2004 Triton gone to heck, PLEASE HELP
06-20-2015, 12:18 AM
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2004 Triton gone to heck, PLEASE HELP
Hello,
First time post and after some searching I didn't find anything with enough similarity to post on. So here I go:
Background on the truck:
I got this vehicle at 145k miles, from Salt Lake City, Utah. Somewhere I might not purchase from again now that I know how bad the vehicles take corrosive damage there. (I live in Washington) The vehicle is currently at 162k. It missed possibly two oil changes.
It is technically owned by my father, who has previously called all the shots on maintenance. However, as a more technically and mechanically inclined individual I am looking into fixing this beast. The truck had a dual exhaust installed by the prior owner, which then rusted off, one by one. Then came the muffler. It currently has about 4 feet of exhaust in front of the O2 sensors, which a muffler shop specialist advised should provide sufficient backflow pressure. At 152k the vehicle had a re-manufactured, Ford warrantied tranny put in. Now 10k miles later it exploded while being driven.
While describing the problem, my father told the technicians that it was a loud knocking noise. However as the driver that day, I would describe it as the engine seeming to shear itself from the inside out. It did not sound good and 30 minutes after it being parked I returned to the vehicle and noticed that it was leaking from the front, what seemed to be oil. Prior to this blow-up, the transmission had been slipping in between 2nd and 3rd, 3rd and 4th, and occasionally 4th and 5th gears (about 35 and 45 mph it would rev up and then kick over into the next gear). The dealership had suggested the spark plugs were the issue when it seems to me that this was most definitely the transmission.
As per my father's request we sent the truck to Fugate Ford dealer**** in Enumclaw, WA. They advised the following maintenance to the vehicle:
-Advise: Rear Differential Pinion Seal Replace
-Advise: Left Rear Axle Seal Replace
??? They advised that the truck was leaking oil from the rear, however 30 minutes does not seem long enough for a small puddle to appear under the front while nothing had been dripping from the rear, and prior no leakage had occurred enough to cause it to drop on the ground
-Advised: Spark plugs need replacing
Cause: Spark plug replacement, gap to spec, and inspect spark plug wire or coil on plug boot condition
Correction: Performed sparkplug replacement. Removed PCM and Bracket to access rear spark plugs on the pass side. Removed old plugs/installed new plugs w/ antisieze. Reinstalled coils and reassembeled vehicle. test drove vehicle and found a missfire. Checked power balance and found cylinder 5 and 8 are missfiring still. Recommend replacing both coils.
-Engine Sputtering really bad and check engine light is on advise
Cause: "Started vehicle and confirmed rough run and CEL on. Had to replace fuse for DLC to obtain communication with PCM. Retrieved DTC's P022, P0171, P0175, P0300, P0305, P0307, P0316. Ran power balance test: all cylinders on left bank are misfiring. Recommend replacing intake vct actuator before continuing diagnosis."
Correction: "Replaced Left Side VCT solenoid and retested: Engine running much smoother. Cleared DTC's and test drove vehicle. CEL did not come back on. Rechecked power balance and OK. No new DTC's present"
??? what is the DLC and would this fuse being blown explain that the check engine light never came on while the vehicle was being driven?
This cost $1000 and they now want to run a manual compression test ($400) to analyze further. This seems unreasonable to me to run a compression test if they know that two valves are misfiring won't it just show that again? The dealer refused to inspect the warrantied transmission before performing EVERYTHING that might be wrong with the vehicle. Seems unreasonable to me. I apologize for the lengthy post. Since I have time before I go back to school to finish my degree in Mech Engr I am contemplating going head first into the repair and trying to do as much as possible by myself. Advice would be greatly appreciated gentleman.
First time post and after some searching I didn't find anything with enough similarity to post on. So here I go:
Background on the truck:
I got this vehicle at 145k miles, from Salt Lake City, Utah. Somewhere I might not purchase from again now that I know how bad the vehicles take corrosive damage there. (I live in Washington) The vehicle is currently at 162k. It missed possibly two oil changes.
