R&R valve body while in truck?
02-05-2015, 11:36 PM
#11
Junior Member
Parts
In Calgary...you're in luck... 
the filter and head are from Princess Auto. Just search up hydraulic filter and all the parts come up. I got the 1/2" npt head and 5" long filter.
The white Donaldson filters are a lot cheaper, but not as efficient. The black syntec ones are 99.9% efficient at 10 microns (beta 1000)
The brass fittings are aeroquip 4738-8-8 (npt-barb) and 4772-8 (barb-barb) from Gregg Distributors. About $5 a piece. 1/2" hose from Gregg as well. I was originally going to use aeroquip push on hose, so I bought those fittings.
I have a 2011 with the 3.7L, the flow thru the cooler is from driver side to passenger side. Thread here.. https://www.f150forum.com/f70/2012-f...change-264294/
the filter and head are from Princess Auto. Just search up hydraulic filter and all the parts come up. I got the 1/2" npt head and 5" long filter.The white Donaldson filters are a lot cheaper, but not as efficient. The black syntec ones are 99.9% efficient at 10 microns (beta 1000)
The brass fittings are aeroquip 4738-8-8 (npt-barb) and 4772-8 (barb-barb) from Gregg Distributors. About $5 a piece. 1/2" hose from Gregg as well. I was originally going to use aeroquip push on hose, so I bought those fittings.
I have a 2011 with the 3.7L, the flow thru the cooler is from driver side to passenger side. Thread here.. https://www.f150forum.com/f70/2012-f...change-264294/
03-12-2016, 12:16 AM
#14
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Thread Starter
Jason,
Tried a couple times to send you a PM. Can't tell the PM went.
I don't have info on what your original problem was, what codes were thrown or how many miles on your vehicle.
No start and not being able to get out of park after a R&R could be two different issues.
Try putting in Neutral and moving the lever +/- around N and starting. If there is a shift lever alignment issue you should be able to get it to start by moving the lever before or after neutral.
Not getting it out of park after a R&R could be that the park lever was not engaged during the install. If you still have the issue, I'll look for the photos of the park circuit and maybe you can tell from the photos if the install was correct.
Tried a couple times to send you a PM. Can't tell the PM went.
I don't have info on what your original problem was, what codes were thrown or how many miles on your vehicle.
No start and not being able to get out of park after a R&R could be two different issues.
Try putting in Neutral and moving the lever +/- around N and starting. If there is a shift lever alignment issue you should be able to get it to start by moving the lever before or after neutral.
Not getting it out of park after a R&R could be that the park lever was not engaged during the install. If you still have the issue, I'll look for the photos of the park circuit and maybe you can tell from the photos if the install was correct.
03-18-2016, 11:30 AM
#15
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Thread Starter
6R80 issues: TRS, Speed sensor, Temp Sensor or solenoids.
Occurs on vehicles with higher mileage and/or significant towing.
The problems seen are a result of “metal contamination” which is basically steel particles from clutch wear in suspension in the transmission fluid that float around and attract to magnets or settle due to gravity. The particles are way too small for the transmission filter to trap.
There are three magnets in the transmission (ignoring the solenoids) where the particles attract and accumulate. 1.) The magnet in the pan. 2.) The magnet on the TRS. 3.) The magnet on the speed sensor.
Those particles that don’t come in proximity to attract to a magnet settle as a fairly even coating on every horizontal surface the fluid is in contact with. If enough steel particles build up a film that can conduct electricity, this affects the connectors on the solenoids and the temperature sensor which is exposed to the fluid in the connector assembly.
The solution to a TRS error, speed sensor error, temp sensor error or solenoid connector issue is to remove the valve body assembly, replace the connector assembly bolted to the top of the valve body then reinstall. There are five loose parts between the valve body and the transmission. Also, the parking brake slider must be properly positioned during reassembly where the shift lever enters the case. You’ll want to look at the parking brake slider before removing the valve body so you’ll recall how to align it during reassembly. The loose parts are held in place w/ petroleum jelly (Vaseline) during reassembly. The valve body must not be over-torqued during reassembly as it will ruin it so an inch-pound torque wrench is required.
