I have two ground cables other than the battery cable. One is mounted to the air intake and the other is on the driver side but I don't know where it goes. I'm sure it is mounted to the block somewhere but I'm not sure where. It is a 1990 Ford F-150 XLT Lariat with a 300 c.i. Inline 6 cylinder motor I have rebuilt but can't get to start but it does turn over. So if anyone has any tricks on starting a rebuilt motor that information would be very appreciated as well. -Thanks
The starter mount bolt is very common as it insures adequate circuit completion path for starter function.Method of dis/reconnect elect connections can cause fuses to blow.check for spark at plugs, fuel present in injector rail. Timing chain/belt syncro using TDC/#1 on the exhaust stroke instead of the completion of the compression stroke(tdc/cyl. occurs twice per cycle of engine)is a common f/u putting timeing 180 out. Engine demonstrates all the reqs for operation, but not at the proper time.
Last edited by ymeski56; 07-15-2008 at 04:50 PM.
Ford has always grounded battery negative to the block. An additional metal braided wire went from firewall to intake manifold. There could be additional bonding wires like to fender or some other similiar metal locations. Most likely your starting or not starting concern is something else. I would first recommend removing #1 spark plug. Rotate engine by hand untill air is expelling out of plug hole. Continue rotating untill timing pointer is aligned to mark on harmonic balancer. Check to verify if rotor is now pointed at #1 tower on distributor. I'll bet you timed it to the exhaust stroke of #1 instead of compression stroke. Been there, done that!
Thats 2 bt/dts votes. also, it secure reconnection of all grounding jumpers for proper component/sensor function should not be underestimated, with haunting effects long after the rebuild as been done.
My battery is grouded to the frame on the front of the vehicle, next to the radiator. The ground for the block is there but I don't know how to mount it to the block. The only other grounds that I know of are for the windshield wiper motors and the light on the hood. I've removed the #1 spark plug and turned the vibration damper by hand until TDC and the distributor is set to the #1 piston. I'm thinking a ground could cause it to not start or a bad/faulty connection to the starter. It tries hard to start but it jusy won't fire up. I put motor oil in the spark plug holes and turned the motor over until it is all expelled to lubricate the cylinders and that helped, but she still won't fire up. I've even tried spraying starter fluid into the air intake and still no luck. I'd link batteries together but it would fry my "brain" and I would be right back where i started. Fuel does reach the rail and injectors and i replaced the relay switch for the fuel pump so there is pressure in the EFI system.
Mount engine grounding at any metal part of an engine, block or head preferred. You may use a jumper wire for a temp connection. Make sure you do have a spark - just any spark, no matter if it's weak and yellow. Make sure that all the vacuum lines are connected. Check again that you've set the timing right. Take a look at the plugs - there must be no oil left and they must be dry for the first start. If they are wet - clean them up with soft clothing or replace them with any clean plugs. If it turns - it should start. There can be no miracles with a truck made in USA
There are three ways to do it - good one, bad one and russian one
Had a personal conversation just about this with a fellow member. About people asking for help or an opinion but having their minds made up as to what to do next. Just so I'm not at fault as to what you said as to my suggestion. Did you pull # 1 plug and make sure you are on compression stroke while turning the engine over in direction of rotation. If you have a compression gauge, use it, air is displaced as piston moves upward. If exhaust valve is closed, some sort or reading should be present. If on exhaust stroke reading will be nothing or next to nothing because the air displaced is exiting the cylinder two places, the exhaust valve and into the compression gauge. We have to be on the correct stroke or this engine will never run. Sorry if I seem beligerant, I have more faith in your installation, than I do in this very common error that we all have made. About your battery Neg cable going to the frame next to the radiator, this I guess is all fine and good, as long as that same size cable goes from the frame to ENGINE BLOCK. This post is getting to lengthy and its been a very long day for this old Fart. Actually , I hope you've go it going already. Seeing that engine smoke is better than sex. God, I am old!
My truck has 2 additional ground wires at the battery negative. They look like main engine harness grounds, make sure they are attached. Check your sensors for ground by checking for continuity from negative terminal to negative of sensors.
Originally Posted by Early Cuyler
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