Advice on carb rebuild
#1
Advice on carb rebuild
This is my first rebuild attempt, and would like anyone with experience with a 2100 2BBL to give me heads up on what to expect or watch out for.
Looking at the carb from the outside there isn't much to see or cause me concern, but that kit must have a hundred or more intricate gaskets and small parts in it. There was a diagram and some intstructions with it but I guess I'm just needing some encouragement... Links to rebuild advice would also be appriciated.
Anyone?
Looking at the carb from the outside there isn't much to see or cause me concern, but that kit must have a hundred or more intricate gaskets and small parts in it. There was a diagram and some intstructions with it but I guess I'm just needing some encouragement... Links to rebuild advice would also be appriciated.
Anyone?
#2
Senior Member
Eh, IIRC, have either a 2100 or a 2150 on my Jeep 304 - the joke being that American Motors meant that it had a little bit of Ford, GM, and Chrysler bolted on somewhere. I rebuilt it several years ago - don't recall anything out of the ordinary as far as difficulty. There were instructions that came with the kit - just followed them to the letter. Float adjustment was the most difficult part - bending that tang to get within specs, kept wanting to spring back outside of the tolerance. Be sure you have the specs for your particular application.
Don't think you'll use all the gaskets - probably have some type of universal kit to fit a range of models or revisions - just match up the ones you take off. Have some kind of tracking system so that you know which pieces-parts go back in where and how. What may seem obvious while you're taking it apart can drive you nuts when trying to put it back together.
Be sure you know which tuning method is recommended when dialing the mixture adjustment screws back in. Again, IIRC, the top two methods are lean-best and lean-drop. One involves turning the screws in until you get a 50 or so rpm drop, then quitting. The other involves dialing the screws in until you have an idle speed drop, dialing them out until you get an idle speed drop, then splitting the difference - er, or something like that. I think there's a recommended RPM to set the idle to while you're doing this - like 1000??? Also, I think a good starting point was 3 turns out.
You can do this - take your time, read and understand the instructions thoroughly, get your parts put in right, and get any adjustments spot-on. Make sure all external connections are put back in place. Two-barrels are generally a walk in the park as compared to some of the four-barrels. Be sure to get any vacuum lines hooked back up correctly - the carbs right before the fuel injection revolution seemed to have a wealth of extra doodads on them.
Don't think you'll use all the gaskets - probably have some type of universal kit to fit a range of models or revisions - just match up the ones you take off. Have some kind of tracking system so that you know which pieces-parts go back in where and how. What may seem obvious while you're taking it apart can drive you nuts when trying to put it back together.
Be sure you know which tuning method is recommended when dialing the mixture adjustment screws back in. Again, IIRC, the top two methods are lean-best and lean-drop. One involves turning the screws in until you get a 50 or so rpm drop, then quitting. The other involves dialing the screws in until you have an idle speed drop, dialing them out until you get an idle speed drop, then splitting the difference - er, or something like that. I think there's a recommended RPM to set the idle to while you're doing this - like 1000??? Also, I think a good starting point was 3 turns out.
You can do this - take your time, read and understand the instructions thoroughly, get your parts put in right, and get any adjustments spot-on. Make sure all external connections are put back in place. Two-barrels are generally a walk in the park as compared to some of the four-barrels. Be sure to get any vacuum lines hooked back up correctly - the carbs right before the fuel injection revolution seemed to have a wealth of extra doodads on them.
#3
Senior Member
Don't have much to add or change from what wde347 offered up. Two things to be aware of. 1: Fuel enrichment or power valve, do not over tighten. Check instruction sheet for location, turn carb upside dowm, its under a cover held on with 4 screws. 2: the accelertor pump, there is a tiny ball bearing with a weight sitting on top of it. Again check the instruction sheet. Carb is sitting right side up, a large headed screw holds in the venturie, turn the carb over, the weight and ball will fall out. Last suggestion and it is not necessary but I recommend it, before top cover is installed, pour gas into the carb bowl, while looking down the venturries, check for gas shooting out when opening and closing the throttle. If you see gas squirting out its good to go. Good luck and post us with your successful results.