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No but it gives the insurance company a way to avoid paying out. Like if you hit somebody with a lifted truck and they go under your truck instead of hitting the bumper and/or this crash beam.
I'm just getting liability on mine when it gets delivered. If I wreck and it;s my fault I will just fix it myself.
Who is filling your head with that insurance crap?
And good luck at fixing your truck yourself. I assume you have aluminum dent pulling equipment?
Who is filling your head with that insurance crap?
And good luck at fixing your truck yourself. I assume you have aluminum dent pulling equipment?
Insurance companies will screw you any way possible to save them money.
Nobody pulls dents anymore. Whole panels are replaced. Yes I have what I need to do that. If it's not something that bolts on, I drill out the spot welds and replace the panel. My welding experience is only with steel, but you can panel bond them back on without welding now for aluminum parts. I'm average at spraying paint. I've seen guy do worse and I've seen better than me.
Like I said I know the risk. Lets figure most people keep full coverage the first 5 years of a new car. It's going to cost me $1800 more a year for full coverage than liability only. That's $9000. I'm assuming the risk that I don't do more than $9000 of parts damage to my new sub $30k truck truck (it's an XL with no options) in the next 5 years. I think I will be fine. If I'm not, I can afford another one.
Most people have full coverage well because you have too! If you are financing a vehicle the bank requires you to have full coverage. So hope you paying cash for that truck!
Most people have full coverage well because you have too! If you are financing a vehicle the bank requires you to have full coverage. So hope you paying cash for that truck!
How old are you?
Wayne
Yes, I'm paying cash. I don't use credit. I just save until I can afford what I want. It seems like that is the exception anymore. I'm 43.
Took me about a year to save for the truck. Took about 5 years to save for my home paid cash for that too. But now I own them outright and don't have to pay to insure them if I don't want to.
I derailed this guys thread really bad. Sorry. I think removing those bars would have minimal to no effect on anything, but you could get screwed by your insurance company over it anyway. They would use modifications as an excuse not to pay out.
You guys are worried about liability of a removable rod that sticks out in front of the tire, but haven't mentioned the 3 foot section of the frame that is cut off to install a lift...
Damn, what lift have you been looking at? Less than 6" was removed from mine...
Damn, what lift have you been looking at? Less than 6" was removed from mine...
I swing low, I don't need to install a lift on my truck or to pay a friend to do it. If the area of your subframe between the bolt holes only measure 6", you may be driving a power wheel.
6" per side equals.... good now add the center section that is either cut off with the sides or unbolted before and cannot be installed since its mounting location was cut off with a sawzaw....What do you get? A truck that has the same ground clearance and suspension travel, but now can't fit in parking garages.
LOL so this thread took off in a few directions. Catching up on replies:
Originally Posted by lost500
I cut mine back ,cant be that important super cabs dont have them ,im running 34x12 on -19 20inch
I understand, but I can't believe Ford would add a whole new structural piece unless they felt it was important.
Originally Posted by Jarrett H
They can't be un bolted and there are two bolts, not one.
You're correct, it's a bit*h to remove. [MENTION=189182]ExpresswayFord[/MENTION] was able to dig up this thread on the topic, which basically explains that removing these non-destructively is next to impossible, but if you need to install a new set in the future it is possible but a PITA.
... Full coverage would be $1800 a year more than liability only. So it's just not worth it to me on a base model XL that is costing me less than $30k.
You're in your 40's and have a clean driving record? Something is funky with that insurance quote. I'm 27 and my full coverage is $1,200 a year through Allstate on this $55K truck.
Ultimately I'm gonna have 4wp cut it today. The turning radius on this truck already sucked compared to my old vehicle (Camaro, different category I know..) but with the rubbing it cuts my turning down even further and I can't stand it.
.
Hi All - Just got my '15 Lariat leveled and upgraded the tires to 305/55r20 Toyo A/T's. It is rubbing pretty bad when turning in reverse. 4wheelparts told me this is due to the metal tubular structure inside the wheel well, which I guess is new for 15's. They offered to cut it off, but I hesitated.. Seemed like a bigger deal to me than just trimming plastic.
Can anyone confirm if it's OK to cut this bar off? What is it's function in the truck? And is there a better way to remove it without being permanent?
It is the square-shaped metal bar in the below pics.
View from above
Just showin' off
Do you have any profile pictures to see the offset?
How far out do the wheels stick out?
04-15-2015, 10:30 PM
