Paint is very very fragile
03-25-2015, 11:13 AM
#11
If they don't do it, then explain this 2015 Ford fusion rear bumper I did. 2800 miles, lady only owned it for a month and a half. Never been in an accident. She bought it from the dealer I worked for, it wasn't a trade or anything with another dealer. Looks to be about 4 paint jobs on it. 2 Ruby red, 1 sunset/bronze fire, and then another Ruby red.
Last edited by 21RRF150; 03-25-2015 at 08:04 PM.
04-21-2015, 11:41 AM
#13
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New guy here with 2008 F150. 1st time owning a domestic in almost 25 years.
I have noticed that my F150 scratches up real quick ans am thinking it is a thinner coat of paint than what i am used to seeing on the Japanese products..
No clear coat? is this std for all the Ford lines?
I have noticed that my F150 scratches up real quick ans am thinking it is a thinner coat of paint than what i am used to seeing on the Japanese products..
No clear coat? is this std for all the Ford lines?
04-21-2015, 12:04 PM
#14
Senior Member
There is a clear coat. Or at least there WAS a clear coat. If you bought it used it may be hard to tell what's been done with it.
How is it being scratched?
How is it being scratched?
04-21-2015, 12:22 PM
#15
Senior Member
Same comments about paint quality on the Tacoma forums so it's not just a Ford thing. I didn't think that the paint on my 07 Tacoma was any better or worse than anything else I've bought new and don't have enough miles on Ruby to comment other than to say that you may want to consider your following distance. Maybe by increasing it you would avoid the sand and small rocks kicked up by the vehicles in front.
04-21-2015, 01:28 PM
#16
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For me it is as simple as someone brushing up against the truck with what I don't know but just the other day I ee someone left me a souvenir on the tail gate about the size of a Silver dollar!! Dent free of charge thanks!
05-01-2015, 07:58 AM
#17
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I bought a used 92 in 1993 that only had a few thousand miles on it. I remember stopping to talk to a neighbor out in one of his fields and he leaned up against the bed with work gloves on. I was totally bummed at the scratches he left on the clear coat. (This was a metallic silver truck and I think the position of the sun highlighted it.)
Dirt is the enemy for sure. It's why I try to keep my vehicles as clean as reasonably possible.
Dirt is the enemy for sure. It's why I try to keep my vehicles as clean as reasonably possible.
05-01-2015, 08:20 AM
#18
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I bought a used 92 in 1993 that only had a few thousand miles on it. I remember stopping to talk to a neighbor out in one of his fields and he leaned up against the bed with work gloves on. I was totally bummed at the scratches he left on the clear coat. (This was a metallic silver truck and I think the position of the sun highlighted it.)
Dirt is the enemy for sure. It's why I try to keep my vehicles as clean as reasonably possible.
Dirt is the enemy for sure. It's why I try to keep my vehicles as clean as reasonably possible.
I guess I need to keep about 5 coats of wax on this truck if I want to keep it looking good.
I found the scratch kit from Duplicolor for the paint so i will gently touch it up.
The pearly blue shows everything!
05-02-2015, 04:16 PM
#19
Senior Member
NO! If it's just a scratch on the clear coat, do NOT use touch up paint! The majority of those scratches/swirls can be polished out. If it is deep enough that you see white or other colors coming through, then paint is your method.
Consider a decent dual-action buffer and pad set and use a meguiars's 83 or 85 polish. Wash the truck well and practice with the buffer and polish. The cool thing about these polishes is that they are designed to break down as you use them so you don't "burn through" the clear coat and cause damage.
Once you have polished the clear to your liking, consider a sealant like Collinite 845 (I've never used but have read good reviews) or Klasse. These are generally an acrylic sealant that will give you better scratch protection. (I believe it is marginally better, but any improvement is, well, an improvement.) Many people prefer to put a carnauba wax on top of a sealant for a warmer/deeper shine.
If you do need to actually match the paint because the scratch is that deep, I'd recommend looking into Dr. Colorchip. I'm using it now on a black Solstice and while it doesn't make the chips and scratches completely disappear, it is pretty impressive. It's biggest advantage is that it won't leave "clumps" if you use it correctly.
I've used factory touch up paint in the past and if you really want to do it right you need to apply, let cure, sand smooth with 1500 and/or 2000 grit paper, then polish with a lambswool bonnet and 3M Finesse II compound, then polish again with a lighter compound, seal and/or wax.
Consider a decent dual-action buffer and pad set and use a meguiars's 83 or 85 polish. Wash the truck well and practice with the buffer and polish. The cool thing about these polishes is that they are designed to break down as you use them so you don't "burn through" the clear coat and cause damage.
Once you have polished the clear to your liking, consider a sealant like Collinite 845 (I've never used but have read good reviews) or Klasse. These are generally an acrylic sealant that will give you better scratch protection. (I believe it is marginally better, but any improvement is, well, an improvement.) Many people prefer to put a carnauba wax on top of a sealant for a warmer/deeper shine.
If you do need to actually match the paint because the scratch is that deep, I'd recommend looking into Dr. Colorchip. I'm using it now on a black Solstice and while it doesn't make the chips and scratches completely disappear, it is pretty impressive. It's biggest advantage is that it won't leave "clumps" if you use it correctly.
I've used factory touch up paint in the past and if you really want to do it right you need to apply, let cure, sand smooth with 1500 and/or 2000 grit paper, then polish with a lambswool bonnet and 3M Finesse II compound, then polish again with a lighter compound, seal and/or wax.
