AggieFord

I just installed all new Powerstop rotors and powerstop evolution pads onto all 4 wheels. I performed the break in according to Powerstops guidlines. When I am driving around 40 mph and brake to stop everthing feels fine. If I am above that say around 50 to 60 mph and I brake to stop it feels like my truck is jerking or bouncing. I dont feel any shakeing in steering wheel. It feels like a front to back tugging, nothing side to side. I did not have this problem before I changed the rotors and pads. I changed them out because I am getting a lift and bigger tires in a week. Anyone seen or heard of this problem.

Don T Ask

In some instances new rotors are not flat. It might be a good idea to take your new rotors to a brake shop and have them machined so that they don't have any high spots.

AggieFord

I'll look into that but it just doesn't feel the same as having a warped rotor. I have driven a vehicle with warped rotors before and it isn't the same wobble feeling. This feels like a tugging almost like my back brakes are hanging up and grabbing harder causing a bouncing feeling.

MPDG11

Might be whats called "Lining Material Transfer". It occurs when the metal of the rotor and the metal particles in the semi-metallic pads are too close to each other in hardness/actual materials. When you heat the brakes, the tiny metal particles actually get pulled out of the pad and get "welded" to the rotor.

Look at the rotors, do you see what looks like little balck freckles on them? Can you drag your fingernail across the surface of the rotor and have it get stuck??

OEM's spend ALOT of money making sure brake parts work right. Last time I checked Ford had 126 DIFFERENT recipes for pads, based on vehicle, size, weight, wheelbase, engine size, .....

Aftermarkets use one or two recipes, for every vehicle they make pads for.

If you drive a Ford, stick to "blue box Ford" parts or at least orange box Motorcraft parts.

If you machine the rotors, DO NOT just rinse them off with brake cleaner. Use a nylon scrub brush and hot water with dish washing det. to clean them. You need to wash out all the little particles of metal from the "grooves" cut into the rotors. It's like painting a car, gotta get all the crap off the surface or your "job" will turn out crappy.

yokev

He mentioned that he bought rotors and pads from the same company, i.e. pads that are actually MADE for the rotors.
One would hope there wouldn't be a rotor/pad incompatibility issue when you buy rotors and pads that are specifically made for each other, but who knows, eh...?
In his second(or third?) response, the OP mentioned that he's possibly feeling it more from the rear, so I'm thinking he possibly didn't clean off/scuff in the front OR rears properly before he installed 'em, -OR- he somehow managed to GLAZE the fronts while he was bedding the pads in.
OP-
I would pull the wheels back off and inspect the rotors and the pads again.
Clean your rotors again, with BRAKE CLEANER, and USE a scotch-brite pad on 'em(unless the instructions SPECIFICALLY say not to).
Pull your pads out as well, and look for contamination. You could've had some grease or worse, BRAKE FLUID(it happens) on the rotors, in which case the pads there wouldn't bed in. If brake fluid actually DID make its way onto the pads, throw 'em away and get another set.
You'll also wanna inspect the pads to make sure they didn't glaze over. This happens when TOO MUCH heat is introduced into them before they can bed in. It's usually caused by using your brakes too much while bedding them in, and/or applying too much pedal(panic stopping). They could look slightly 'burned' on the surface, or 'glazed' over. Since 'bedding' is transferring pad material to the rotors, if this was done properly, you should be able to see or at least feel pad material on the rotor surfaces.

rjsets

Try and check the piston in brake caliper might locking up

rjsets

Or to much air

Oberon

Sounds like a stuck parking brake to me. Did you use the parking brake when you did the maintenance? Do you ever use the parking brake?

Have someone engage and disengage the parking brake while you check the lever on the back of the brake for a full range of motion. If one or both is stuck you will have to disassemble the unit, clean and grease the rusted parts, then reassemble and adjust. That said you may just need to adjust the parking brake.

...or it could be something completely different.

RLXXI

Could also be the wheels lugnuts were not torqued properly warping the new rotors, gunk build up between the rotor hat face and the hub etc, seen that happen many times.

Sduce

Hey,

I think I know your problem because I had the same issue and even posted the issue just like you with no answers. This might seem odd but it worked for me.

I had the same bouncing i.e. hopping from the rear and it made me very frustrated. I went and installed all new pads and rotors all the way around and no luck.

At the same time I needed new ball joints < not the problem. When I installed these, I noticed my anti sway bar end bushings were shot. I drove with bouncing for another week until the parts came in. After installing the parts...no more bouncing. It never crossed my mind since bouncing was from the rear but the fix I did was in the front.

Hopefully this works for you because that bouncing sucks.

Steve