solenoid? Switch, leave it at that.
1)Remove the window motor, push and pull the window all the way up and down. Is there any mechanical binding? If yes, go to step 2.
2)Clean track of old white lithium grease and apply new WL grease on the tracks, window motor gear and everywhere there is movement. Is the reg still binding? If so, go to step 3:
3)Loosen window regulator bolts and shift the reg so the bolts are were the rivet outline used to be from the factory. Perform step 1 followed by step 3 until window glides up and down freely.
If the window still does not move freely with motor removed, check window regulator, door frame and upper window door frame guide for foreign material and damage.
When excessive mechanical window regulator resistance is not the problem, the only thing else I can think of at the moment is an underpowered supply of current to the window motor, creating an excessive electrical load to the window motor causing it to overheat.
To test this, perform a voltage drop across the load with a multimeter placing one lead on Y/R and one lead on R/Y.
The correct reading is seeing battery voltage across the load while operating the motor.
Note: Voltage drops can only be tested with the load in operation. If you are seeing anything less than battery voltage, you have a bad connection somewhere using up the valuable current needed to keep the motor happy and from burning up because it's forced to do more work in relation to how much power it's receiving.
You don't have to know everything, if you know where to find it.
When you do ask questions, you may look ignorant.
When you do NOT ask questions, you will STAY ignorant.
92' F150 XLT 351 2x4 E40D, had 3.08:1 stock, now with 3.55:1 Stock wheel and tire size