View Poll Results: Cooling Seats - Are Your Seat Backs Working Properly?
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Cooling Seats issue and TSB feedback
02-22-2017, 11:13 PM
#4801
Sent you a PM. I will get you fixed up.
02-23-2017, 08:11 PM
#4802
So I go to the dealer for the 1st oil change on my 16 Lariat and ask if them to check the cooling on the seats. They where befuddled and said they would check. When I picked it up they said the seat was functioning as designed since the air was only coming out of the bottom, like 4 other trucks on the lot. Holy mackerel, why would you only ac the bottom and not the back? So clueless. I guess they where told this by Ford so they can dissuade any unhappy customers. Also my pocket in the back of the seat is on fire hot after 20 minutes.
Will have to buy this mod before summer.
Will have to buy this mod before summer.
02-23-2017, 08:15 PM
#4803
Senior Member
So I go to the dealer for the 1st oil change on my 16 Lariat and ask if them to check the cooling on the seats. They where befuddled and said they would check. When I picked it up they said the seat was functioning as designed since the air was only coming out of the bottom, like 4 other trucks on the lot. Holy mackerel, why would you only ac the bottom and not the back? So clueless. I guess they where told this by Ford so they can dissuade any unhappy customers. Also my pocket in the back of the seat is on fire hot after 20 minutes.
Will have to buy this mod before summer.
Will have to buy this mod before summer.
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digitaltrucker (02-23-2017)
02-23-2017, 10:46 PM
#4804
Since the weather has started to warm up for a few days and using the video as a guide which made it a whole lot easier, I finally installed the V3 kit. I will say the hardest part was getting the blue tubing to form, even with using a heat gun and trying to get it through the metal opening on the seat frame. I will admit I did go probably a little overboard wrapping the tubing along with the exhaust and Intake parts with the aluminum tape to help keep the temps down inside the cavity. While it's only been a few days using them I can say that the difference is night and day for both the ac and the heat. I would like to thank Tim and company for finding a legitimate solution for our seats!!
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SeatGuru (02-24-2017)
02-24-2017, 08:53 AM
#4805
I will say the hardest part was getting the blue tubing to form, even with using a heat gun and trying to get it through the metal opening on the seat frame......
....While it's only been a few days using them I can say that the difference is night and day for both the ac and the heat.
....While it's only been a few days using them I can say that the difference is night and day for both the ac and the heat.
Thanks again for the kind words.
02-24-2017, 10:40 PM
#4806
Received the V4 kit today and completed the install. Passenger seat went smooth with no issues. My drivers side was a bit more complicated as I discovered the dealer had already messed up the left side zipper when they fixed the seat massage a few months back! I wasn't able to get the zipper opened very far on the left but with the right side opened fully I was still able to complete the V4 install! Tested the cooling/heating out and was amazed at the difference the upgrade made. I previously had a 2011 Lariat in which the cooling was still far superior. Shame on Ford for their cheap design in their overpriced trucks! Thanks so much for your efforts and help in making an improvement Tim!
The following 3 users liked this post by 2015F150KR:
02-25-2017, 09:55 AM
#4807
OK guys I will be taking a vacation to the sunny Florida so I wont be around much to answer questions for the next week. So glad you all are having good luck with the kits now if only I could have good luck with 3D printers... Darn things are high maintenance.
-Tim
-Tim
02-25-2017, 01:40 PM
#4809
Now that I have done the install, a couple of things.
Install the longer tube on the exhaust.
For the J-Channel, wedge a small screw driver between the connection points and pry to start. The rest will simply peel away.
If you are going to install the intake (see further down,) use 2 small screw drivers. Insert one small screw driver under the lip of the plate that will be popped off right next to one of the 4 tabs. Use the other screw driver to depress the tab (or use your finger.) Once the tab is depressed turn the first screwdriver 90 degrees to disconnect the plate from that tab. Once that is done, use your finger to depress an adjacent tab, grab the plate and it will pop right off.
Rather than worry about a screw driver to undo the connection holders under the seat, just grab them and pull down with moderate force.
Route the exhaust through the hole described in the video. If you do not go through the hole, the exhaust will NOT exhaust into the cabin. It will exhaust directly into the fabric that holds the J-channel. This is not good. This will take working of the tube to get it to go through that hole so be careful of your hands and take your time.
After the install of the exhaust, I do not think there is a need to install the intake if you have Ford's TSB. The supplied intake does not make a good seal at all and the sock is a far better implementation. The cost of the kit can also therefore be cut significantly. What matters is relocating the exhaust gas.
For $200, the parts are quite cheap. The least that could be done is for the owner to clean up the burrs and ensure the screws actually go through exhaust ports. I had to drill/clean mine out in order for the screws to go through.
I used aluminum tape over the tube/part connection. This ought to be supplied.
