18" vs 20" rims - pro's / con's, myth's
#31
Actually, on trucks, most tires (especially AT or "off-road" tires) weigh more than the wheel they are mounted on. For example, the 20" factory wheel on my FX4 weighs 43 lbs. The BFG AT-KO2 in 275/55/20 weighs 53 lbs.
That being said, why would you assume that a person changing from 18" to 20" wheels *was* going to change the overall diameter of the tire? Isn't it typically common to go from say a 275/65/18 to a 275/55/20 - where any difference in overall diameter would be completely up to the manufacturer anyway? ie BFG's 275/65/18 might be a few millimeters taller than a 275/65/18 Michelin anyway.
I get your intentions - to help - but your factual information that you gave was not only irrelevant, but misleading.
Calling the information that I provided 'not relevant' is a bit backwards. It's my logical belief that you've provided misleading information, albeit with good intentions - and I'm just pointing out the logical flaws in that information.
Good day.
#32
...I get your intentions - to help - but your factual information that you gave was not only irrelevant, but misleading.
Calling the information that I provided 'not relevant' is a bit backwards. It's my logical belief that you've provided misleading information, albeit with good intentions - and I'm just pointing out the logical flaws in that information.
Calling the information that I provided 'not relevant' is a bit backwards. It's my logical belief that you've provided misleading information, albeit with good intentions - and I'm just pointing out the logical flaws in that information.
What part of this statement didn't you comprehend :
"If you read my entire response to the OP, you will see that I was trying to point out that HOW you use your truck is more important than the small weight differences you will encounter if you change from 18" to 20" wheels and keep the same overall tire diameter."
#33
I had the 18's on my Lariat . I went immediately to 20" Fuel rim tire combo. Certainly found the ride with the 18's little mushy for me for a truck. I went with 305/50/20 (about exact height of stock) it's LT but still gives a bit firmer better handling ride. also love the more aggressive look it gives and so do my sons! The tire is still on the lighter weight side too compared to many that go larger .
#34
solid. I am going through this right now myself. need new tires on my '08 FX$, which has 20" wheels. I want something a little more on the beefy side, but don't want to really lift, or modify. I mostly use it to get from point A to B, but I do some carpentry work. can't decide if I should go for the LT275/55R20's, stick with the P275/55R20's, or get a smaller wheel, and a bigger tire. but what you said, "don't overthink it" seems to make the most sense.
#35
solid. I am going through this right now myself. need new tires on my '08 FX$, which has 20" wheels. I want something a little more on the beefy side, but don't want to really lift, or modify. I mostly use it to get from point A to B, but I do some carpentry work. can't decide if I should go for the LT275/55R20's, stick with the P275/55R20's, or get a smaller wheel, and a bigger tire. but what you said, "don't overthink it" seems to make the most sense.
That said, a set of Bilstein 5100 shocks can make a world of difference in the truck's suspension, especially if your current shocks are old and tired. They will let you lift the front anywhere from 0-2.1"(there are 5 settings). I set mine to .75" of lift and it would look stock to anyone that didnt know they were installed. I didnt even need an alignment. They only cost ~$375 for all 4 shocks and are well worth it due to the much better ride quality and control. If you get bigger tires and they dont quite fit, the bilsteins can lift the front enough to clear them.
As far as wheels, I honestly would stick to the 20's unless you do serious offroading. I've taken my truck up some decent forest roads where I was dragging my running boards over rocks and **** and the 20's never held me back. They will provide a more stable platform on the road and when towing/hauling due to the shorter side wall for a given tire size(IE a 34" tire on 20's has a 7" wall vs 8" on 18's or 8.5" on 17's.) Just look at the 2018 F150's. The highest tow rating is only achieved if you have 20" wheels, otherwise it's reduced ~1000 lbs.
I also have a Jeep Liberty CRD with 16" wheels and 265/75R16(32") Wrangler duratracs and it drives like a wet noodle compared to the F150. The same tires, in a similar diameter and width, but they are much more darty and tend to have a little more lag after turning the wheel quickly. This is cause of all that extra sidewall.
Last edited by mass-hole; 09-25-2018 at 01:36 PM.
