02 5.4l just replaced intake, now issues.
02-01-2016, 09:51 PM
#11
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@TNSean - we did a thorough manual check for vacuum leaks, and it was hooked up to a snap-on analyzer which didnt indicate any vacuum leaks.
At this point it runs pretty good except for the initial startup idle issue. It starts revs to about 1200 rpm then goes up to about 1600-1800 rpm for a few seconds then slowly falls back down to about 1000 for a few more seconds.. it eventually comes down to normal.
It does this whenever cold outside temps or what we have had this week 60's.
I guess i will get a napa IAC installed and see if that does anything.... not sure what else to try.
At this point it runs pretty good except for the initial startup idle issue. It starts revs to about 1200 rpm then goes up to about 1600-1800 rpm for a few seconds then slowly falls back down to about 1000 for a few more seconds.. it eventually comes down to normal.
It does this whenever cold outside temps or what we have had this week 60's.
I guess i will get a napa IAC installed and see if that does anything.... not sure what else to try.
02-02-2016, 08:14 AM
#12
@TNSean - we did a thorough manual check for vacuum leaks, and it was hooked up to a snap-on analyzer which didnt indicate any vacuum leaks. At this point it runs pretty good except for the initial startup idle issue. It starts revs to about 1200 rpm then goes up to about 1600-1800 rpm for a few seconds then slowly falls back down to about 1000 for a few more seconds.. it eventually comes down to normal. It does this whenever cold outside temps or what we have had this week 60's. I guess i will get a napa IAC installed and see if that does anything.... not sure what else to try.
04-01-2016, 01:28 PM
#13
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Another Update: Still having the weird idle issue. I got a Motorcraft IAC installed and it made no difference.
I think I will go ahead and get the pcv hose kit and install even tho it doesn't seem to be leaking. I think I will pull off the throttle body again and clean it again.
Very weird to me that using the heat / defrost / floor all cause this exaggerated idle wavering deal....... frustrating!
I think I will go ahead and get the pcv hose kit and install even tho it doesn't seem to be leaking. I think I will pull off the throttle body again and clean it again.
Very weird to me that using the heat / defrost / floor all cause this exaggerated idle wavering deal....... frustrating!
04-01-2016, 01:38 PM
#14
Cycle For Fun and Health
Here's a couple of procedures that might be helpful to you.
No cost - just a little time to do:
Now that you've cleaned your TB do a TPS reset, it won't hurt a thing and may improve your Throttle response also.
Put Key in the ignition and turn to the ON position, remove the drivers side floor mat, don't start motor, let the bells and chimes do their thing and when they finish push the peddle to the floor and then release the peddle to come back up, turn key to the OFF position, now repeat two more times.
After doing this start the motor and go for a ride and see if it's as good as new!
PS. don't start the motor and floor it, just drive it like you want to keep it!
----------------------------
This is used for clearing codes by disconnecting the battery cable for 15 mins. Be sure there is no cell phone chargers/lap top/anything like that plugged in. While cables are disconneted I always cycle the key. And turn the head lights on. Then follow it up by the relearn process.
Battery relearn
Because your vehicle’s engine is electronically controlled by a computer,
some control conditions are maintained by power from the battery. When
the battery is disconnected or a new battery is installed, the engine must
relearn its idle and fuel trim strategy for optimum driveability and
performance. Flexible fuel vehicles (FFV) must also relearn the ethanol
content of the fuel for optimum driveability and performance. To begin
this process:
1. With the vehicle at a complete stop, set the parking brake.
2. Put the gearshift in P (Park), turn off all accessories and start the
engine.
3. Run the engine until it reaches normal operating temperature.
4. Allow the engine to idle for at least one minute.
5. Turn the A/C on and allow the engine to idle for at least one minute.
6. Release the parking brake. With your foot on the brake pedal and with
the A/C on, put the vehicle in D (Drive) and allow the engine to idle for
at least one minute.
7. Drive the vehicle to complete the relearning process.
• The vehicle may need to be driven 10 miles (16 km) or more to
relearn the idle and fuel trim strategy along with the ethanol content
for flexible fuel vehicles.
• If you do not allow the engine to relearn its idle trim, the idle quality of your vehicle may be adversely affected until the idle trim is
eventually relearned.
• For flexible fuel vehicles, if you are operating on E85, you may
experience poor starts or an inability to start the engine and
driveability problems until the fuel trim and ethanol content have been
relearned.
No cost - just a little time to do:
Now that you've cleaned your TB do a TPS reset, it won't hurt a thing and may improve your Throttle response also.
Put Key in the ignition and turn to the ON position, remove the drivers side floor mat, don't start motor, let the bells and chimes do their thing and when they finish push the peddle to the floor and then release the peddle to come back up, turn key to the OFF position, now repeat two more times.
After doing this start the motor and go for a ride and see if it's as good as new!
PS. don't start the motor and floor it, just drive it like you want to keep it!
