What to look for when buying a 87-96 F150
11-05-2014, 10:29 PM
#1
1994 F150 XLT 5.8L 2wd
Thread Starter
What to look for when buying a 87-96 F150
I've seen countless posts about people asking what to look for, which is smart, why not ask the people that already have this truck what the major and common problems are and tips on getting a good vehicle. So... I figured we needed a thread to reference instead of people having to keep giving the same advice over and over again. Feel free to post anything that you think is critical or even just a good idea to look at, I will add to this post as I think of stuff and will also add what gets suggested to this first post so it's easy to find.
Things to take with you:
Vacuum Gauge
Fuel Pressure Tester ("borrow" from any auto parts store)
Bright Flashlight
Paperclip or short piece of wire (sorry 96 guys you need an OBD11 reader)
I will list these in the order I would examine them in:
Exterior:
Rust, dents, and scratches will be common on 20+ old vehicles but look at where the panels are mounted to the frame, there shouldn't be anything more than slight surface rust here. Panels are easy to replace, replacing the brackets usually requires welding and a lot more work.
Check the gaps of panels, hood, doors, they should be evenly spaced and all line up, if they don't it's a good sign that the truck was in an accident or someone has removed them and didn't take the time to line them up which leads one to think they may have done the same thing to whatever they were working on.
Check the suspension components, if they are covered in rust/crud then they will probably need to be replaced in the near future, if they look fairly new then you are probably set for a few years. Look at bushings (cracked, dried out), mounts (rusted), ball joints (if they have grease zerks on the bottom side of all 4 of them then they have been replaced).
Engine Bay:
Exhaust manifolds will probably be rusty, that is to be expected. Is there excessive oil/engine grime? Check to ensure they haven't closed off the heater core (unless you are lucky enough to never need heat). Examine anything they said that they have replaced (motorcraft parts=they spent money for the good stuff, duralast parts=they are cheap, beware). Visually check condition of wires and connectors, anything covered in crud or look like it's worn, pull one or two that are easy to reach and look for "green death" on the prongs and in the female terminals.
Run your finger around the ends of all of the hoses to check for leaks, same with water pump and thermostat housing. Check hoses for wear and rot, any "redneck" patching. Check the condition of serp belt, if able to use a ratchet or wrench to release tensionor and check for free and easy movement of pulleys.
Check fluids for proper fill level, do they smell or look burnt? Check the brake fluid (this is my best indicator), if it looks like coffee they probably haven't kept up very well on basic maintenance, if it's just a little caramel colored you know that they have done it in the past year or two, if it's clear they just did it and that would make me a little leery, could have just been time or they could be trying to cover up their forgetting to do it for the past ten years. Brake fluid sucks moisture out of the air and given enough time (and moisture) it will rust the brake lines from the inside out. Check the bottom of the bay for any obvious leaks both on ground and dripping/running down the oil pan, trans housing, on the exhaust pipe, under radiator, I-beams, just anywhere.
Pull vac lines (one at a time) from the vac tree on top of intake, check each by applying vacuum, it should hold steady, do this for everyone but the fat break booster line in the middle. Remove the brake booster line from it's housing (big circle on firewall) and attach your vac gauge, start the engine and watch the gauge. As it warms up it may increase a couple points, after about 2 minutes it should be holding steady at 18-22hg, if it is fluctuating or dropping (a very slight movement can be caused by engine vibration but won't move the needle more than 1/10th, just look like it's vibrating-this is ok) this engine has problems and you should just walk away.
Reconnect booster line
Turn the engine off, attach fuel pressure tester, Turn the key to run, you may need to do this a couple times depending on the gauge, you will hear the pump run then shut off after 2 seconds. Once you get ~40psi leave the key off and wait for a couple of minutes, it is supposed to drop slightly but no major drops (fuel delivery problems can be a PITA). Start the engine, FP should remain steady. Take this time to check the Automatic Transmission Fluid since the engine should be warm by now. Shut the truck off and watch the gauge for a couple of minutes. Good time to be asking more questions, also watch the owners face for concerned looks as you are doing tests, if he is noticeably agitated it may mean there is something wrong that he hopes you don't uncover. FP gauge should still read within 5-10psi of where it was when engine was running.
