2015 2.7 power mods
10-05-2015, 12:09 AM
#11
Senior Member
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Jason_Larsen (10-05-2015)
10-05-2015, 12:17 AM
#12
F250>F150
iTrader: (2)
One of the guys on here put a 3" MBRP exhaust on his 2.7 and deleted the res. He didn't like the in-cab drone so he put a resonator back on. It doesn't sound too ricey to me. I'd like to hear it in person though.
For the money, a tuner is your biggest gain. For $400 you can either put on an exhaust, a CAI, or a tuner. (give or take a few bucks). Your gains are maybe 15 combined on a CAI/exhaust. Or you can grab like 50+ on a tuner (more on 3.5EB).
I don't think there is a big MPG swing with any of them to justify one over the other. The more I study CAI's the more worthless I think they are for the cost.
For the money, a tuner is your biggest gain. For $400 you can either put on an exhaust, a CAI, or a tuner. (give or take a few bucks). Your gains are maybe 15 combined on a CAI/exhaust. Or you can grab like 50+ on a tuner (more on 3.5EB).
I don't think there is a big MPG swing with any of them to justify one over the other. The more I study CAI's the more worthless I think they are for the cost.
10-05-2015, 04:37 AM
#13
I'm also interested in this. I'm looking to eventually do Cai, Mbrp Dual exhaust, and stainless works catted down pipes along with 5 * tunes. But along with everyone else, I'm not interested in a ricey sound. I really want to hear my turbos. I'm also wanting to find a catch can for the 2.7.
10-05-2015, 01:33 PM
#15
F150 Forum
I'm also interested in this. I'm looking to eventually do Cai, Mbrp Dual exhaust, and stainless works catted down pipes along with 5 * tunes. But along with everyone else, I'm not interested in a ricey sound. I really want to hear my turbos. I'm also wanting to find a catch can for the 2.7.
As far as installation goes you can hook up the kits any way you like. If you don't want to connect to the passenger side turbo inlet, don't. Just connect to the drivers side turbo inlet for secondary vacuum. As far as the clean side separator goes, we certainly recommend it. The catch can will do it's job with or without it just not as well without.
Our installation methods provide maximum efficiency but some prefer not to drill holes in the intake tube or air box top. I think it's important that people understand, catch cans don't determine whether drilling holes is necessary. The installer does.
In our kits we include the clean side separator which relieves air flow restriction and helps to remove up to 40% more foul vapor. This is plumbed into the air box to keep it a closed system, venting to air isn't something we ever recommend. It doesn't meet EPA guidelines and you end up with funky smells in the vehicle.
The reason we include the passenger side turbo as part of the installation is, one turbo providing vacuum is good but two is better. Again this increases efficiency. Bottom line, no matter what catch can you install. Remove air flow restriction and it will work better. Increase vacuum and it will work better.
Whatever installation you do, the catch can and it's internals determine it's overall quality and effectiveness. The RX system is known as one of the best available. Contact us with any questions.
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DS93 (10-05-2015)
12-13-2015, 10:35 PM
#17
We've got you covered on the catch can, we've sold a bunch kits to 2.7 owners. The dual valve standard size 16oz or dual valve Monster 32oz both work well. The kits come complete with everything you need e.g. can, clean side separator, hose, fittings and mounting hardware. Just follow this link to RX Speed Works.
As far as installation goes you can hook up the kits any way you like. If you don't want to connect to the passenger side turbo inlet, don't. Just connect to the drivers side turbo inlet for secondary vacuum. As far as the clean side separator goes, we certainly recommend it. The catch can will do it's job with or without it just not as well without.
Our installation methods provide maximum efficiency but some prefer not to drill holes in the intake tube or air box top. I think it's important that people understand, catch cans don't determine whether drilling holes is necessary. The installer does.
In our kits we include the clean side separator which relieves air flow restriction and helps to remove up to 40% more foul vapor. This is plumbed into the air box to keep it a closed system, venting to air isn't something we ever recommend. It doesn't meet EPA guidelines and you end up with funky smells in the vehicle.
The reason we include the passenger side turbo as part of the installation is, one turbo providing vacuum is good but two is better. Again this increases efficiency. Bottom line, no matter what catch can you install. Remove air flow restriction and it will work better. Increase vacuum and it will work better.
Whatever installation you do, the catch can and it's internals determine it's overall quality and effectiveness. The RX system is known as one of the best available. Contact us with any questions.
04-03-2016, 05:33 PM
#18
You can literally build your own catch can for half the price. After researching every one setup there's virtually any setup will work. I bought all the stuff from Amazon under $200 dollars and took me 2 hours to install. Just made sure can was baffled and bought some steel wool for more baffling. After one day of driving I captured gunk already.
04-03-2016, 08:26 PM
#19
I'm taking a hard look at the JMS Boost max. According to Truckin magazine it has a gain of over 40 HP and over 70 TQ. Not bad for around $300. Not sure I need more power though. The little sucker already pulls hard bone stock. 
04-03-2016, 09:58 PM
#20
Senior Member
https://www.f150forum.com/f118/roush-yates-jms-boostmax-327909/
Dude from Florida installed one
Dude from Florida installed one