2011 F-150 Heated mirror & rear window defrost problems
10-10-2016, 10:17 AM
#121
2013 4X4 SuperCrew
dannofx4,
There are posts back in this thread that may be helpful: 29, 40-50, 56, 58, 68, and 72-86. You'll find references to the resistance readings taken.
I can't prove (just my theory) it but I think the control circuit may be the initial failure point IF it doesn't time out and turn off. On my new window, I turned it on and after 14 minutes it still didn't turn off, I manually switched it off. If true, then the extra/excessive heat being created can delaminate the grid connections resulting in open grid/window sections. Forgot to include that Feathermerchant reposted the schematic for the rear window with a slider. Also, I haven't heard of anyone having this trouble on the rear window defroster without the slider.
There are posts back in this thread that may be helpful: 29, 40-50, 56, 58, 68, and 72-86. You'll find references to the resistance readings taken.
I can't prove (just my theory) it but I think the control circuit may be the initial failure point IF it doesn't time out and turn off. On my new window, I turned it on and after 14 minutes it still didn't turn off, I manually switched it off. If true, then the extra/excessive heat being created can delaminate the grid connections resulting in open grid/window sections. Forgot to include that Feathermerchant reposted the schematic for the rear window with a slider. Also, I haven't heard of anyone having this trouble on the rear window defroster without the slider.
Last edited by rbailey3711; 10-10-2016 at 10:20 AM. Reason: added more information
10-11-2016, 02:06 PM
#122
Senior Member
So...an open circuit can mean a number of things.
Has anyone done a continuity check on all three windows? (left - center sliding - and right)?
I suspect (but could be wrong) that the majority of the continuity checks would and/or will come out as being okay.
The problem has been the contacts in the sliding rear window switch.
Therefore, that is the area which needs to be fixed, replacing the entire window is overkill especially at the prices being listed.
There HAS to be a better fix for this!
Has anyone done a continuity check on all three windows? (left - center sliding - and right)?
I suspect (but could be wrong) that the majority of the continuity checks would and/or will come out as being okay.
The problem has been the contacts in the sliding rear window switch.
Therefore, that is the area which needs to be fixed, replacing the entire window is overkill especially at the prices being listed.
There HAS to be a better fix for this!
Agreed there has to be a better fix. It's insane to replace the entire window. Even Safelite's $850 is way too much
10-11-2016, 07:21 PM
#123
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I've wondered about doing the above and then installing a resistor so less juice went to the defroster to hopefully lessen the chance of a window shattering, drive that seems fairly common.
10-11-2016, 09:04 PM
#124
Senior Member
To do it right, you would want to measure the voltage drop across the slider and then add the appropriate number of 20A diodes in series to the circuit. They would probably get hot. May require a heat sink.
I thin kit better if you could just solder some wire to the contacts with enough slack for the slider. It may be difficult to make it look good.
I thin kit better if you could just solder some wire to the contacts with enough slack for the slider. It may be difficult to make it look good.
10-11-2016, 09:14 PM
#125
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To do it right, you would want to measure the voltage drop across the slider and then add the appropriate number of 20A diodes in series to the circuit. They would probably get hot. May require a heat sink.
I thin kit better if you could just solder some wire to the contacts with enough slack for the slider. It may be difficult to make it look good.
I thin kit better if you could just solder some wire to the contacts with enough slack for the slider. It may be difficult to make it look good.
10-16-2016, 08:43 PM
#126
Mine works sometimes...which tells me its most likely the window contacts...therefore why change the whole window unit?
10-25-2016, 04:54 PM
#127
Senior Member
Well I finally talked to Ford. Nothing they can or will do. Pretty lame. They stated they had "no plans in place" for something out of warranty since there's no recall. Barely 27k miles and literally out of warranty since April this year.
Complete crap.
Complete crap.
10-26-2016, 07:32 AM
#128
.Welcome to out club
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Kyle Lopez (10-26-2016)
10-26-2016, 07:45 AM
#129
Funny thing...mine started working again. For the past week or so when I push button light stays on and all works.
That means that it has nothing to do with the window itself, its probably the contacts at the slider.
That means that it has nothing to do with the window itself, its probably the contacts at the slider.
10-26-2016, 03:13 PM
#130
Senior Member
I'm glad my side mirrors work for heating just fine, I need those more than a defroster, but it's still annoying as hell to have a barely 3 yr old truck and stuff breaking already. My last F150 lasted to 150k miles before ANYTHING had an issue.