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2004 5.4 Death Rattle?

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Old 05-08-2016, 10:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Marcusa32
Can anyone tell me what the metal plate is for in the picture? it would seem to restrict oil flow into the tensioner. Do I use it or not?
or does it hold oil in the tensioner so it builds pressure faster the next time you start the engine?
Old 05-08-2016, 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Marcusa32
or does it hold oil in the tensioner so it builds pressure faster the next time you start the engine?
I'd say don't use it. I can't remember exactly what the block looks like under the tensioners but I think it's just the one hole so the plate wouldn't change anything. Other than now you'd have a piece of metal plate sitting directly on the block with no sealant between the plate and block so it would likely lose some oil in the timing cover (not a horrible deal) and will possibly lose some pressure in the tensioner.
Old 05-23-2016, 09:41 PM
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Always check oil pressure first before trying to patch a Modular engine. It requires 30psi hot oil, oil pressure idling in gear. If you put a reman. engine in it the iron tensioners are superior. You may use the plates or not. The cam caps are likely scored on your old engine.
Old 05-25-2016, 02:25 PM
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I haven't seen anyone mention it but, make sure you use a Motorcraft Oil Filter on mod motors.
Old 06-21-2016, 07:04 AM
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Ok, I'm assuming I have an oil pressure issue due to an old worn engine but a new engine here is just not possible (availability and cost are a serious factor).

I'm also starting to question my first diagnosis, I assumed it was a loose timing chain but now ive replaced it with the iron tensioners I shouldn't be having that issue; what I am getting is misfires, lack of power and codes for timing (position, advanced etc.), I'm starting to think my Dorman phasers have died on me and the inner vanes have broken causing the rattling noise. I'm thinking of getting a new set of phasers (because if I have to pull this F$%king engine apart one more time I might as well change them) and a lock out kit (just the blocks, I can get a local shop to deactivate the vct system) and hopefully this will solve my problem
Old 06-21-2016, 12:28 PM
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If you take the timing cover off again the oil pump and pickup tube can be removed out the front. A Melling brand pump has an iron backing plate and does not flex as much bleeding off pressure. Motorcraft phasers are superior. If you put the lockout kit it is suppose to patch a low oil pressure engine. The cam caps get scored and bleed off pressure before it can get to the phasers and tensioners.
Old 08-21-2023, 11:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Marcusa32
Members,

I am in desperate need of your help, experience and guidance.

I am experiencing a horrific rattle during start up, only for a few seconds but it sounds like someone is going wild with a chainsaw inside the engine block.

Here is a brief history on the truck:

108k miles -
PROBLEM - Rattle on start up, misfires, excessive fuel use, generally unhappy engine. Broken chain tensioner arm and broken timing chain guide.
CURE - timing gear replacement (Crank gear, Chains, Guides, Tensioner arms, both cam phasers and one tensioner) ford didn't have the drivers side tensioner in stock and I couldn't wait the 2 weeks to get it, old tensioner seemed fine. I also replaced the water pump while I was in there.

115k -
PROBLEM - Rattle on start up, misfires. Broken guide and tensioner arm drivers side
CURE - timing gear replacement (timing chain guide, tensioner arm and tensioner drivers side )

133k - (current)
PROBLEM - Rattle on start up/Rattle while under medium load, misfires and cam timing errors

TRIED - timing gear replacement (tensioners, guides and arms) and the rattle is still there, if not worse than before. The timing had jumped a tooth so that was reset and does seem to have fixed the misfires and cam timing errors. I am concerned about the rattle under load too as its never done that before. Its almost like the tensioners aren't getting the oil pressure they need but what would cause this?

Any help out there, I'm desperate now
a little late but couldn’t help but reply, a lot of these engines will stop their multiple problems when you switch to 20w-50 oil, the thicker oil causes the “fuel saving” advance timing mechanism to stop operating, which is where all the problems come from. Wonderfully bad design by Ford.
Old 08-22-2023, 09:41 PM
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20w-50 doesn’t stop VCT operation at all. Oil will still get to the system and it has to. If it doesn’t, kiss the engine goodbye.

IMO, most of the system is rather stout (best design ever, no, but Ford’s money issues back then didn’t help), aside from the tensioners with the crummy plastic seal that blows out, which then allows now slack chains to beat those guides into oil pan shrapnel and eventually wear into the timing cover.

Last edited by Johnny Paycheck; 08-22-2023 at 09:43 PM.



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