Prior to 2011 the 6R80 Transmission Control Module (TCM) was part of the connector assembly. This combination was the “Mechatronic” unit and when the connector assembly is replaced it requires reprogramming. In 2011, the TCM was relocated external to the transmission and the connector assembly can be replaced w/ no reprogramming required.
The problems seen are a result of “metal contamination” which is basically steel particles from clutch wear in suspension in the transmission fluid that float around and attract to magnets or settle due to gravity. The particles are way too small for the transmission filter to trap.
There are three magnets in the transmission (ignoring the solenoids) where the particles attract and accumulate. 1.) The magnet in the pan. 2.) The magnet on the TRS. 3.) The magnet on the speed sensor.
Those particles that don’t come in proximity to attract to a magnet settle as a fairly even coating on every horizontal surface the fluid is in contact with. If enough steel particles build up a film that can conduct electricity, this affects the connectors on the solenoids and the temperature sensor which is exposed to the fluid in the connector assembly.
The solution to a TRS error, speed sensor error, temp sensor error or solenoid connector issue is to remove the valve body assembly, replace the connector assembly bolted to the top of the valve body then reinstall. There are five loose parts between the valve body and the transmission. Also, the parking brake slider must be properly positioned during reassembly where the shift lever enters the case. You’ll want to look at the parking brake slider before removing the valve body so you’ll recall how to align it during reassembly. The loose parts are held in place w/ petroleum jelly (Vaseline) during reassembly. The valve body must not be over-torqued during reassembly as it will ruin it so an inch-pound torque wrench is required.
Prior to 2011 the 6R80 Transmission Control Module (TCM) was part of the connector assembly. This combination was the “Mechatronic” unit and when the connector assembly is replaced it requires reprogramming. In 2011, the TCM was relocated external to the transmission and the connector assembly can be replaced w/ no reprogramming required.
03-18-2016, 12:19 PM
#16
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Thread Starter
Magnefine Install
Got a chance to complete the Magnefine install. Added constant tension clamps and an insulated mounting clamp shown below.
Most recommend installing any filter after the coolers to catch any debris already in the coolers. And this would make sense if there were a catastrophic transmission failure and there was concern of debris in the coolers. In my case I'm just going after the clutch wear particulate to reduce the likelihood of future metal contamination issues. And this method of install doesn't require any line cutting and could be reverted back to stock if so desired.
Most recommend installing any filter after the coolers to catch any debris already in the coolers. And this would make sense if there were a catastrophic transmission failure and there was concern of debris in the coolers. In my case I'm just going after the clutch wear particulate to reduce the likelihood of future metal contamination issues. And this method of install doesn't require any line cutting and could be reverted back to stock if so desired.
Last edited by 22david; 03-18-2016 at 08:42 PM.
03-01-2019, 11:56 PM
#17
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Taking off valve body
Thanks for the pdf Jeff, that helped.
P0705 resolved. Drives fine. No other issue.
2011 F150 5.0 6r80
I removed the Mechatronic unit (valve body) and replaced the connector assembly part number AL3Z-7G276-B. The "connector" bolts to the top of the valve body and contains the hall effect Range Sensor (TRS) and it also looks to contain the temperature sensor (looks like a glass diode in the small space at the center of the second photo). The outer side Transmission Range Sensor (TRS) is seen in the third photo on the left side.
- Part was around $125 from Ford. No one else had it.
- "connector" does not require any vehicle reprogramming. Bolt, reinstall and go.
This was done w/ tranny in vehicle by dropping pan and removing filter and valve body (Mechatronic unit).
As a side note, lots of fine steel as a film on everything and especially caked on the TRS magnet. I believe the part didn't fail rather the build up of metal affected the hall sensor. if any high mileage 6r80 shows the p0705 code I think I'd try a good BG tranny flush to get the metal in suspension and then push it out with the fluid exchange. Don't think the metal film would have an effect on the temp sensor (non magnetic) however, the film was on everything so it might be shorting across it.
P0705 resolved. Drives fine. No other issue.
