Replacement rod bolts for 4.2
#1
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Replacement rod bolts for 4.2
Howdy Y'all!
I had my 4.2 cam synchro fail (without warning) and I'm well into the tear-down. Crank seized, Oh Joy! This is a well-maintained, one-owner engine that's outrageously clean inside. Knowing how F*** (etc) likes to use torque-to-yield (throw-away) bolts everywhere, I want to put in new rod bolts when i reassemble it. The problem is that I can't find an iota of info on the OEM rod bolts.
Would somebody, please, give me a part number (or ARP cross-reference number) for new rod bolts for them? A source would be awesome! These are the "cracked-cap" 6.090" ones
The engine is F150 4.2, 1999 model. It's my DD and I can't make a living while it's laid-up and I can't find replacement parts.
Are the OEM rod bolts even t-t-y? Or are they "old school" and able to withstand being re-torqued with reasonable reliability? My last F*** was an '83 Heritage T-Bird 5.0 and it was quite Old School, this 4.2 is a whole different animal...
THANKS!
FFP
I had my 4.2 cam synchro fail (without warning) and I'm well into the tear-down. Crank seized, Oh Joy! This is a well-maintained, one-owner engine that's outrageously clean inside. Knowing how F*** (etc) likes to use torque-to-yield (throw-away) bolts everywhere, I want to put in new rod bolts when i reassemble it. The problem is that I can't find an iota of info on the OEM rod bolts.
Would somebody, please, give me a part number (or ARP cross-reference number) for new rod bolts for them? A source would be awesome! These are the "cracked-cap" 6.090" ones
The engine is F150 4.2, 1999 model. It's my DD and I can't make a living while it's laid-up and I can't find replacement parts.
Are the OEM rod bolts even t-t-y? Or are they "old school" and able to withstand being re-torqued with reasonable reliability? My last F*** was an '83 Heritage T-Bird 5.0 and it was quite Old School, this 4.2 is a whole different animal...
THANKS!
FFP
#2
rollin in my 5.0
they are fine for reuse, I'm pretty sure you can't even remove em from the rod cap like older one, they are fine,I just replaced the rod and main bearings in mine and the rod bolts torqued out fine, the mains however are tty, you can go as far as 70ft lbs and reuse em. I seen where some places have em listed as being spec'd at 80ftlbs but they will not go that far.
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Thanks for the reply, Jim.
Which engine did you do the bearings on? On mine the rod bolts are bolts that thread into the rod, just like the main caps. Or, just like an Eagle H-beam.
I did find (finally) the replacement bolts and there are ARP parts available. The 4.2 rod bolts are the same as the 4.6/5.4 engines and new OEM bolts are ~$25 a set ($2.xx per bolt). The ARPs are stupidly expensive ~$140+ a set (16).
Figure I'll just replace all of the critical bolts (rod, main, head, lower intake, etc) and not have to worry about it. It's a 5-speed and I DO twist it up like it's cool. It's also getting some upgrades and a raised rev limit, last thing I need is a rod bolt failure
I have the part page bookmarked in a different browser but I'll try to remember to come back and post it. Shocking how hard I had to hunt for it, especially considering it's a common part with the Tritons. Ended up entering the VIN on OEM parts site and comparing to the V8s.
Thanks again for the reply. I'll definitely add your bolt info to my notes. I've gotten into the habit of taking a used bolt, using a Dremel cutoff wheel to make a few lengthwise cuts (like a tap has) and using it as a thread cleaner/chaser. Also, knowing the threshold of the bolt I'll feel more confident torquing them (old bolts) when I check main clearance/bearing crush. I would have probably gone past 80# and goofed the clamping load without ever realizing it. Devil's in the details.
Have a good one!
FFP
Which engine did you do the bearings on? On mine the rod bolts are bolts that thread into the rod, just like the main caps. Or, just like an Eagle H-beam.
I did find (finally) the replacement bolts and there are ARP parts available. The 4.2 rod bolts are the same as the 4.6/5.4 engines and new OEM bolts are ~$25 a set ($2.xx per bolt). The ARPs are stupidly expensive ~$140+ a set (16).
Figure I'll just replace all of the critical bolts (rod, main, head, lower intake, etc) and not have to worry about it. It's a 5-speed and I DO twist it up like it's cool. It's also getting some upgrades and a raised rev limit, last thing I need is a rod bolt failure
I have the part page bookmarked in a different browser but I'll try to remember to come back and post it. Shocking how hard I had to hunt for it, especially considering it's a common part with the Tritons. Ended up entering the VIN on OEM parts site and comparing to the V8s.
Thanks again for the reply. I'll definitely add your bolt info to my notes. I've gotten into the habit of taking a used bolt, using a Dremel cutoff wheel to make a few lengthwise cuts (like a tap has) and using it as a thread cleaner/chaser. Also, knowing the threshold of the bolt I'll feel more confident torquing them (old bolts) when I check main clearance/bearing crush. I would have probably gone past 80# and goofed the clamping load without ever realizing it. Devil's in the details.
