SpecV44

Im guessing since my L-6 has a true distributor and coil, the timing advance isnt controlled by the EEC. What should my timing be set at? Is there any special way to set the timing? I know how to do it on carb'd chevy's, but never done it to a ford. Clockwise adds timing, counter clockwise takes it out? Should full timing be in by 3k like a SBC? Im looking for the best gas mileage i can get, and the timing is on my list to check out. A walkthrough would be great Thanks guys!

farmer12

http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/show...ht=timing+bump

Do that...it works the same on the 6 cyl as the v8s.

Get yerself a timing light, dont just try and do it by listening, thats a pretty inaccurate way to do it.

cfl3794

You'll need a timing light for sure. Farmer 12's sight looked like it knew what it was talking about.

SpecV44

I have 2 timing lights, so that isnt a problem. Thanks guys!

BigGreyBox

just make sure you pull out the spout before you check or adjust the timing.

SpecV44

Yeah, I read the instructions. What is the spout for?

ymeski56

It's common for the RPM to increase w/ further advance of they timing. Ping is the biggest determinant factor as to how far you can advance. Personally, I advance incrementally until I detect ping under load (even a hint of ping!) and then retard 2 degrees, then test under load again. So ping at 17BTDC, you' probably end you up at 15BTDC. Err on the side of safety. Back to the RPM creep. Someone that goes from 10BTDC to 13 BTDC and exhibits ping under load, usually didn't notice that his Idle RPM had creeped up to 950. And that's where the ping under load actually was caused by. So, if RPM creep with timing advance occurs, (everything should be done w/ engine at normal operating temp) While you have your foot on the accelerator at idle (presumabaly at higher than normal idle RPM) have someone disconnect the IAC. If the IAC is functional, the idle will plunge and try to stall. This is where you catch the falling idle w/ the accelerator and correct to normal idle RPM (say 675 for 8 cyls.) After it stabilizes, maintain that idle RPM for 2 mins., then shut off the engine, reconnect the IAC. And after 1 minute, restart. You should have your timing advance at normal idle speed. This also works for engines that Idle RPM"s are out of wack at 10 BTDC. Assuming no active codes, vac leaks, or other engine maladies. I can run my engine higher than 16BTDC but I don't do it or recommend it with a daily driver. I think sooner or later, running further advance will come back to bite you when you aren't expecting it & at the worst possible time! Advancing timing will increase combustion chamber temps. & I've had better luck w/ stock Motorcrafts than Plats as they displace the heat more quickly and efficiently at stock gap (also according to Motorcraft, their stock copper cores are designed to melt themselves before piston damage occurs) . When you upgrade your ignition system & srtretch your gap, ingition is accomplished more with spark kernel exposure than w/ stock gap intensity and associated hi temps. Even the Plats generate less combustion temp heat w/ the gap stretched. But the spark does have to make the gap stretch, so you need the ignition upgrade to make the leap & with consistency. It's a good idea to desludge your engine (Seafoam, treating combustion chambers and crankcase) & Flush your coolant system to increase the engine's ability to transfer heat away from the combustion chambers. Once the chambers reach temps that produce ping, it's a real b*tch to get their temps back down below the threshold. Also try to stick w/ 87 octane!! Another thing you can do to promote lower C/C temps is flush & drain your coolant system & refill w/ distilled water & 40% antifreeze (weather permitting).

ymeski56

The Spout (SPARKout) plug Removes ECU timing advance control. When the plug is removed, your timing you'll be looking at is your actual Base Time. When the plug is in place, it's your at base timing plus ECU advance. Timing adjustments must be done w/ the spout out!!!! The performance change from 10BTDC to 13.5 is much more noticeable than 13.5 BTDC to 16 BTDC. Personally, I wouldn't run a daily driver advanced over 16 BTDC. Also, many people actually prefer the drivability behavior at 14 BTDC as compared to 16 BTDC, so experiment! Compression doesn't seem to be that critical as long as your compression is balanced, however you have to expect some additional stress to the engine but even this is influences by the general health of the engine. So if you have some pronounced taps, ticks & knocks, a timing bump may not be a door you want to open, especially if it's your only mode of transportation. I hear bus passes are really getting expensive.

dr_bowtie

Since 1986 the timing is controlled by an ECU.....doesnt matter what the distributor is as long as it is factory....

you want to give the timing as much lead as you can get away with and not Ping...14 deg is a good round number

SpecV44

alright, cool i think i got it now.

i need to flush the cooling system out, as I need to change the thermostat anyway (heat isnt very warm).

I only run 87, as it is the cheapest. My daily 2008 HHR SS (turbocharged) gets 93, but boost likes octane.

the motor has been seafoamed, injector cleaned, plugs, wires, coolant temp sensor changed, checked for vacuum leaks.

it is funny that you mentioned the high idle, my truck idles at 1,000rpm when warm. i think if i could get it to idle ~700-750 it would increase my gas mileage a little bit. I will have to check that sensor when I check the timing.