It is technically owned by my father, who has previously called all the shots on maintenance. However, as a more technically and mechanically inclined individual I am looking into fixing this beast. The truck had a dual exhaust installed by the prior owner, which then rusted off, one by one. Then came the muffler. It currently has about 4 feet of exhaust in front of the O2 sensors, which a muffler shop specialist advised should provide sufficient backflow pressure. At 152k the vehicle had a re-manufactured, Ford warrantied tranny put in. Now 10k miles later it exploded while being driven.While describing the problem, my father told the technicians that it was a loud knocking noise. However as the driver that day, I would describe it as the engine seeming to shear itself from the inside out. It did not sound good and 30 minutes after it being parked I returned to the vehicle and noticed that it was leaking from the front, what seemed to be oil. Prior to this blow-up, the transmission had been slipping in between 2nd and 3rd, 3rd and 4th, and occasionally 4th and 5th gears (about 35 and 45 mph it would rev up and then kick over into the next gear). The dealership had suggested the spark plugs were the issue when it seems to me that this was most definitely the transmission.
As per my father's request we sent the truck to Fugate Ford dealer**** in Enumclaw, WA. They advised the following maintenance to the vehicle:
-Advise: Rear Differential Pinion Seal Replace
-Advise: Left Rear Axle Seal Replace
??? They advised that the truck was leaking oil from the rear, however 30 minutes does not seem long enough for a small puddle to appear under the front while nothing had been dripping from the rear, and prior no leakage had occurred enough to cause it to drop on the ground
-Advised: Spark plugs need replacing
Cause: Spark plug replacement, gap to spec, and inspect spark plug wire or coil on plug boot condition
Correction: Performed sparkplug replacement. Removed PCM and Bracket to access rear spark plugs on the pass side. Removed old plugs/installed new plugs w/ antisieze. Reinstalled coils and reassembeled vehicle. test drove vehicle and found a missfire. Checked power balance and found cylinder 5 and 8 are missfiring still. Recommend replacing both coils.
-Engine Sputtering really bad and check engine light is on advise
Cause: "Started vehicle and confirmed rough run and CEL on. Had to replace fuse for DLC to obtain communication with PCM. Retrieved DTC's P022, P0171, P0175, P0300, P0305, P0307, P0316. Ran power balance test: all cylinders on left bank are misfiring. Recommend replacing intake vct actuator before continuing diagnosis."
Correction: "Replaced Left Side VCT solenoid and retested: Engine running much smoother. Cleared DTC's and test drove vehicle. CEL did not come back on. Rechecked power balance and OK. No new DTC's present"
??? what is the DLC and would this fuse being blown explain that the check engine light never came on while the vehicle was being driven?
This cost $1000 and they now want to run a manual compression test ($400) to analyze further. This seems unreasonable to me to run a compression test if they know that two valves are misfiring won't it just show that again? The dealer refused to inspect the warrantied transmission before performing EVERYTHING that might be wrong with the vehicle. Seems unreasonable to me. I apologize for the lengthy post. Since I have time before I go back to school to finish my degree in Mech Engr I am contemplating going head first into the repair and trying to do as much as possible by myself. Advice would be greatly appreciated gentleman.
06-23-2015, 03:08 PM
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I figured it was a pretty interesting situation, I have more refined questions now with studying up.
How much damage will it cause to the truck (in what areas) if I run the vehicle without compression in cylinders 5 and 8?
Is it legal for Fugate Ford to replace a fuse without my knowledge or consent?
How much damage will it cause to the truck (in what areas) if I run the vehicle without compression in cylinders 5 and 8?
Is it legal for Fugate Ford to replace a fuse without my knowledge or consent?
06-29-2015, 03:35 PM
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Did they charge to replace the fuse? If not then its fine. If so then they have a responsibility to advise and get consent before replacing and charging. When speaking of legality most think criminally, and no, it isnt criminally legal for them to change a fuse without consent. Civilly though, if brought to court, they would certainly lose.
What was the compression at in 5 and 8? Its unlikely that there was no compression without serious internal damage like melted pistons or "missing" valves. If the piston rings are bad then you would be getting a lot of raw fuel into your oil thinning it and corrupting its viscosity which will can damage all internal components. Improperly seating valves wont cause a lot of damage overall but can take a heavy toll on mpg.
What was the compression at in 5 and 8? Its unlikely that there was no compression without serious internal damage like melted pistons or "missing" valves. If the piston rings are bad then you would be getting a lot of raw fuel into your oil thinning it and corrupting its viscosity which will can damage all internal components. Improperly seating valves wont cause a lot of damage overall but can take a heavy toll on mpg.