Sprayed clear coat, rough like sandpaper
#1
Sprayed clear coat, rough like sandpaper
I scraped my truck against a concrete post and got super, super luck with the vast majority of the damage being done to the door handle cover. I popped the cover off, sanded it, filled it with JB Weld, sanded it again and painted it last night. I used a plastic adhesion spray first, followed by 3 layers of base coat. I was very happy with the base coat, so I then sprayed three layers of clear coat.
The outer surface (being the surface that sticks out most from the truck when installed) looks pretty dog gone good for not having wet sanded it yet, but the top surface (again, top surface while installed on the truck) feels and looks like sandpaper. Like, 200 grit sandpaper.
I think number 3 is the last resort option, so my questions really boils down to not knowing if I can spray another layer of clear on top of this as it currently is or not.
The outer surface (being the surface that sticks out most from the truck when installed) looks pretty dog gone good for not having wet sanded it yet, but the top surface (again, top surface while installed on the truck) feels and looks like sandpaper. Like, 200 grit sandpaper.
- Is this likely to be corrected if I simply wet sand?
- Can I clear coat over the top of this? If yes, should I wet sand it first?
- Should I sand it down to base coat all over, add a base a layer or two, then reapply clear?
I think number 3 is the last resort option, so my questions really boils down to not knowing if I can spray another layer of clear on top of this as it currently is or not.
#3
Automotive Refinish Tech
iTrader: (1)
Base coat over only adhesion promoter? Did you prime it first? What grit did you paint over? Painted plastics should never be sanded with any grit coarser than 320. It will give a pebbley/hairy appearance. Must be primed or sealed prior to basecoat.
You can try wet sanding it, but i would reclear it. Buffing handles is difficult.
You can try wet sanding it, but i would reclear it. Buffing handles is difficult.
#4
Base coat over only adhesion promoter? Did you prime it first? What grit did you paint over? Painted plastics should never be sanded with any grit coarser than 320. It will give a pebbley/hairy appearance. Must be primed or sealed prior to basecoat.
You can try wet sanding it, but i would reclear it. Buffing handles is difficult.
You can try wet sanding it, but i would reclear it. Buffing handles is difficult.
I sanded the handle originally with 320, then smoothed it well with 1000 grit. I then sprayed it with AP, base coat, then clear coat.
I wasn't happy with the clear coat, so I sanded it completely off with 1000 grit (came off way faster than I expected with 1000) then sprayed it with 2 layers of base coat and 3 layers of clear.
it looks way better now than it did yesterday, but has a pretty gnarly orange peel that I'm hoping I'll be able to sand down with 3000 grit a little bit then polish out.
#5
Automotive Refinish Tech
iTrader: (1)
Adhesion promoter is just that, it promotes adhesion. Nothing more. It has no filling' or smoothing properties like that of primer and sealer. Basecoat adheres best to primer/sealer.
The only products I've used that say you CAN put color over adhesion promoter, is PPG's solvent line. Even then, they say you CAN. They recommend you prime or seal it first.
Gnarly orange peel could be the clear you used. Is it 1k or 2k?
The only products I've used that say you CAN put color over adhesion promoter, is PPG's solvent line. Even then, they say you CAN. They recommend you prime or seal it first.
Gnarly orange peel could be the clear you used. Is it 1k or 2k?
#6
This is the adhesion promoter I used: http://www.automotivetouchup.com/spr...-promoter.aspx
The text actually states that it is a "clear primer" which is probably why I was thinking that I didn't need a primer with it.
This is the clear coat I used: http://www.automotivetouchup.com/spr...clearcoat.aspx
I assume that it is a 1K.
I've got my fingers crossed that after sanding / buffing it'll look good. If the clear fails, I'll use a 2K next time.
The text actually states that it is a "clear primer" which is probably why I was thinking that I didn't need a primer with it.
This is the clear coat I used: http://www.automotivetouchup.com/spr...clearcoat.aspx
I assume that it is a 1K.
I've got my fingers crossed that after sanding / buffing it'll look good. If the clear fails, I'll use a 2K next time.