Interior
Not really much to check here, these were work trucks so rips, stains, scratches, fading are all common. Check the climate controls, do they go from cold to hot (and work), AC work, etc...
Check the horn, lights, blinkers, brake lights, hazards. Are you getting sound from all of the speakers?
Test Drive
Brakes squeal? Does it pull when braking? Drive straight without holding the wheel? When you turn do the wheels straighten themselves back out?...brake/alignment issues
Listen for noises when driving, both with windows up and down. Popping, grinding, etc... will need to be investigated.
Test the cruise if equipped. Make sure you get up to 65mph, any vibrations or shaking should manifest themselves by this point.
After
Pull the codes (96 guys stop by a auto parts store and have them pulled for free) after the test drive, it's easy for an owner to clear any codes before you look at a vehicle but after the test drive any codes will return, pull codes even if the CEL isn't illuminated. Use your phone to research the codes. It will help to record the blinks with your camera so you can ensure you are reading them right. Do both the KOEO and KOER tests, read up on the KOER test because there are things you must do to complete the test accurately.
When setting up to pull the codes check for any leaks in coolant, oil, or trans fluid, sometimes leaks are easier to spot right after a drive.
Common Problems:
Tank Cross filling-usually requires dropping tank and replacing pump assembly.
Idle issues-multiple factors could be involved, usually not expensive to fix but tracking down the cause can take some time and knowledge
Leaks-not expensive if you replace gaskets yourself but depending on what is leaking it can be very labor intensive
Climate control issues-usually vacuum leak, clogged or damaged heater core, AC issues can be expensive to repair.
Rust-once it starts it's hard to stop, body rust doesn't effect the durability of the truck but would indicate that the frame is probably rusting as well.
Airbag Clock Spring-will disable horn and cruise control, easy fix ~$50
Window motors/regulators-not too expensive, motor is easier to replace than regulator, sometimes motor can be repaired as the white plastic triangle inside the housing breaks, weak motor must be replaced.
I can't say how beneficial it would be to take someone with you that has owned one of these trucks, you can explain stuff all day long but nothing tops first hand experience. Be weary of "redneck" ingenuity, there are many things that can be done to this truck to make it better but they must be done properly otherwise you end up chasing gremlins for the life of the truck. E-fan upgrade is good as long as it's done right. Smog pump removal can be beneficial, as long as it's done right.
If you have any suggestions post them and I will add to this later. I don't really have experience with 4x4's so if anyone has thoughts on that I will be happy to add them.
Things to take with you:
Vacuum Gauge
Fuel Pressure Tester ("borrow" from any auto parts store)
Bright Flashlight
Paperclip or short piece of wire (sorry 96 guys you need an OBD11 reader)
I will list these in the order I would examine them in:
Exterior:
Rust, dents, and scratches will be common on 20+ old vehicles but look at where the panels are mounted to the frame, there shouldn't be anything more than slight surface rust here. Panels are easy to replace, replacing the brackets usually requires welding and a lot more work.
Check the gaps of panels, hood, doors, they should be evenly spaced and all line up, if they don't it's a good sign that the truck was in an accident or someone has removed them and didn't take the time to line them up which leads one to think they may have done the same thing to whatever they were working on.
Check the suspension components, if they are covered in rust/crud then they will probably need to be replaced in the near future, if they look fairly new then you are probably set for a few years. Look at bushings (cracked, dried out), mounts (rusted), ball joints (if they have grease zerks on the bottom side of all 4 of them then they have been replaced).
Engine Bay:
Exhaust manifolds will probably be rusty, that is to be expected. Is there excessive oil/engine grime? Check to ensure they haven't closed off the heater core (unless you are lucky enough to never need heat). Examine anything they said that they have replaced (motorcraft parts=they spent money for the good stuff, duralast parts=they are cheap, beware). Visually check condition of wires and connectors, anything covered in crud or look like it's worn, pull one or two that are easy to reach and look for "green death" on the prongs and in the female terminals.
