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Custom Fabrication DepartmentThis is the section to discuss any and all custom work that you've done or had made that may not be available on the retail market.
Keep in mind that this ^^^^^ link is for a single light bar application. If you have a "pair" of lights, you can get a similar relay harness too... there just 2 more additional wires that go to the lights, but everything else is still the same. And same "rules" apply with that schematic.
(Any higher quality light kits from Rigid, PIAA, KC, etc .... will already have a relay harness in their light kit. .... But if you purchase a single light bar, or 2 cube lights, for example, ...the relay still does the same function).
It takes the load off of the wiring & switch- PLUS allows you to use a "trigger wire" to allow your switch & lights to function as you choose, regardless if you want to run the "trigger wire" directly from your battery, or tap into your high beam wire.
I have my Rigid cubes (between the license plate) and the outer PIAA lights running off my high beams.... and the inner PIAA is running off my park lamp circuit.
As soon as I turn on my high beams (& as long as I have my switch in the ON position), they come on..... as soon as I turn back to my low beams.... they will automatically turn off.
Since I have my PIAA fog lights tapped into my park lamp circuit, I am able to always keep them on as long as I have my switch on. Switch off= no signal & nothing works.
My bed lights are on a constant "hot" from my fuse panel on the PASS side so I can turn them on ANYTIME I want to from my switch-just my preference to do so.
The relay not only helps you control WHEN you want your lights/accessory on.... but it also helps take the power draw from your wiring & switch.
If you have any questions, or hard to interpret my wording, feel free to email me directly.
Email: lethalweapon09@yahoo.com
Last edited by Lethal Weapon; 11-27-2016 at 11:29 AM.
You may want to get a friend or someone who can help you so you don't have any issues and help your wire it up correctly. We're here to help. But it's quite simple. Here's an eBay link and inexpensive relay harness that also works well: https://www.ebay.com/itm/281675956758 (Any higher quality light kits from Rigid, PIAA, KC, etc .... will already have a relay harness in their light kit. .... But if you purchase a single light bar, or 2 cube lights, for example, ...the relay still does the same function). It takes the load off of the wiring & switch- PLUS allows you to use a "trigger wire" to allow your switch & lights to function as you choose, regardless if you want to run the "trigger wire" directly from your battery, or tap into your high beam wire. I have my Rigid cubes (between the license plate) and the outer PIAA lights running off my high beams.... and the inner PIAA is running off my park lamp circuit. As soon as I turn on my high beams (& as long as I have my switch in the ON position), they come on..... as soon as I turn back to my low beams.... they will automatically turn off. Since I have my PIAA fog lights tapped into my park lamp circuit, I am able to always keep them on as long as I have my switch on. Switch off= no signal & nothing works. My bed lights are on a constant "hot" from my fuse panel on the PASS side so I can turn them on ANYTIME I want to from my switch-just my preference to do so. The relay not only helps you control WHEN you want your lights/accessory on.... but it also helps take the power draw from your wiring & switch. If you have any questions, or hard to interpret my wording, feel free to email me directly. Email: lethalweapon09@yahoo.com
You may want to get a friend or someone who can help you so you don't have any issues and help your wire it up correctly. We're here to help. But it's quite simple. Here's an eBay link and inexpensive relay harness that also works well: https://www.ebay.com/itm/281675956758 (Any higher quality light kits from Rigid, PIAA, KC, etc .... will already have a relay harness in their light kit. .... But if you purchase a single light bar, or 2 cube lights, for example, ...the relay still does the same function). It takes the load off of the wiring & switch- PLUS allows you to use a "trigger wire" to allow your switch & lights to function as you choose, regardless if you want to run the "trigger wire" directly from your battery, or tap into your high beam wire. I have my Rigid cubes (between the license plate) and the outer PIAA lights running off my high beams.... and the inner PIAA is running off my park lamp circuit. As soon as I turn on my high beams (& as long as I have my switch in the ON position), they come on..... as soon as I turn back to my low beams.... they will automatically turn off. Since I have my PIAA fog lights tapped into my park lamp circuit, I am able to always keep them on as long as I have my switch on. Switch off= no signal & nothing works. My bed lights are on a constant "hot" from my fuse panel on the PASS side so I can turn them on ANYTIME I want to from my switch-just my preference to do so. The relay not only helps you control WHEN you want your lights/accessory on.... but it also helps take the power draw from your wiring & switch. If you have any questions, or hard to interpret my wording, feel free to email me directly. Email: lethalweapon09@yahoo.com
Will this harness work? It would be the same brand as my light bar
Absolutely!
Pretty much any brand will work and it also looks like it has a 40 amp relay, so you're good!
Now you will also have a switch to turn it on & off - if you choose to do so....
Or .... always leave the switch on, and the "trigger wire" which will be 1 of the 3 wires from the switch.... you will need to look to see which one is the "power in".... then you will cut that wire about an inch from the relay (tape up that inch wire good because it will be a live 12v wire),....then make that NEW loose wire from the switch to make it longer & tap into your high beam wire down at the headlight. (You'll need a test light).
You'll need to know the correct wire to cut! One will be ground, power in & power out....
You need to cut the power IN wire.
So instead of the trigger wire coming direct from the battery & ALWAYS "hot".... you are now making your trigger wire connect/splice into your high beam "hot" wire.
I had to do that same procedure on my Rigid lights relay wiring ...but my PIAA lights relay harness were already designed this way.
Any questions, email me... Ill give you my number & I can call you & step you through it.
Don't feel intimidated, it's not that bad ....but get that relay harness & may need a little extra wire to extend down and tap into your high beam wire & you're good to go!
Last edited by Lethal Weapon; 11-27-2016 at 10:32 PM.
Where did you get that KustomFX switchpanel? Got a link?
Hi,
Here's the actual sales thread in the classified section for the 2009-2014 year F-150's: https://www.f150forum.com/f59/custom...17038/index34/
Lots of pages and info! But email me with any questions you may have.
I also make them for the 2015-2017 year F-150's now, also.
I use a dual position switch. High beam feed into one side, straight power into the other side, then the middle contact to the relay which feeds the light. This way, I can activate the light either with the high beams or manually on if i need it by itself or with the low beams, plus turn it completely off.
11-26-2016, 07:07 PM
