22david

Is it possible to remove and replace the valve body (mechatronic unit) on a 6r80 while the tranny is still in the truck? I'm concerned small parts will drop out and I won't be able to put it back together without turning it upside down on the workbench.


Tranny is throwing a P0705 code and wrench. The TRS is inside the tranny and appears to be mounted on the topside of the valve body assembly. I want to remove and clean it which means removing the valve body.


After checking the wiring and grounds I put a scope on pin 12 going to the TCM (TR-P PWM signal) and see an 8ms pattern for P, R and 2 but the rest are not so clean. I pulled the pan and filter and see a normal amount of gray film for the 145k miles on it. There is a real good chance the fine metal film is shorting the pins from the hall effect sensor being read by the micro. Just need to get to it to clean it

2011 f-150 4wd.

Thanks.

jeff_e

Sorry, I can't help you, but I'd be interested in knowing if the fluid temp sensor is accessible/replaceable... if you happen to notice while you're working on yours.
I had a P0711 code for the temp sensor last week.

There are some tranny rebuild industry mags and websites that I came across in my research that might help, I'll try to find them again.

Actually, check this out http://juchems.com/ServiceManuals/vi...%20Control.pdf

I had printed a copy that was still on my coffee table... There's a series of these pdf's. They're for 2011 Mustang, though. It's labelled 'in-vehicle repair'. Talks about putting petroleum jelly on certain bits when installing them so they stay in place.

22david

Thanks for the pdf Jeff, that helped.

P0705 resolved. Drives fine. No other issue.

2011 F150 5.0 6r80
I removed the Mechatronic unit (valve body) and replaced the connector assembly part number AL3Z-7G276-B. The "connector" bolts to the top of the valve body and contains the hall effect Range Sensor (TRS) and it also looks to contain the temperature sensor (looks like a glass diode in the small space at the center of the second photo). The outer side Transmission Range Sensor (TRS) is seen in the third photo on the left side.

- Part was around $125 from Ford. No one else had it.
- "connector" does not require any vehicle reprogramming. Bolt, reinstall and go.
This was done w/ tranny in vehicle by dropping pan and removing filter and valve body (Mechatronic unit).

As a side note, lots of fine steel as a film on everything and especially caked on the TRS magnet. I believe the part didn't fail rather the build up of metal affected the hall sensor. if any high mileage 6r80 shows the p0705 code I think I'd try a good BG tranny flush to get the metal in suspension and then push it out with the fluid exchange. Don't think the metal film would have an effect on the temp sensor (non magnetic) however, the film was on everything so it might be shorting across it.

jeff_e

That's great you got yours fixed. Thanks for the info and pics. I guess that's the part they refer to as the "lead frame".. $125 seems half-way reasonable Probably be more up here.

Did you have any issues with any pieces trying to fall out? Petroleum jelly trick?

There's also http://iihs.net/fsm/?dir=901 with much more good info. Mustang manual, again.

I've got 140000 km on mine. Going to change the filter soon and install a drain plug so I can do a few drain/refills afterwards.

22david

The thermal bypass valve was the only part where gravity kept winning. Cleaned w/ brake cleaner then a little petroleum jelly and it held easily (it was 45 F in the garage). Held like peanut butter at that temp.


I'm going to plumb in some filtration and magnets near the coolers to trap some of the wear particulate and that should do it.


Thanks again for the links.

22david

1/2 Magnefine filter, 18" 1/2 ID gates transmission hose, 2 clamps.
Disconnect the transmission line from the bottom connection at the radiator and connect it to the inlet side of the magnefine. Connect the new 18" hose to the radiator and with a nice loop connect the other end to the magnefine. The loop provides a bend radius so it won't kink.
I reused the ford spring clamp at the radiator connection. New clamps went on the magnefine. No cutting of existing lines/hoses required.
- I did add some fluid to the filter and some to the new hose. Not much in the new hose because it is ultimately draining into the tranny.
- I ran a tie wrap thru an 8" piece of 5/8 heater hose and used it as an anti vibration/chafing mount of the new transmission hose loop to where the headlight mounts. I'm sure there are many prettier ways to mount the unit.

jeff_e

Cool. I bought a spin on hydraulic filter that I plan to install. Need to weld up a bracket, though. Then I'll hold off dropping the pan until spring.

The problem is that on my usual 20 minute drive to work the thermostat on the transmission doesn't even open.. so no filtering action... If I go to the city in the stop and go traffic then it starts to use the cooler. (this is how it is in the winter, anyway. temp hovering just below freezing)

I popped the hood a few times to check if the cooler was warm. It seems to flow to the cooler when the temp needle is right around the mid position.

22david

The spin on cartridge setup is popular. And it probably does the best job long term. The maganefine was simple and fast to plumb so I knocked it out so I'd have something grabbing the steel particles now. Post a picture of how you mount the cartridge setup as I'll probably plumb that in next summer.


My 2011 F150 has that graphic display in the dash and one of the pages has a digital display of transmission temp. On a 50F day it takes about an hour for the tranny to reach 195F w/ highway driving. Since most of my drives are less time the magnefine filter is not able to do it's work. Maybe in the summer it will have an opportunity to do more filtering.

jeff_e

Okay... I had a half decent day (0 degrees C) to get this installed. After my drive yesterday, fluid was just starting to flow to the cooler (cardboard possibly helped), then I left it in drive parked in the driveway for a few minutes and had good flow thru the filter.

I need to add a support bracket, because the setup wiggles back and forth a bit. I'll also get some magnets to put on the filter canister.

This is about $70 in parts...
-filter $28 (10 micron)
-head $15
-quart of LV fluid $8
+fittings, hose and clamps

If you had a filter head with both lines coming out the top, it would probably be best to have a bracket coming off of one of the frame rails. For now, I'm happy with how this worked out

tcp2

Can you provide the part numbers and where you got them. Also, do you know the direction of flow for the fluid?
Looks great.
Thanks.