The following users liked this post:
quincyjosh (09-25-2018)
#36
I run 275/60R20's(33's) Wrangler Duratracs on my stock suspension 2014, which should be about the same as your 2008. I know some guys have fit 275/65R20's(34's) on stock 11-14's as well without rubbing. I saw no reduction in MPG's but they were a little squishier because of the taller sidewall so I run 40 psi.
That said, a set of Bilstein 5100 shocks can make a world of difference in the truck's suspension, especially if your current shocks are old and tired. They will let you lift the front anywhere from 0-2.1"(there are 5 settings). I set mine to .75" of lift and it would look stock to anyone that didnt know they were installed. I didnt even need an alignment. They only cost ~$375 for all 4 shocks and are well worth it due to the much better ride quality and control. If you get bigger tires and they dont quite fit, the bilsteins can lift the front enough to clear them.
As far as wheels, I honestly would stick to the 20's unless you do serious offroading. I've taken my truck up some decent forest roads where I was dragging my running boards over rocks and **** and the 20's never held me back. They will provide a more stable platform on the road and when towing/hauling due to the shorter side wall for a given tire size(IE a 34" tire on 20's has a 7" wall vs 8" on 18's or 8.5" on 17's.) Just look at the 2018 F150's. The highest tow rating is only achieved if you have 20" wheels, otherwise it's reduced ~1000 lbs.
I also have a Jeep Liberty CRD with 16" wheels and 265/75R16(32") Wrangler duratracs and it drives like a wet noodle compared to the F150. The same tires, in a similar diameter and width, but they are much more darty and tend to have a little more lag after turning the wheel quickly. This is cause of all that extra sidewall.
That said, a set of Bilstein 5100 shocks can make a world of difference in the truck's suspension, especially if your current shocks are old and tired. They will let you lift the front anywhere from 0-2.1"(there are 5 settings). I set mine to .75" of lift and it would look stock to anyone that didnt know they were installed. I didnt even need an alignment. They only cost ~$375 for all 4 shocks and are well worth it due to the much better ride quality and control. If you get bigger tires and they dont quite fit, the bilsteins can lift the front enough to clear them.
As far as wheels, I honestly would stick to the 20's unless you do serious offroading. I've taken my truck up some decent forest roads where I was dragging my running boards over rocks and **** and the 20's never held me back. They will provide a more stable platform on the road and when towing/hauling due to the shorter side wall for a given tire size(IE a 34" tire on 20's has a 7" wall vs 8" on 18's or 8.5" on 17's.) Just look at the 2018 F150's. The highest tow rating is only achieved if you have 20" wheels, otherwise it's reduced ~1000 lbs.
I also have a Jeep Liberty CRD with 16" wheels and 265/75R16(32") Wrangler duratracs and it drives like a wet noodle compared to the F150. The same tires, in a similar diameter and width, but they are much more darty and tend to have a little more lag after turning the wheel quickly. This is cause of all that extra sidewall.
great info man! thanks! yeah, maybe I should be thinking more about the tire, less about the wheel, which is fine, and also consider a lift. not sure of a reputable joint nearby where I am that will do it. I will look into that. I drove a BULLITT Mustang from 2002 through 2015, when I got the truck, and now I can't go back to anything that low. onward and upward!
#37
Just found this tread...
great info man! thanks! yeah, maybe I should be thinking more about the tire, less about the wheel, which is fine, and also consider a lift. not sure of a reputable joint nearby where I am that will do it. I will look into that. I drove a BULLITT Mustang from 2002 through 2015, when I got the truck, and now I can't go back to anything that low. onward and upward!
This is what I see when I read this over complicated replies....
#38
#39
Member
When I first found the truck I wanted...it had 20s and no spray in bed liner. Almost bought it, then found the same truck at another dealership with the spray in bed liner and 18s. I did not want 20s...I prefer the 18s. So ended up buying the latter truck. . The 20s added about $1300 to the sticker. So with no bed liner, the first truck was about $600 more on sticker than the one I bought. But I got what I wanted for the same OTD price which was fine with me.
The following users liked this post:
Mark Miller (11-22-2021)