SUVette

Hi all...first post.

I bought my 2011 SCREW 4x4 with Ecoboost about 2 months ago from used car dealer and has about 68000miles.

It has since developed the loud marbles on the top of the motor sound upon cold starts (sure sounds like timing chain slap to me). Only usually has the terrible sound for about 5-6 seconds and goes away. Will only typically do it after sitting all night. It had been going into limp mode several times prior to today. It threw the dreaded P0016 code on my way home from work today.

Questions - Has anyone replaced timing chains, tensioners, and cam phasers on one of these??? I figure if I open it up I am going to replace everything. I also read somewhere that the water pump was strategically located behind timing cover...really???

I did this on my 2000 5.4 triton and it wasn't terrible. Just trying to see if this is a huge PITA on this? I am still in disbelief that the timing chain has stretched this much (if that is what it is) at only 68k miles.

Any info is greatly appreciated.

SUVette

Bump.


Come on guys, I know one of you smart guys on this forum has to have done this!! I am getting ready to pull the trigger and just do this. Just trying to find any lessons learned that might help.

KJ Smith

Post this in the 2011 engines section.


Its under the 2009 and up sub forum.


Yea, its been done.

John f150

Have a2011 ecoboost 12200kms just got the dreaded code timing chain, just as you described it limp mode,after warranty problem,ford offers no help with this,been to the dealer ,saw one with 45000kms all apart with same issue ,loss of power poor mileage noises at startup , I am in canada ,Nova Scotia ford tells me they had no complaints of this which is not true my dealership is small mine will be #5 to be repaired!!!! I have had the inter cooled changed,cat converter,spark plugs,injectors,yolk on the rear end,all started at approx,50 to 60 thousand Kms!!! Getting an estimate on the repair and ford says very little issues ,just joined the forum today ,just as I expected lots of problems!!! If there is a recall ford tells me to save my receipts!! Thanks john

SUVette

Thanks for the replies. I am getting a quote this week from a trusted independent shop. I really don't want to do this right now. I have 1 year old twins and a 5 yr old, so I don't have loads of extra time!


I ordered and interactive shop manual, which is quite good. It doesn't look all that bad to replace. Only things that scares me is a couple of seals that I would have to have some special tools for.


I have called my local Ford dealer here in Indiana and 2 other independent shops and no one has touched the timing chain on one of these motors. Interesting.

SUVette

Well, I have it torn down. Finally made my way to the timing chain....whew! Looks to me like the primary chain is definitely stretched. Check out how many teeth are showing on the tensioner. Seems like it is pretty much all the way out. I am anxious to get it off of there and compare to my new chain. I will post a pic once I get them side by side.


I am going to replace pretty much everything since I have it opened up. Seems dumb not to replace the secondary chains guides, tensioners, etc at this point.

Cord

I agree, for the cost just replace it all. They refused to replace my tensioner and I still have the rattle upon startup. The chain does seem to be part of the problem though because the truck is much better. Once it starts setting code, the truck is almost undriveable.

Please post comparison pics with both chains. So far, nobody has been able to get a comparo pic. Other members would really like to have a step by description of the repair, special tools, parts and how much time it took you to do the job. I believe you are the first to try this yourself so any info you can provide would be appreciated!

SUVette

Thanks Cord!


So...what is everyone's thoughts on replacing the VCTs while I am in here? I talked off line to Cord and his opinion is don't replace them (I share his opinion because they are around $450 for all four). HOWEVER, I do hate to be this far and have one bad. I have no reason to think one is bad though.

Just wondered what everyone's opinion on these phasers is. Doesn't look like there is any possible way to replace them without taking timing cover off again. I saw that on the old 5.4L's that ate phasers like skittles, there was a tool which allows you to replace them by only removing valve covers. That would be nice!


Status: I am currently waiting on 2 chain guides and then will start putting it back together. I will try and take pics as I go in case anyone is interested.

Cord

The initial diagnosis for my rattle was the passenger side intake phaser was bad. The replaced the phaser and the solenoid. When I started the truck it rattled the same and it set a check engine light before I even left the dealer parking lot. Without even leaving I drove it right back into the service bay. They tore the engine back down and the second diagnosis was that the timing chain was "also" defective. BS! Told them in no uncertain terms that their initial diagnosis was defective and that they had replaced good parts. Thankfully my dealer was good and he argued with corporate that the second repair should be covered. It was, otherwise I would have been out another l$1,500. That said, they wouldn't replace the tensioner, even when I offered to pay for it. Remember, all of these repair decisions are now made at corporate, not by the dealer. This is part of the problem people are having with getting the engine repaired. A few month latter the rattle came back, but only if the truck sat for a few days. It's gradually gotten worse over summer, but the truck still has to sit for two days before it'll reliably rattle. The dealer is aware of this and has offered to cover the third repair under the 2 year repair warranty. I still have another year on that warranty, so I'm just biding my time. It would really suck if this chain and tensioner had to be replaced every 70,000 miles.

SUVette

Here's a little more info. I took the primary chain off and compared its length to that of the new chain. Here was my setup for measuring the chains:






Here is the amount of stretch I measured:





Here is side view of the tensioner. The tensioner was completely extended.



Here is the end of the plunger...notice the wear.





Lastly...here is the backside of the primary tensioning arm where the plunger rests:







This confirms to me that the timing chain was stretched and the terrible noise it made on cold start was the tensioning arm being pounded against the plunger.


One thing I don't understand is why it doesn't make this sound all the time? The plunger was completely extended...so even when the oil pressure comes up to normal, that was as far as it was going?


Other thing that worries me is that the new chain looks identical to the old chain. As Cord previously stated, is this going to happen again in 68k miles? What is causing these to stretch?