qdeezie

I will chime in with my two cents.

With regards to the TPS, I think it's better to shoot for something in the .80 to .90 range. This will help with any variances due to heat and expansion. The whole .99 thing in my opinion is pure myth because the computer adjusts for variances. The closer you adjust it to .99, the more of a chance you have of seeing it at or above 1v when the engine heats up. I'm sure people will want to debate, but setting it higher doesn't cause any more or less performance as far as I'm concerned.

With regards to other sensors, folks always say "why do you spend money when you don't have to", but my philosophy is that these parts are 20+ years old and should be replaced. Lots of times, you can literally grab the parts and wiggle it and it will snap off right in your hand or crumble like bread crumbs. Sensors and actuators such as the ECT, ACT, TPS, EGR Position, the DPFE and the IAC should be replaced or cleaned (in the case of the IAC).

Lots of times, you'd be surprised at the performance you will gain or regain just by swapping out these older parts. The performance is likely degraded, but not enough to set off a code.

These sensors are cheap and you can replace one sensor a month.

With regards to Motorcraft only parts, the IAC in my opinion is a Delphi or Motorcraft only part. Delphi makes the IAC for Ford and sells the exact IAC they make for Ford. I've had success with a Wells IAC valve as well, but if I had to replace mine again, I'd probably go with Delphi.

The EGR position sensor is a sort of Motorcraft, sorta not Motorcraft part. If you have a Motorcraft EGR valve on your truck, you will need to use a Motorcraft EGR position sensor. If you have an aftermarket EGR valve on your truck, you can use either a Motorcraft EGR position sensor or an aftermarket EGR position sensor. I've done trial and error on my truck to come up with that conclusion.

fltdriver

I agree with the replacing philosophy. If I'm doing something close to a part that looks original, or for some reason need to move it to get at something else I figure why not replace it. I'm also fairly proactive on replacing something before it actually needs it. I've always heard if it's not broke don't fix it, but honestly preventive maintenance is better for everything than just fixing things as they break or stop working. The damage that could be caused by a part failing at a bad time could cost some serious $$ to fix so I would rather replace a component that I know to be old.

Aktech

Why not just stock pile the parts and replace only when needed. Are going to replace the u joints and ball joints before they go bad?

fltdriver

I did, just because I had to replace the spindle on one side so I just did upper and lower on both sides since I had borrowed the press anyway. Proactive not reactive. I wouldn't advocate throwing parts at the truck to solve a specific problem without isolating it to a specific component but I am all for replacing things before they fail. If the part is still operational I will put it in my just in case box. I got light bulbs for everything on the truck in there, a serp belt, plug wires, all of the plastic vacuum lines I replaced with silicone, brake pads and shoes, lug nuts, upper and lower ball joint... that's all I can think of off the top of my head but I know there is quite a bit more in there.

VickMacky

Thanks for all the conversation guys. As for the issue, it hasn't happened since that day. Not sure what made it all of the sudden do it but it's been fine since. I'll keep an eye on it and see if I find a pattern.

As for replacing parts, my thoughts were I'm buying a 20 yr old truck that I have no maintenance records on and I would feel better knowing that some sensors and parts were replaced. Who knows how worn they are and how in efficient they were.

The Americana

Hey guy. I have to bump the gas to get mine to drop into a lower idle after a cold start too. Only if I'm impatient though. If I wait, it will eventually drop down on its own (but sometimes you just don't have time for that).
About gas mileage. I get about 11 on the hwy and 9 or 10 in the city. Not much point in driving with a light foot- trust me, I've been driving this truck for a while and have tried adjusting my driving style to milk more out of every gallon. I have a 4v carb and it sucks it down no matter what. Good new is, with the tow package we have (I think i read that you had the tow package), the truck won't be able to tell that you are towing anything back there (gas mileage won't change a bit)! Enjoy your truck!

VickMacky

Thanks. I Always thought that fuel injection would be more effective than a carb. It makes me feel better that my mileage is more normal then I thought. I do have a very light foot and still get ~12 average.

Honestly IDK if I have the tow package. How would I tell? I have a trailer wiring harness under the back end but no hitch. I can't even tow with my truck lol. It also has an oil cooler and uses the stock tranny cooler in the radiator. I also have skid plates under the tranny/transfer case and gas tanks. Limited skip rear end too. It's an XLT 4x4 so I'm not sure what options are towing package specific or XLT specific.

The Americana

Yep, that's about as good as you're going to get in terms of MPG... especially with a 4x4- I guess that's why some of us place more value on Smiles per gallon!
The tell-tale sign of a tow package would be a 3-speed transmission. It would have a big rear end that translates most of that gas power into torque and tug-power rather that speed. Not sure why you have the skid plates, but that's pretty cool!

Chris_1

iTrader: (1)

Trailer towing package includes the big rad (2 1/4"), Tranny cooler, and front and rear anti-sway bars

choate

Hmm I'm gonna have to check mine out. The guy that sold it told me said it had "a towing package" but I'm not sure I have all that. It is wired and all and I have a harness to hook up to a trailor and a hitch but not sure about sway bars. Mine also does have skid plates too.