jimates

I got a super deal on a 2004 F150 project. Truck is in super great shape inside and out. 180k miles. Has an engine knock, misfire on #2 and some smoke.

Engine and truck were always maintained well with the common F150 ailments done at the dealer.
Cam phaser work was done 20K miles ago at the dealer using a wedge, so the front wasn't opened up.

Irrelevant but - Knock sounds like the rear main. Even sounds loud in the bell housing.

Pressure in the valve cover when I remove the oil fill cap.

Moved the COP from #2 to #5. Misfire stayed on #2. Pulled the plug out and the bottom of the plug is burnt off.
I looked in the cylinder with my camera. Looks like an area on the side of the piston is burnt away. Pulled the plug from #1 and it looks like the same thing there except oil is present. Don't have the correct adapter for my compression gauge to check the compression.

I haven't pulled the head yet, but I plan on rebuilding the motor if the block is ok.

What I am wanting input on is the cam phaser work. Since the dealer did that 20K ago I am assuming the phaser part should be ok and I can just replace the timing components. I won't know what the cams look like until I get into it.
Should I replace the cams no matter what? I find prices for cams for the 05 much cheaper than the 04, is there a difference?

Update: 3/30/15
Got the intake off this evening. Lots of oil in the intake.

Beeman1221

I rebuilt my 2007 5.4. Used the Cam Phasers that were on there. If your motor isn't running right I'll bet you snapped the tensioner rail(s). Gummed up the entire system. Mine snapped like a lot do. Ruined the cams and cam journals. Before you take anything else off. Take the timing cover off. And see how the timing components are doing. Get back to me.

Brandon

jimates

Been busy with other things, but almost have the timing cover off. I think the power steering pump is giving him some problems. I am letting him do most of the work and he just does a few things every afternoon or so. He had trouble with the valve cover bolts and the A/C line in the way. We are going to take the motor mounts off so the engine can drop down to give room for the valve cover removal.

As soon as we something opened up we will get some pictures. I will keep you updated.

Beeman1221

Those bolts holding the power steering pump on are tricky. Good luck XD

tareed94

I unbolted the AC condenser (or whatever that canister is there on the passenger side) when I did mine. It allowed enough room to get the valve cover out, also allowed an uncured painted cover to go back on without tearing all the paint off. Good luck on the rebuild. Might be worthwhile to pull the radiator and get some more room in the engine bay.

jimates

yesterday we got the power steering pump out of the way and the bracket that comes up over the left valve cover. Took the timing cover and the left valve cover off.

Chains, guides and tensioners were great shape.

We will likely go ahead and pull the inner fender wells to get to the exhaust manifolds.

Tareed94, We took the radiator out, makes lots of working room in the front. And plenty of room to stand in there. Since we are going to pull the pan, we are going to use the option of removing the motor mounts to let the engine drop enough to get the right cover and head off.

We may end up pulling the whole thing in the end.

Hope to get the heads off before the weekend is over.

tareed94

If you're planning to pull the heads id just pull the whole engine. Seems like you'd be almost there by that point (with dropping the engine mounts etc) and it would make the whole process much easier. Especially the manifolds.

Beeman1221

I agree. It made my life a lot easier just to keep the manifolds on, there's so little spacein there it's just going to be a headache. If you are pulling the whole motor leave the heads on, and disconnect the two bolts on the lower exhaust on both sides. Much less work and frustration.