----------------------------
This is used for clearing codes by disconnecting the battery cable for 15 mins. Be sure there is no cell phone chargers/lap top/anything like that plugged in. While cables are disconneted I always cycle the key. And turn the head lights on. Then follow it up by the relearn process.
Battery relearn
Because your vehicle’s engine is electronically controlled by a computer,
some control conditions are maintained by power from the battery. When
the battery is disconnected or a new battery is installed, the engine must
relearn its idle and fuel trim strategy for optimum driveability and
performance. Flexible fuel vehicles (FFV) must also relearn the ethanol
content of the fuel for optimum driveability and performance. To begin
this process:
1. With the vehicle at a complete stop, set the parking brake.
2. Put the gearshift in P (Park), turn off all accessories and start the
engine.
3. Run the engine until it reaches normal operating temperature.
4. Allow the engine to idle for at least one minute.
5. Turn the A/C on and allow the engine to idle for at least one minute.
6. Release the parking brake. With your foot on the brake pedal and with
the A/C on, put the vehicle in D (Drive) and allow the engine to idle for
at least one minute.
7. Drive the vehicle to complete the relearning process.
• The vehicle may need to be driven 10 miles (16 km) or more to
relearn the idle and fuel trim strategy along with the ethanol content
for flexible fuel vehicles.
• If you do not allow the engine to relearn its idle trim, the idle quality of your vehicle may be adversely affected until the idle trim is
eventually relearned.
• For flexible fuel vehicles, if you are operating on E85, you may
experience poor starts or an inability to start the engine and
driveability problems until the fuel trim and ethanol content have been
relearned.
04-12-2016, 03:49 PM
#15
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Well, with great hope I tried all those suggestions. didn't help.
With cooler weather moving back in to Indiana and my running of the defroster I was reminded how bad the idle hunting is...... I have heard about a/c affecting idle....so guess I could check that and charge if necessary. frustration continues!
With cooler weather moving back in to Indiana and my running of the defroster I was reminded how bad the idle hunting is...... I have heard about a/c affecting idle....so guess I could check that and charge if necessary. frustration continues!
04-17-2016, 03:25 AM
#16
Senior Member
I hear ya brother
I've got an '01 F150 SC 5.4L that sounds like your truck's brother. For the longest time last summer/fall the idle would float between 600-1000 rpm. Cold, hot it didn't matter. Then it started getting worse, where it felt like the throttle was stuck. It would drop down, a little, when the AC was on, but if I shut it off, it would run up to about 2000 rpm.
Changed out the IAC, TPS, that didn't work. Talked with several people and the majority said look at the EGR system. Some said go ahead and clean the throttle body. Now the '01 has a Teflon seal on the butterfly, and if you clean it, it usually screws up the seal, and kills the throttle body. Cleaned it and I thought I had it fixed. WRONG... Tried to drive it and it barely ran at all. Picked up a NEW throttle body and changed it out. Settled the idle problem out fairly quickly, but it still didn't feel right.
It idled, but still had a tendency to jump up to 1200 rpm or so. That's not fun pulling in a parking space heading to the concrete post and the truck jump. Thinking along the EGR route, I bit the bullet, since it was the originals with 15 years on it. Changed the EGR tube, valve, sensor and the DPFE sensor lines. It's been running a lot better since I did that. Luckily I kept the old parts because after pulling our travel trailer last weekend, I had a SES light come on. The code was P1401 DPFE high voltage current, so I wound up putting the old sensor back in, yesterday as a matter of fact. I've gotten the SES light reset, and it seems to have fixed it. I still think there might be some little vacuum leaks in the engine bay, since some of the lines look a little sketchy.
The next step I'm going to do is get a big assortment of vacuum hose and fittings, and change everything out in the compartment one line/system at a time.
Changed out the IAC, TPS, that didn't work. Talked with several people and the majority said look at the EGR system. Some said go ahead and clean the throttle body. Now the '01 has a Teflon seal on the butterfly, and if you clean it, it usually screws up the seal, and kills the throttle body. Cleaned it and I thought I had it fixed. WRONG... Tried to drive it and it barely ran at all. Picked up a NEW throttle body and changed it out. Settled the idle problem out fairly quickly, but it still didn't feel right.
It idled, but still had a tendency to jump up to 1200 rpm or so. That's not fun pulling in a parking space heading to the concrete post and the truck jump. Thinking along the EGR route, I bit the bullet, since it was the originals with 15 years on it. Changed the EGR tube, valve, sensor and the DPFE sensor lines. It's been running a lot better since I did that. Luckily I kept the old parts because after pulling our travel trailer last weekend, I had a SES light come on. The code was P1401 DPFE high voltage current, so I wound up putting the old sensor back in, yesterday as a matter of fact. I've gotten the SES light reset, and it seems to have fixed it. I still think there might be some little vacuum leaks in the engine bay, since some of the lines look a little sketchy.
The next step I'm going to do is get a big assortment of vacuum hose and fittings, and change everything out in the compartment one line/system at a time.