Run your finger around the ends of all of the hoses to check for leaks, same with water pump and thermostat housing. Check hoses for wear and rot, any "redneck" patching. Check the condition of serp belt, if able to use a ratchet or wrench to release tensionor and check for free and easy movement of pulleys.
Check fluids for proper fill level, do they smell or look burnt? Check the brake fluid (this is my best indicator), if it looks like coffee they probably haven't kept up very well on basic maintenance, if it's just a little caramel colored you know that they have done it in the past year or two, if it's clear they just did it and that would make me a little leery, could have just been time or they could be trying to cover up their forgetting to do it for the past ten years. Brake fluid sucks moisture out of the air and given enough time (and moisture) it will rust the brake lines from the inside out. Check the bottom of the bay for any obvious leaks both on ground and dripping/running down the oil pan, trans housing, on the exhaust pipe, under radiator, I-beams, just anywhere.
Pull vac lines (one at a time) from the vac tree on top of intake, check each by applying vacuum, it should hold steady, do this for everyone but the fat break booster line in the middle. Remove the brake booster line from it's housing (big circle on firewall) and attach your vac gauge, start the engine and watch the gauge. As it warms up it may increase a couple points, after about 2 minutes it should be holding steady at 18-22hg, if it is fluctuating or dropping (a very slight movement can be caused by engine vibration but won't move the needle more than 1/10th, just look like it's vibrating-this is ok) this engine has problems and you should just walk away.
Turn the engine off, attach fuel pressure tester, Turn the key to run, you may need to do this a couple times depending on the gauge, you will hear the pump run then shut off after 2 seconds. Once you get ~40psi leave the key off and wait for a couple of minutes, it is supposed to drop slightly but no major drops (fuel delivery problems can be a PITA). Start the engine, FP should remain steady. Take this time to check the Automatic Transmission Fluid since the engine should be warm by now. Shut the truck off and watch the gauge for a couple of minutes. Good time to be asking more questions, also watch the owners face for concerned looks as you are doing tests, if he is noticeably agitated it may mean there is something wrong that he hopes you don't uncover. FP gauge should still read within 5-10psi of where it was when engine was running.
Interior
Not really much to check here, these were work trucks so rips, stains, scratches, fading are all common. Check the climate controls, do they go from cold to hot (and work), AC work, etc...
Check the horn, lights, blinkers, brake lights, hazards. Are you getting sound from all of the speakers?
Test Drive
Brakes squeal? Does it pull when braking? Drive straight without holding the wheel? When you turn do the wheels straighten themselves back out?...brake/alignment issues
Listen for noises when driving, both with windows up and down. Popping, grinding, etc... will need to be investigated.
Test the cruise if equipped. Make sure you get up to 65mph, any vibrations or shaking should manifest themselves by this point.
After
Pull the codes (96 guys stop by a auto parts store and have them pulled for free) after the test drive, it's easy for an owner to clear any codes before you look at a vehicle but after the test drive any codes will return, pull codes even if the CEL isn't illuminated. Use your phone to research the codes. It will help to record the blinks with your camera so you can ensure you are reading them right. Do both the KOEO and KOER tests, read up on the KOER test because there are things you must do to complete the test accurately.
When setting up to pull the codes check for any leaks in coolant, oil, or trans fluid, sometimes leaks are easier to spot right after a drive.
Common Problems:
Tank Cross filling-usually requires dropping tank and replacing pump assembly.
Idle issues-multiple factors could be involved, usually not expensive to fix but tracking down the cause can take some time and knowledge
Leaks-not expensive if you replace gaskets yourself but depending on what is leaking it can be very labor intensive
Climate control issues-usually vacuum leak, clogged or damaged heater core, AC issues can be expensive to repair.
Rust-once it starts it's hard to stop, body rust doesn't effect the durability of the truck but would indicate that the frame is probably rusting as well.
Airbag Clock Spring-will disable horn and cruise control, easy fix ~$50
Window motors/regulators-not too expensive, motor is easier to replace than regulator, sometimes motor can be repaired as the white plastic triangle inside the housing breaks, weak motor must be replaced.
