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Sorry for the delay all. I would say that if the engine is OK with running at that pressure the phaser will be totally fine, with the lockout inside the phaser now operates more like a fixed camshaft sprocket.
One would have to use the steel chain tensioners though to keep tension on the chains at low oil pressure. The 2001 and earlier model tensioners will fit all the Triton and Romeo and Windsor OHC engines.
The very best tip was make a large card board drawing of your timing cover . Punch the bolts right in there ,tape back side to keep them there . Put number sequences on them for torquing back on . Put torque pounds on them . Make a checklist on the side torqued etc . A sharpie works great for this . You won't believe how much easier it makes everything go back on . Sucks to go thru a bowl full of stuff .
I also changed oil pump out to melling 360 ,see jasper you tube video .
My lash adjusters were bad so I changed rollers and lash's .
I scratched in drivers side etc on guides I took off to compare to new ones to get it right . They are hard to tell .
Passenger side valve cover can be gotten out of there without removing ac hose . Pull computer, pull battery and tray ,unbolt accumulator have someone help pull accumulator up and out enough to get cover off . I used a strap to the ceiling to hold it .
Made my own crank pulley holder to get bolt on and off . Heavy flat bar drilled to fit 2 metric bolt holes in pulley . Use case hardened bolts for that .
You will need to mark new crank bolts and phasor bolts with a paint line for torquing .
I chose the method of putting engine at no.1 TDC , cam lobes like the work shop manual on number 1 and 5 ,dot on cam gear at 6 oclock . Then pull old chains . I lifted my cams per manual rather than remove rollers etc . when all lined up correctly re torquing cams in sequence . Keeping an eye on rollers of course .I never moved crank until double checked all was right . Then turned by hand with 32 mm socket on crank 2 full revolution to prove no interference . plugs should have been pulled so you didn't have to fight compression .
Make sure your reluctor goes back on the correct way .
The very best tip was make a large card board drawing of your timing cover . Punch the bolts right in there ,tape back side to keep them there . Put number sequences on them for torquing back on . Put torque pounds on them . Make a checklist on the side torqued etc . A sharpie works great for this . You won't believe how much easier it makes everything go back on . Sucks to go thru a bowl full of stuff .
I also changed oil pump out to melling 360 ,see jasper you tube video .
My lash adjusters were bad so I changed rollers and lash's .
I scratched in drivers side etc on guides I took off to compare to new ones to get it right . They are hard to tell .
Passenger side valve cover can be gotten out of there without removing ac hose . Pull computer, pull battery and tray ,unbolt accumulator have someone help pull accumulator up and out enough to get cover off . I used a strap to the ceiling to hold it .
Made my own crank pulley holder to get bolt on and off . Heavy flat bar drilled to fit 2 metric bolt holes in pulley . Use case hardened bolts for that .
You will need to mark new crank bolts and phasor bolts with a paint line for torquing .
I chose the method of putting engine at no.1 TDC , cam lobes like the work shop manual on number 1 and 5 ,dot on cam gear at 6 oclock . Then pull old chains . I lifted my cams per manual rather than remove rollers etc . when all lined up correctly re torquing cams in sequence . Keeping an eye on rollers of course .I never moved crank until double checked all was right . Then turned by hand with 32 mm socket on crank 2 full revolution to prove no interference . plugs should have been pulled so you didn't have to fight compression .
Make sure your reluctor goes back on the correct way .
next time I do timing job etc , I’m using that flat bar idea for crank pulley. I like it and I have a piece of metal. I used bolts and crow bar and it bent **** out of the bolts but I think I did ok, be finishing up tomorrow
Changing oil pump on '03 expedition 5.4L v3 do I have to take my power steering pump off to remove timing case and if not jow do I get ti the bolt behind it..and the best way to do that job on the ps pump..thanks in advance.
Changing oil pump on '03 expedition 5.4L v3 do I have to take my power steering pump off to remove timing case and if not jow do I get ti the bolt behind it..and the best way to do that job on the ps pump..thanks in advance.
Changing oil pump on '03 expedition 5.4L v3 do I have to take my power steering pump off to remove timing case and if not jow do I get ti the bolt behind it..and the best way to do that job on the ps pump..thanks in advance.
@JAMESC76 you should create your own thread for this.
Maybe a crazy question, but has anyone ever tried to file a warranty claim with the manufacturer over a timing chain? Purchased a full Melling timing kit and installed it back in September. Truck has ran perfectly fine for months now but last week it went down on me, I was driving along, crossed the railroad tracks and started going up a hill and all of a sudden it popped, lost all power, started stumbling and barely got off the road. I pulled valve covers
this morning to check the timing figuring the phaser went bad again and saw the bank two timing chain is broken… not necessarily broken but looks like the outside link just popped off and the chain came apart. I was able to fish the link out of the oil pan with a magnet and it looks perfectly fine.
Unfortunately, I don’t know if the engine is salvageable now, I can only assume the pistons and valves did the dance? If anyone has any insight on the situation I would greatly appreciate it. Anyway, I sent a message to Summit (where I purchased it) asking for warranty info. on it, maybe just peeing in the wind here but I figured I’d take a shot.
06-16-2016, 07:38 AM
