rear window?
Thanks
Thanks
#23
#25
I was hoping the spend some time this weekend to try and fix it but.... my work called.
I did manage to test the mirrors. With the engine running, I pressed the defrost button on the dash to activate the system. The light didn't come on but my laser thermometer showed that the defrost in the mirrors did come on. This morning while driving into work, my mirrors were fogging a bit. I pressed the defrost button and it worked on the mirrors but still no light on the dash button. Just an FYI, I confirmed while testing, that if the engine is not running (even with the key all the way forward) that the system does not come on.
Hopefully I'll have some time this week or this weekend to troubleshoot the rear window but at least now I know that the mirrors are working.
I did manage to test the mirrors. With the engine running, I pressed the defrost button on the dash to activate the system. The light didn't come on but my laser thermometer showed that the defrost in the mirrors did come on. This morning while driving into work, my mirrors were fogging a bit. I pressed the defrost button and it worked on the mirrors but still no light on the dash button. Just an FYI, I confirmed while testing, that if the engine is not running (even with the key all the way forward) that the system does not come on.
Hopefully I'll have some time this week or this weekend to troubleshoot the rear window but at least now I know that the mirrors are working.
#27
Last night I got around to cleaning the slider track and contacts and also reseated the contacts. But no change. I then verified the fuses again and they're fine. Got around to lowering the back part of the rear seat and removing the panel to expose the blue connector for the rear window defroster. The blue connector looks ok. I un-plugged it to see of the light on the dash button would come on since they seem to be installed in trucks that don't have the rear window defroster. And nope, no light on the dash button. Tonight I'll check if there's actual voltage coming out of the blue connector and see. Does anyone know how to verify the ohm? I have the option on my voltmeter but I've never done that.
#28
Hi all, I finally got around to do some more testing and looking around. I removed the tabs on each side and tested the ohms. I got .834. However, I'm not sure if this is good or not. I reconnected the tabs and then inspected and re-seated the blue connector. Turned on the truck and started the defrost (still no light that came on on the dash button). Mirrors started heating so I then check to see if there was voltage at the tabs and nothing. I then disconnected the blue connector and verified for voltage there and nothing. I'm now completely puzzled. On the blue connector there's 3 wires. One that is bigger then the 2 others and black (I'm guessing that this one feeds the voltage), then there's 2 smaller ones (black and white). I'm guessing that these 2 smaller ones are for a sensor of some sort since they go inside the window seals. Does anyone know if the ohms are right and know anything on these 2 smaller wires? And what else can I check?
#29
2013 4X4 SuperCrew
Resistance Check
Hi all, I finally got around to do some more testing and looking around. I removed the tabs on each side and tested the ohms. I got .834. However, I'm not sure if this is good or not. I reconnected the tabs and then inspected and re-seated the blue connector. Turned on the truck and started the defrost (still no light that came on on the dash button). Mirrors started heating so I then check to see if there was voltage at the tabs and nothing. I then disconnected the blue connector and verified for voltage there and nothing. I'm now completely puzzled. On the blue connector there's 3 wires. One that is bigger then the 2 others and black (I'm guessing that this one feeds the voltage), then there's 2 smaller ones (black and white). I'm guessing that these 2 smaller ones are for a sensor of some sort since they go inside the window seals. Does anyone know if the ohms are right and know anything on these 2 smaller wires? And what else can I check?
I have a 2013 F150SCrew Lariat. I only have two wires in the connector behind the passenger rear seat. When the slider is closed I get a reading of 338 ohms and with the slider open it is 7.85 MegaOhms. I'm not sure the 338 ohms is correct but, when I disconnected the two wires from the corner connections [spade connectors] and the slider closed it read 338 ohms. That tells me the switches in the slider are making contact whether they are mechanical or hall-effect [magnetic] I get a definite change of resistance.
I still get the rear window defroster light to come on for about 1/2 second. When I checked the voltage at the rear window connector it read only .007V.
The fuse [F32 in the Power Distribution Box] is good and so is the relay [4]. However, the relay doesn't pickup when you push the button on the dash. I will do some research on the relay, it may have an internal holding circuit that isn't working. I don't have the wiring diagram for the power distribution panel.
If anyone else has any measurements or suggestions it will be appreciated. Winter temps are starting here in the Midwest!!!!
Lastly, how did you know the mirror heaters turned on?