Finally, I cut a pair of pantyhose and zip tied a small section over the intake tubing - no sense of having crap sucked into the system unnecessarily.
Install the longer tube on the exhaust.
For the J-Channel, wedge a small screw driver between the connection points and pry to start. The rest will simply peel away.
If you are going to install the intake (see further down,) use 2 small screw drivers. Insert one small screw driver under the lip of the plate that will be popped off right next to one of the 4 tabs. Use the other screw driver to depress the tab (or use your finger.) Once the tab is depressed turn the first screwdriver 90 degrees to disconnect the plate from that tab. Once that is done, use your finger to depress an adjacent tab, grab the plate and it will pop right off.
Rather than worry about a screw driver to undo the connection holders under the seat, just grab them and pull down with moderate force.
Route the exhaust through the hole described in the video. If you do not go through the hole, the exhaust will NOT exhaust into the cabin. It will exhaust directly into the fabric that holds the J-channel. This is not good. This will take working of the tube to get it to go through that hole so be careful of your hands and take your time.
After the install of the exhaust, I do not think there is a need to install the intake if you have Ford's TSB. The supplied intake does not make a good seal at all and the sock is a far better implementation. The cost of the kit can also therefore be cut significantly. What matters is relocating the exhaust gas.
For $200, the parts are quite cheap. The least that could be done is for the owner to clean up the burrs and ensure the screws actually go through exhaust ports. I had to drill/clean mine out in order for the screws to go through.
I used aluminum tape over the tube/part connection. This ought to be supplied.
Finally, I cut a pair of pantyhose and zip tied a small section over the intake tubing - no sense of having crap sucked into the system unnecessarily.
The following users liked this post:
vmmvmmm (02-25-2017)
02-25-2017, 01:49 PM
#4810
Senior Member
Now that I have done the install, a couple of things.
Install the longer tube on the exhaust.
For the J-Channel, wedge a small screw driver between the connection points and pry to start. The rest will simply peel away.
If you are going to install the intake (see further down,) use 2 small screw drivers. Insert one small screw driver under the lip of the plate that will be popped off right next to one of the 4 tabs. Use the other screw driver to depress the tab (or use your finger.) Once the tab is depressed turn the first screwdriver 90 degrees to disconnect the plate from that tab. Once that is done, use your finger to depress an adjacent tab, grab the plate and it will pop right off.
Rather than worry about a screw driver to undo the connection holders under the seat, just grab them and pull down with moderate force.
Route the exhaust through the hole described in the video. If you do not go through the hole, the exhaust will NOT exhaust into the cabin. It will exhaust directly into the fabric that holds the J-channel. This is not good. This will take working of the tube to get it to go through that hole so be careful of your hands and take your time.
After the install of the exhaust, I do not think there is a need to install the intake if you have Ford's TSB. The supplied intake does not make a good seal at all and the sock is a far better implementation. The cost of the kit can also therefore be cut significantly. What matters is relocating the exhaust gas.
For $200, the parts are quite cheap. The least that could be done is for the owner to clean up the burrs and ensure the screws actually go through exhaust ports. I had to drill/clean mine out in order for the screws to go through.
I used aluminum tape over the tube/part connection. This ought to be supplied.
Finally, I cut a pair of pantyhose and zip tied a small section over the intake tubing - no sense of having crap sucked into the system unnecessarily.
Install the longer tube on the exhaust.
For the J-Channel, wedge a small screw driver between the connection points and pry to start. The rest will simply peel away.
If you are going to install the intake (see further down,) use 2 small screw drivers. Insert one small screw driver under the lip of the plate that will be popped off right next to one of the 4 tabs. Use the other screw driver to depress the tab (or use your finger.) Once the tab is depressed turn the first screwdriver 90 degrees to disconnect the plate from that tab. Once that is done, use your finger to depress an adjacent tab, grab the plate and it will pop right off.
Rather than worry about a screw driver to undo the connection holders under the seat, just grab them and pull down with moderate force.
Route the exhaust through the hole described in the video. If you do not go through the hole, the exhaust will NOT exhaust into the cabin. It will exhaust directly into the fabric that holds the J-channel. This is not good. This will take working of the tube to get it to go through that hole so be careful of your hands and take your time.
After the install of the exhaust, I do not think there is a need to install the intake if you have Ford's TSB. The supplied intake does not make a good seal at all and the sock is a far better implementation. The cost of the kit can also therefore be cut significantly. What matters is relocating the exhaust gas.
For $200, the parts are quite cheap. The least that could be done is for the owner to clean up the burrs and ensure the screws actually go through exhaust ports. I had to drill/clean mine out in order for the screws to go through.
I used aluminum tape over the tube/part connection. This ought to be supplied.
Finally, I cut a pair of pantyhose and zip tied a small section over the intake tubing - no sense of having crap sucked into the system unnecessarily.
Last edited by Livoniabob; 02-28-2017 at 12:13 PM.