Hints, Tips and Tricks
#1021
Senior Member
Yes I don't remember if its a menu option or not but the process is in the manual under auto lock.
#1023
Senior Member
Box Link
I have straps with the e-track ends. They are nice and secure, and hooks don't fall out when you don't want them to. I also mounted a double e-track plate up front. If any of you have moved a fridge, or a large item, you will understand this. I am going to put single e-track mounts on either side of my tailgate to be able to tie lumber down with the tailgate down. They are small, and don't get tin the way of closing the tailgate.
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#1024
Senior Member
I have straps with the e-track ends. They are nice and secure, and hooks don't fall out when you don't want them to. I also mounted a double e-track plate up front. If any of you have moved a fridge, or a large item, you will understand this. I am going to put single e-track mounts on either side of my tailgate to be able to tie lumber down with the tailgate down. They are small, and don't get tin the way of closing the tailgate.
#1025
My contribution
Tired of the Switchblade Key (yes, I know, it's a lowly XLT '16 SCrew) always opening up because the release button is too exposed and easy to hit? (same FORD engineer who designed the little tiny release for the driver side rear seat fold down, must of been trying to make up for that sin with a giant exposed button on the key fob)
Get a 1/4" ID O-ring from the plumbing section of your LHS, and a tube of Super Glue. Pop the top half of the fob off (be careful not to press the button on the switchblade while the top is off. That's an hour I'll never get back) CAREFULLY glue the o-ring centered over the hole. When dry, reassemble. Now you have a guard around a semi-recessed button, as it should have been designed. Takes moderate pressure to release, doesn't self open on the keychain or in the pocket.
Get a 1/4" ID O-ring from the plumbing section of your LHS, and a tube of Super Glue. Pop the top half of the fob off (be careful not to press the button on the switchblade while the top is off. That's an hour I'll never get back) CAREFULLY glue the o-ring centered over the hole. When dry, reassemble. Now you have a guard around a semi-recessed button, as it should have been designed. Takes moderate pressure to release, doesn't self open on the keychain or in the pocket.
Last edited by Elmote; 08-23-2016 at 03:03 PM.
The following users liked this post:
Lonewolfjustin (01-17-2017)
#1026
Senior Member
Tired of the Switchblade Key (yes, I know, it's a lowly XLT '16 SCrew) always opening up because the release button is too exposed and easy to hit? (same FORD engineer who designed the little tiny release for the driver side rear seat fold down, must of been trying to make up for that sin with a giant exposed button on the key fob)
Get a 1/4" ID O-ring from the plumbing section of your LHS, and a tube of Super Glue. Pop the top half of the fob off (be careful not to press the button on the switchblade while the top is off. That's an hour I'll never get back) CAREFULLY glue the o-ring centered over the hole. When dry, reassemble. Now you have a guard around a semi-recessed button, as it should have been designed. Takes moderate pressure to release, doesn't self open on the keychain or in the pocket.
Get a 1/4" ID O-ring from the plumbing section of your LHS, and a tube of Super Glue. Pop the top half of the fob off (be careful not to press the button on the switchblade while the top is off. That's an hour I'll never get back) CAREFULLY glue the o-ring centered over the hole. When dry, reassemble. Now you have a guard around a semi-recessed button, as it should have been designed. Takes moderate pressure to release, doesn't self open on the keychain or in the pocket.
#1027
Member
EDIT: I missed the part you are leaving the truck running... I did not try that. Well easy to try leave the window open and truck running and lock the truck with the keypad wait a few and then come back and stick you hand in the window and see if the alarm is set. If so we should be good doing this... BUT... I started a thread long long ago and did alot of testing with the help of others on this forum on this question. If I remember correctly I left the window open to simulate me breaking glass. Left a keyless fob in the truck with batteries. Got out and locked truck. I di remember you have to wait so long before the truck is armed. I then proceeded to reach my hand and arm into the truck those motion detectors are very quick I did not get maybe a few inches in and the horn flashing lights and all that goes off. I try getting in the truck and hit the start button no dice. I had to go get another keyfob from in the house and then deactivate the alarm and then start the truck. What I do to key for a spare is I have a keyless keyfob locked up and hidden in the truck. NO BATTERIES in it. Truck does not know it's there. But if needed you can use you keypad on the door get in and then place the key again with no batteries in that spot you all know about and start the truck. I have three keyless keyfobs got the extra on ebay for $40 and programmed myself.
#1028
Senior Member
Little late to the party, and it might have been mentioned, but the hole is for the pin on the bed extender when its flipped out over the tailgate.
#1029
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