I can't say how beneficial it would be to take someone with you that has owned one of these trucks, you can explain stuff all day long but nothing tops first hand experience. Be weary of "redneck" ingenuity, there are many things that can be done to this truck to make it better but they must be done properly otherwise you end up chasing gremlins for the life of the truck. E-fan upgrade is good as long as it's done right. Smog pump removal can be beneficial, as long as it's done right.
If you have any suggestions post them and I will add to this later. I don't really have experience with 4x4's so if anyone has thoughts on that I will be happy to add them.
Last edited by fltdriver; 11-06-2014 at 10:12 PM.
11-06-2014, 07:36 PM
#3
1994 F150 XLT 5.8L 2wd
Thread Starter
I thought about adding something about carfax but doesn't seem to me like there would be much info considering most owners do the majority of their own maintenance and repairs.
11-06-2014, 10:15 PM
#4
I wouldn't think a carfax would be of much use for a vehicle that is 20 yrs old. Maybe Im not as sticky as some ppl but obviously these trucks are used and are going to have wear. I do understand wanting to know about collisions and things like that, but common sense and a thorough look over is going to get you further than a carfax report on these older trucks.
11-06-2014, 10:39 PM
#5
Biggest thing I look for is rust underneath. Body mounts - all 4 cab mounts and the cab floor, the rails under the box, the rad saddle mounts and the frame (which will have some, but how heavy).
Then start looking for what's new - what isn't new will probably need to be at some point (battery, starter alternator, brakes, tires, exhaust). Those things wear out and have to be replaced.
And pretty much all of them will need new steel brake lines and probably new gas tanks.
And of course, the parking brake - if it works good, that's a good sign. If it doesn't work or sticks on, that's a bad sign.
And all that stuff fltdriver posted too, or at least as much as you can check out.
Good rule of thumb - under 1500 look it over as best as you can and if it all looks good, make the best deal you can and hope for the best.
Over 1500 get it to a shop for an inspection first. YOU will have to pay about 60-75 bucks for that but before you throw your hard earned cash on the table best to really know what you're buying.
And hardly anybody posts their bottom dollar as an asking price - don't be afraid to offer less, like 2/3. He can always counter offer.
Then start looking for what's new - what isn't new will probably need to be at some point (battery, starter alternator, brakes, tires, exhaust). Those things wear out and have to be replaced.
And pretty much all of them will need new steel brake lines and probably new gas tanks.
And of course, the parking brake - if it works good, that's a good sign. If it doesn't work or sticks on, that's a bad sign.
And all that stuff fltdriver posted too, or at least as much as you can check out.
Good rule of thumb - under 1500 look it over as best as you can and if it all looks good, make the best deal you can and hope for the best.
Over 1500 get it to a shop for an inspection first. YOU will have to pay about 60-75 bucks for that but before you throw your hard earned cash on the table best to really know what you're buying.
And hardly anybody posts their bottom dollar as an asking price - don't be afraid to offer less, like 2/3. He can always counter offer.
11-06-2014, 10:44 PM
#6
Senior Member
I think the new owner should remove the valve cover to assess whether or not the engine has any sort of carbon/sludge buildup.
Lots of previous owners suck when it comes to maintaining these trucks.
Lots of previous owners suck when it comes to maintaining these trucks.
11-15-2014, 01:09 PM
#7
Senior Member
Checking engine compression is a good idea if you want to take the time to do it. Doesn't take too long, and gives you an idea of the engine condition. If it has good compression, then its safe to say it hasn't been dogged out and as been at least decently maintained. Not always true, but its good to check. If it fires right up, then its safe to say it has good compression. If it idles smoothly, then its safe to say it has even compression.
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11-18-2014, 08:52 PM
#9
fltdriver - great thread, nice job!
For a measly $25 you can check codes without much fanfare with one of these:
***
It is worth paying another $25 for the extension cord: ***
I've checked codes manually but after you've done that a few times one of these is worth its weight in gold. It's worth the $50.
For a measly $25 you can check codes without much fanfare with one of these:
***
It is worth paying another $25 for the extension cord: ***
I've checked codes manually but after you've done that a few times one of these is worth its weight in gold. It's worth the $50.
Last edited by 87XL; 11-18-2014 at 08:55 PM.
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