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Old 08-23-2014, 09:46 PM   #11
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The pattern that I've noticed is the problem is cropping up just outside of warranty. It doesn't matter if the truck is northern or southern. That Ford hasn't updated the part is a great concern to me. Does this mean that those buying 14's will also have the same problem? If that's true, then Ford has a huge problem that's just starting to come to light. I've heard that the 15's will have an updated Eco engine. Will that be the fix? Gosh, I'd hope not.

What are your thoughts on the tensioner and chain? Is the chain stretching and then taking out the tensioner? When maxed out does the lever hammer on the tensioner?
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Old 08-24-2014, 10:30 AM   #12
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I feel like my tensioner is OK. I think that the chain just stretched so much that it was beyond the ability of the tensioner to take the slack up because the plunger was completely extended.


The spring that is in that tensioner is pretty healthy. It seems like it would be more than enough to keep the tension on the chain during startup while the engine is building oil pressure...that is if the chain is not already stretched too far.


I am still fighting with myself on whether to replace the cam phasers. Right now leaning toward not replacing them.


I think after I get this done I am going to do 2 things once I get it back together (providing it ever runs again! ):


1. Change oil at 3000 mile intervals. I tend to subscribe to the theory that carbon in the oil from blow-by is eating these chains up. From all I have read, boosted motors seem to have more blow-by because of the higher combustion chamber pressures.


2. I am also going to put a catch can on it. I have read the many pages of threads (read as arguments!) about catch cans. But, I think anything it can catch before it is ingested back into the motor is good.
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Old 08-24-2014, 11:39 AM   #13
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I run the best synthetic oil available in area and not be afraid of 10W30 in warm weather. My motors are broken in well and the pump will handle it fine, even 5W40 works well when summer/July oil change comes in. The reason the chain stretches is the lubricant isn't so good and the cam runs the fuel pump/ there is more load on it. I use catch cans on the clean air side of the PCV system. Mine are in boost mostly due to hills and expressways + the nearly constantly full loads in the boxes. The large catch can helps hold evacuation in the crankcase and has evened out the MPG to 1 or 2 tenths change a tank full instead of 1 to 3 mpg. I suppose it is the 5W40 in this heat that is the .1 or .2 MPG change per tank reason. I do know steady vacuum draw to the crankcase leads to more power and fuel economy. Gasoline in the motor oil is much relieved with good running times between shut downs to eliminate it.


I'm sure Fords change with the 2.7L to 2 cam chains and a camshaft rear mounted centrifugal HP fuel pump and vacuum pump are for this reason. Each Camshaft has the same load on it.. My reason to look to this motor for my next fleet purchases.
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Old 08-24-2014, 11:59 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SUVette View Post
I feel like my tensioner is OK. I think that the chain just stretched so much that it was beyond the ability of the tensioner to take the slack up because the plunger was completely extended.


The spring that is in that tensioner is pretty healthy. It seems like it would be more than enough to keep the tension on the chain during startup while the engine is building oil pressure...that is if the chain is not already stretched too far.


I am still fighting with myself on whether to replace the cam phasers. Right now leaning toward not replacing them.


I think after I get this done I am going to do 2 things once I get it back together (providing it ever runs again! ):


1. Change oil at 3000 mile intervals. I tend to subscribe to the theory that carbon in the oil from blow-by is eating these chains up. From all I have read, boosted motors seem to have more blow-by because of the higher combustion chamber pressures.


2. I am also going to put a catch can on it. I have read the many pages of threads (read as arguments!) about catch cans. But, I think anything it can catch before it is ingested back into the motor is good.
In my mind, it's been pretty well established that the sooting caused by the use of DI is what leads to the excessive timing belt wear. Several manufacturers (including ford) have joined a working group under SAE to research solutions. Personally, I would consider getting a partial bypass oil filter setup first, to eliminate the fine particulates. Just my $0.02
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Old 08-24-2014, 03:45 PM   #15
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Timing Be;t ?
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Old 08-24-2014, 08:46 PM   #16
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Chain. Whatever.
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Old 09-05-2014, 10:18 AM   #17
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Good post cord.
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Old 09-05-2014, 10:19 AM   #18
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& suvette.
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Old 09-06-2014, 09:33 PM   #19
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Sorry...it's been a while. Well, I got my truck back together and it is now good to go. Engine is quiet as can be and no slapping noise on startup even after sitting for 24 hours or so.


After I finished it up and was ready to take a test drive (which happened to be about 1:30am!), I did find I had forgotten 1 electrical connection and forgot to connect one of the tubes that connects to the CAC. My engine light went off right after I started the engine, but it came back on as soon as I accelerated down my road. Ended up taking to local auto parts store and had the codes cleared (which were the ones I was expecting). Since having them cleared, I have driven probably 4-500 miles and no more engine light!!! I am very happy camper.


So, all in all, I had around $800 in parts and approximately 12-14 hours of my time in it. I ended up not replacing the VCTs. They seem to be fine. I did replace all chain guides, chain tensioner, primary timing and secondary timing chains, secondary chain tensioners, and all gaskets that removed in the process. I had an outstanding manual that was electronic and interactive. Gave me all torque specs and was great on exploded views, which is really what I like to go by. I got it on Ebay for like 30 bucks!


I will have to say that all the gaskets I came across were o-ring type gaskets...very nice. They left no residue. The only pita was the actual timing cover is sealed with RTV. It was kind of painful to get off. I then used acetone to remove all residual oil on the timing cover/block mating surface to ensure a good bond for the new RTV I installed.


One other piece of info. When you remove the sprocket/VCT assemblies on the cams, you will notice that one of the sprockets has 2 timing marks. They are an "L" and "R". It took me a few minutes to figure out that this was left and right...duh!! So, I believe Ford refers to the left one as if you were sitting in the truck.


I hope that no one else has to go through this. The job wasn't rocket surgery, just pretty time consuming. If anybody has any other questions, PM me and I would be happy to help out.
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Old 09-06-2014, 09:36 PM   #20
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One more thing I forgot...I am now a member of the drilled a hole in the CAC club! I did this a while back, but I have not had any issues with stumble since drilling the hole. I did have lots of "stuff" come out when I first drilled it. I know I have seen lots of discussion/arguing about this on here. I drilled a 1/16" hole and have noticed zero reduction in power.


I love my truck again! I hope it keeps going for a long long time.
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Old 09-06-2014, 09:36 PM
 
 
 
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crank position sensor, p0016, phaser, stretch, timing chain

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