Have a good one!
FFP
#4
Thanks for the reply, Jim.
Which engine did you do the bearings on? On mine the rod bolts are bolts that thread into the rod, just like the main caps. Or, just like an Eagle H-beam.
I did find (finally) the replacement bolts and there are ARP parts available. The 4.2 rod bolts are the same as the 4.6/5.4 engines and new OEM bolts are ~$25 a set ($2.xx per bolt). The ARPs are stupidly expensive ~$140+ a set (16).
Figure I'll just replace all of the critical bolts (rod, main, head, lower intake, etc) and not have to worry about it. It's a 5-speed and I DO twist it up like it's cool. It's also getting some upgrades and a raised rev limit, last thing I need is a rod bolt failure
I have the part page bookmarked in a different browser but I'll try to remember to come back and post it. Shocking how hard I had to hunt for it, especially considering it's a common part with the Tritons. Ended up entering the VIN on OEM parts site and comparing to the V8s.
Thanks again for the reply. I'll definitely add your bolt info to my notes. I've gotten into the habit of taking a used bolt, using a Dremel cutoff wheel to make a few lengthwise cuts (like a tap has) and using it as a thread cleaner/chaser. Also, knowing the threshold of the bolt I'll feel more confident torquing them (old bolts) when I check main clearance/bearing crush. I would have probably gone past 80# and goofed the clamping load without ever realizing it. Devil's in the details.
Have a good one!
FFP
Which engine did you do the bearings on? On mine the rod bolts are bolts that thread into the rod, just like the main caps. Or, just like an Eagle H-beam.
I did find (finally) the replacement bolts and there are ARP parts available. The 4.2 rod bolts are the same as the 4.6/5.4 engines and new OEM bolts are ~$25 a set ($2.xx per bolt). The ARPs are stupidly expensive ~$140+ a set (16).
Figure I'll just replace all of the critical bolts (rod, main, head, lower intake, etc) and not have to worry about it. It's a 5-speed and I DO twist it up like it's cool. It's also getting some upgrades and a raised rev limit, last thing I need is a rod bolt failure
I have the part page bookmarked in a different browser but I'll try to remember to come back and post it. Shocking how hard I had to hunt for it, especially considering it's a common part with the Tritons. Ended up entering the VIN on OEM parts site and comparing to the V8s.
Thanks again for the reply. I'll definitely add your bolt info to my notes. I've gotten into the habit of taking a used bolt, using a Dremel cutoff wheel to make a few lengthwise cuts (like a tap has) and using it as a thread cleaner/chaser. Also, knowing the threshold of the bolt I'll feel more confident torquing them (old bolts) when I check main clearance/bearing crush. I would have probably gone past 80# and goofed the clamping load without ever realizing it. Devil's in the details.
Have a good one!
FFP
Where did u get your replacement bolts from? Because I'm faced with the same problem you had. It's very hard to find these bolts online
#5
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Kingskid, sorry for the slow reply... I'd put the engine on hold (trying to decode the ECM for tuning) and forgot about this thread. If you don't already have the rod bolts I got them from FordPartsGiant.com, little over $2 each. I'm posting a link to a 1999 F150. The bolts should be the same for '97-up 4.2s.
http://www.fordpartsgiant.com/partli...5-1915017.html is the page, LY-6214-A is the part number. I also found them at another site with same part number http://www.fdmotorparts.com/partlist...5-1915017.html. Both sites sell the bolts singly. The old ones are a "little" difficult to get out of the rod caps but I removed them by hand with a little cursing. Pull, twist, curse - repeat.
Again, sorry for not catching your post sooner. Best of luck!
FFP
http://www.fordpartsgiant.com/partli...5-1915017.html is the page, LY-6214-A is the part number. I also found them at another site with same part number http://www.fdmotorparts.com/partlist...5-1915017.html. Both sites sell the bolts singly. The old ones are a "little" difficult to get out of the rod caps but I removed them by hand with a little cursing. Pull, twist, curse - repeat.
Again, sorry for not catching your post sooner. Best of luck!
FFP
#6
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Kingskid, a side note... I had to replace a couple of the main bolts. They were VERY difficult to get and cost more than $30 each. Ordered them from New York and had a lot of trouble getting the correct parts. As Jim Rockford mentioned they will not handle the torque spec rating in the manual. A fellow in another forum says they break around 70 ft-lbs and he found that 65 ft-lbs was a "safe" maximum with clean, DRY threads. At their cost, use extreme care when tightening them. Ford does not make them any longer and they are EXTREMELY difficult to obtain. Dealership only and still have to hunt all over the US to find them. Again, best of luck!
FFP
FFP