2011 F150 5.0 6r80
I removed the Mechatronic unit (valve body) and replaced the connector assembly part number AL3Z-7G276-B. The "connector" bolts to the top of the valve body and contains the hall effect Range Sensor (TRS) and it also looks to contain the temperature sensor (looks like a glass diode in the small space at the center of the second photo). The outer side Transmission Range Sensor (TRS) is seen in the third photo on the left side.
- Part was around $125 from Ford. No one else had it.
- "connector" does not require any vehicle reprogramming. Bolt, reinstall and go.
This was done w/ tranny in vehicle by dropping pan and removing filter and valve body (Mechatronic unit).
As a side note, lots of fine steel as a film on everything and especially caked on the TRS magnet. I believe the part didn't fail rather the build up of metal affected the hall sensor. if any high mileage 6r80 shows the p0705 code I think I'd try a good BG tranny flush to get the metal in suspension and then push it out with the fluid exchange. Don't think the metal film would have an effect on the temp sensor (non magnetic) however, the film was on everything so it might be shorting across it.
Is there something to do I need to know if wanna replace it?
I think I need to replace mine.
03-02-2019, 10:24 PM
#18
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Thread Starter
Replace the valve body or the connector on top of the valve body?
You didn't indicate your vehicle year or what symptoms you are attempting to address..
I had no problem replacing the connector assembly on top of the valve body back in 2014. Vaseline for the parts that would otherwise fall out. Inch pound torque wrench to reassemble properly.
Highly recommend an inline filter.
You didn't indicate your vehicle year or what symptoms you are attempting to address..
I had no problem replacing the connector assembly on top of the valve body back in 2014. Vaseline for the parts that would otherwise fall out. Inch pound torque wrench to reassemble properly.
Highly recommend an inline filter.
03-03-2019, 02:05 AM
#19
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Replace the valve body or the connector on top of the valve body?
You didn't indicate your vehicle year or what symptoms you are attempting to address..
I had no problem replacing the connector assembly on top of the valve body back in 2014. Vaseline for the parts that would otherwise fall out. Inch pound torque wrench to reassemble properly.
Highly recommend an inline filter.
You didn't indicate your vehicle year or what symptoms you are attempting to address..
I had no problem replacing the connector assembly on top of the valve body back in 2014. Vaseline for the parts that would otherwise fall out. Inch pound torque wrench to reassemble properly.
Highly recommend an inline filter.
I have shifting problems in a 2013 F150 XL 2WD V6. Dealership said the problem is the valve body so I need to replace it. I want to replace the valve body. That’s that I wanna know.
03-03-2019, 10:35 AM
#20
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Thread Starter
"shifting problems" is pretty vague.
Valve body and leadframe assembly come off as a pair.
The two primary issues inside the transmission due to clutch metal contamination are speed sensor and shift lever position sensor.
If the shift lever position sensor gets an accumulation of metal film it will not recognize what gear is requested (or neutral/park). May not start and probably will present a wrench on the dash display.
If the speed sensor gets an accumulation of metal film, it will not know the speed of the vehicle and is probably the main reason for the Ford recall on downshifting to 1st while doing 70 on the highway.
In my 2011, I'm able to make it downshift 3 gears at 70mph by quickly pumping the gas pedal 3 times, 2 gears with 2 pumps, 1 gear with 1 pump. I have yet to attempt 5 pedal pumps at speed since I don't want to ruin my truck.
Valve body and leadframe assembly come off as a pair.
The two primary issues inside the transmission due to clutch metal contamination are speed sensor and shift lever position sensor.
If the shift lever position sensor gets an accumulation of metal film it will not recognize what gear is requested (or neutral/park). May not start and probably will present a wrench on the dash display.
If the speed sensor gets an accumulation of metal film, it will not know the speed of the vehicle and is probably the main reason for the Ford recall on downshifting to 1st while doing 70 on the highway.
In my 2011, I'm able to make it downshift 3 gears at 70mph by quickly pumping the gas pedal 3 times, 2 gears with 2 pumps, 1 gear with 1 pump. I have yet to attempt 5 pedal pumps at speed since I don't want to ruin my truck.
Last edited by 22david; 05-10-2019 at 07:53 PM.
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