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Air Lift Wireless One Power Source?

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Old 07-04-2015, 02:50 PM
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Default Air Lift Wireless One Power Source?

I have added the Air Lift Bags to my 15' Max Tow Package Lariat. I also have the Wireless One Remote Controlled compressor installed...except I don't know where to get my power from. On my 13' Tundra I just tapped off the 7 pin trailer connector. The 15' trailer connector does not have power to it until a trailer is connected to it or I have my headlights turned on. I also checked the main fuse box in the engine compartment and found that all the fuses are hot even when the truck is turned off.

Anyone care to tell me where you got your Key On Power from?

Thanks
Old 07-04-2015, 04:47 PM
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Run the ground and 10 Gauge red power wire they give you with the wireless kit direct to the battery with a 10 or 15 amp fuse on the positive side.

I just got done installing the Airlift kit and wireless one kit on my 2015 F150.

If you want them to turn off with the key. We might have to add a relay kit and look for a key powered 12VDC source in the engine bay area.

This may be what I do but for now. Powered direct from the battery.

Last edited by kendive; 07-04-2015 at 05:39 PM.
Old 07-04-2015, 05:37 PM
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Ken, that would mean the air compressor would run any time it sensed a drop in pre-set air pressure. Right? I'm looking for a "Key On" power source to prevent the full time operation of the Wireless One.

The fuse box in the engine compartment indicates all the mini-fuses are hot....even when I have the truck turned off, doors locked and key fob no where near the truck.
Old 07-04-2015, 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by hawgwildterry
Ken, that would mean the air compressor would run any time it sensed a drop in pre-set air pressure. Right? I'm looking for a "Key On" power source to prevent the full time operation of the Wireless One.

The fuse box in the engine compartment indicates all the mini-fuses are hot....even when I have the truck turned off, doors locked and key fob no where near the truck.
Yes but why would it sense a drop in pressure and run the pump? That would mean you have a leak and would need to be fixed.

But I can understand the concern. On my 2014 F150 XLT they still gave us that fuse kit for the assy voltage to the 7 pin plug. Well on the 2015 I guess you have to have a trailer connected and then in the menu turn this feature on. That's what I used on the 2014 I still pulled the red and black wires to the engine area and then tapped into that wire that gave us 12VDC when key was on...

I will work on something and get back with you.
Old 07-04-2015, 06:09 PM
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Understand..... I know my 13' Tundra I just tapped power off the trailer plug. I love how Ford has the trailer smart system but wish they would have given us power to the 7 pin plug.

I did run the wire harness up to the engine compartment fuse box.through the frame. I added the mini-fuse tap and the compressor ran fine. Still would prefer to have a "Key On" only power source if one can be found.

Thanks for your help so far.
Old 07-04-2015, 06:20 PM
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No Problem. Yes I would like to have key on power also... New truck so we got to figure it our first. but I am good at that and will have a fix soon. I am trying to remember what wire I tapped in the 2014. It was on the drivers side in the engine area back near the firewall. I tapped I think a yellow wire just before the harness connector. Oh wait we can look on the seven pin connector and look what color the wire is for the assy voltage is. I think that is pin 4 correct?

I will look tomorrow. Kids are coming over soon with the gran baby and going to watch fireworks at the river in a few.
Old 07-04-2015, 06:35 PM
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Thanks Ken,

Enjoy the rest of your day and especially with the grandkids.

No big deal if I have to pull the wire harness back out of the right side frame rail and run it up through the left side. Constant power I guess would work but "Key On" power is my quest.

Terry
Old 07-04-2015, 07:10 PM
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Fuse #35 in the pass side interior fuse panel is ign. switched. I used a ATR add-a-circuit 20amp at the fuse and ran a wire(under door/floor trim) to rear bin under back seat. I then added a fuse block and used three low amp circuits, have three extras. The circuit for Air lift is one amp.
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Old 07-04-2015, 07:28 PM
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OldFlick,

Thanks for the info. If I tap #35 interior fuse, run the wire through a grommet given that I can find one and run it to the Wireless One control module, wouldn't that work?
Old 07-04-2015, 08:53 PM
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Originally Posted by hawgwildterry
OldFlick,

Thanks for the info. If I tap #35 interior fuse, run the wire through a grommet given that I can find one and run it to the Wireless One control module, wouldn't that work?

That will work but you will have to fuse the wire to module @1 amp to be safe. The Add a circuit tap(make sure it is for ATR fuse) gives to a fused pigtail in addition to original fuse. The best one is:


Lumision FAST ADD-A-CIRCUIT ATR MICRO2 FUSE-TAP Add ON DUAL CIRCUIT ADAPTER AUTO CAR TERMINAL + 5 AMP Fuse
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