wont start
08-17-2008, 02:14 AM
#1
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wont start
I have a 88 f150, for what it is and what i paid, it ran great when i bought it. It quit running and it spewed alot of oil so my brother and I rebuilt the motor, the reason it quit running it thought was the fuel pump relay went bad, fomoco wants $130.00 for the one that came out, the guy in the service department said that one out of an 89 would work and sold me that part, it still wont start, we hotwired the fuel pump, (bypassed the relay) and it wouldnt start, the only way we can get it to do anything is to pour fuel into the throttle body, my question is where should i restart? it is a 5.8l, would injectors be the next step?, im lookin for the cheapest route possible. any help is greatly appreciated.
Last edited by laynejc; 08-17-2008 at 02:20 AM.
08-17-2008, 03:01 AM
#4
Did it run after the rebuild and then quit? Flames out the throttle body would indicate the timing is off. Either the timing chain isn't installed correctly or jumped time, or the distributor isn't installed correctly. It could be 180 degrees out. Also make sure the spark plug wires are in the proper order, for a 5.8 it is 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8. Cylinders are 1-4 on passenger side front to rear and 5-8 drivers side front to rear.
08-17-2008, 07:24 PM
#7
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Hi Sean, its Bill, been out of town and away from the fun. Agree, its out of time, or jumped upon start up, if old parts were used. Help me out about degreeing the new cam, this is stuff I have never been ventured into. Your intel is appreciated.
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08-17-2008, 09:59 PM
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how do you degree a cam? I had the rebuild kit sent to the machine shop, the shop is the best shop, 2nd best guy around this area, they did not assemble it, but they did check everything out and all of that good stuff, but if you could please tell me how to degree the cam. thanks
The block, heads, crank, and all the other internals were taken to the machine shop, the heads were rewoked, crank ground, they pressed the rods to the pistons, put in the cam bearings, bored it out 30, new freeze plugs, the usual you would have a machine shop do if you didnt have one, they did everything on the heads the valves and lifters, we put the pistons in the crank in, bolted the heads and the upper part of the motor on, the only old parts that were used: oil pan, timing chain cover, valve covers, intake and exhaust manifolds, fuel rail and injectors, new plugs, wires, has plenty of spark, if you have questions about any of the parts ask,
The block, heads, crank, and all the other internals were taken to the machine shop, the heads were rewoked, crank ground, they pressed the rods to the pistons, put in the cam bearings, bored it out 30, new freeze plugs, the usual you would have a machine shop do if you didnt have one, they did everything on the heads the valves and lifters, we put the pistons in the crank in, bolted the heads and the upper part of the motor on, the only old parts that were used: oil pan, timing chain cover, valve covers, intake and exhaust manifolds, fuel rail and injectors, new plugs, wires, has plenty of spark, if you have questions about any of the parts ask,
Last edited by laynejc; 08-17-2008 at 10:18 PM.
08-17-2008, 10:36 PM
#9
http://www.carcraft.com/howto/116_07...aft/index.html
This should explain it for you. I've never done it so I don't want to give incorrect information. I've just heard if the cam is ground off center and you put it in straight up it will be off, most of the time just a few degrees. It will affect the way the engine runs, or doesn't run in your case. Even if you don't want to go through the trouble of degreeing it, I still think it is one of the problems I stated above.
Also, you still didn't say if it ran after the rebuild or never ran since. That info might send us in a different direction.
This should explain it for you. I've never done it so I don't want to give incorrect information. I've just heard if the cam is ground off center and you put it in straight up it will be off, most of the time just a few degrees. It will affect the way the engine runs, or doesn't run in your case. Even if you don't want to go through the trouble of degreeing it, I still think it is one of the problems I stated above.
Also, you still didn't say if it ran after the rebuild or never ran since. That info might send us in a different direction.
08-19-2008, 06:10 AM
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If you rebuilt it, you probibly have a repair manual. Fallow the instructions for doing a KOEO (key on engine off) error code scan check manually by jumpering connections at the test harness & counting the blinks of the C/E Light. Or kragen auto carries a "For Fords only" OBD I Scan Reader for $39. in store & online. Then there's a bunch of other tests you can easily run. Worth every penny!