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my E-fan melted ANOTHER relay

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Old 05-26-2012, 06:29 PM
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so i have an e-fan on my truck as stated in the title. its a 1993 5.0 4x4 and this is the second relay my fan has just demolished. the first melted along with the inline fuse i had. i cut out the fise and just hard wired it, and now my relay is gone. i talked to my electrician at my work and he said its probable the motor is bad.

im going to wire in a toggle switch to bypass for now, but am going to replace my fan next weekend. what kind of vehicle should i get an efan from? im going to the JY because i dont wanna spend an arm and a leg on an aftermarket kit. i've heard some guys using 96 to i think 02 chrysler dual fans? please correct me if i'm wrong. and i do plan on measuring twice before pulling it and should i also replace my fan controller? i just got a $50 one from autozone. which will support dual fans.

just wanna know what you guys think. i do plan on keeping the toggle switch wired up as well in case i come across some deep water off-roading.
Old 05-26-2012, 06:36 PM
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What gauge wire are you running? It may not be enough for the amount of draw the fan has for the circuit. Which will cause the wire to get very hot. Which will melt things
Old 05-26-2012, 06:44 PM
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if i remember correctly it's 12 maybe 10 gauge. it's pretty thick. but the wiring to the contoller itself is a thinner gauge.
Old 05-26-2012, 06:46 PM
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My Chrysler Dual E-Fans are great! Quiet and move allot of air. They do not even come on while driving down the road. I had to get some bracket material for a correct fit, but I'll never go back to a regular fan.
Edit.............A higher amp controller is great, but I'm running an adjustable $18 controller from Advance Auto. When you go to the salvage yard, pull a couple fan relays while your there and let your controller trigger a relay for each fan as you can see in the pic below. My wires are cool and do not heat up with the fans running. I am using heavy gauge wire.

Last edited by unit505; 05-26-2012 at 07:03 PM.
Old 05-26-2012, 07:15 PM
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Originally Posted by unit505
My Chrysler Dual E-Fans are great! Quiet and move allot of air. They do not even come on while driving down the road. I had to get some bracket material for a correct fit, but I'll never go back to a regular fan.
Edit.............A higher amp controller is great, but I'm running an adjustable $18 controller from Advance Auto. When you go to the salvage yard, pull a couple fan relays while your there and let your controller trigger a relay for each fan as you can see in the pic below. My wires are cool and do not heat up with the fans running. I am using heavy gauge wire.

do you have each fan set up to come on at different temps? and the wiring closest to the battery (the boxes) is that the controller or something else? would you mind pm'ing me how you wired it all up if you can? i can wire and i can solder decent, but good directions never hurt lol
and what chrysler did you get your fans from? thats the exact set up im looking to do.

and off topic, but where in the world did you find that air filter? thats awsome
Old 05-26-2012, 07:44 PM
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I can PM you, but the info might help others. The fan fits a bunch of chrysler's from 98-04. 300's, Dynasty's, Concord, intrepid, LHS.

Here's the diagram that I used for my relay wiring.

There is a 20amp Maxi Fuse towards the engine side of the under hood fuse box that is only hot with the ignition on. I used this to trigger the fan controller. I then used the fan trigger on the controller and ran two wires from it to terminal 85 on each relay. Terminal 86 on each relay gets grounded to the chassis. Terminal 30 on each relay goes direct to the battery. Terminal 87 on each relay goes to one of the fan hotwires. The two black ground wires on the fans get grounded to the chassis as well. Terminal 87a (Center) does not get used on either relay. Both of my fans kick in at the same time. I'd have to buy a dual temp controller or two separate controllers set at different temps. The chrysler fans don't pull a ton of juice. I drop about 1 volt at startup and it levels off about one half volt after a couple seconds. Let me know if you need any more guidance. Hope this helps.
Old 05-26-2012, 08:16 PM
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Just me. But I would have hidden all that wiring. I had 12 gauge and the insulation was cool. But the actual wire got hot as hell. Melted my switch
Old 05-26-2012, 08:36 PM
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thanks man. it did help. with both relays so close together i thought it was one block. and the controller from advanced, do you have a part number or a better picture of it? it looks totally different than mine. but im thinkin that running my own relays like you did will allow me to run a thicker gauge wire as well.

(edit) i just went out and checked and my controller is toast as well...lol i got a toggle switch from work so i can at least run the fans til i get it all replaced next weekend. its been in the 90+ here the past couple days so theres no way i can run the truck without the fan lol i printed off the pictures and instructions you gave.

i need to run a wire from my ac to the fan to have it kick on with my ac. would it be better to run two controllers and just have the second fan come on with the AC or just have them both run off the same controller? i rarely use my AC. so its not a big deal either way.

Last edited by 1990-5.0-4x4; 05-26-2012 at 09:16 PM.
Old 05-26-2012, 09:39 PM
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Originally Posted by 90customf150
Just me. But I would have hidden all that wiring. I had 12 gauge and the insulation was cool. But the actual wire got hot as hell. Melted my switch
The controller is meant to be in the engine bay. Hiding it would only hinder airflow to the controller and wiring. I don't know what gauge wiring I am running, but the hot and grounds are from an old ATV winch that I had laying around and it is very well insulated and very thick, 6 or 8 gauge if I had to guess. I monitor under hood temps via my air intake temp gauge and with 92*F outside today and an hour of driving, my under hood temps spiked at 144*F. If the controller melted, I'd chalk that up to too small diameter wiring. 6 or 8 gauge wiring along with dual relays keeps the controller cool. Small diameter wiring will create too much resistance (heat) and will damage the controller and the fans. Also note where I mounted my controller. It gets plenty of air from between the grill and hood. You gotta go larger diameter than 12 gauge IMO. I've started replacing allot of my previous wiring projects because of small issues (thin, cheap wires) and wound up having better performance out of all of them.
Old 05-26-2012, 09:43 PM
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Originally Posted by 1990-5.0-4x4
thanks man. it did help. with both relays so close together i thought it was one block. and the controller from advanced, do you have a part number or a better picture of it? it looks totally different than mine. but im thinkin that running my own relays like you did will allow me to run a thicker gauge wire as well.

(edit) i just went out and checked and my controller is toast as well...lol i got a toggle switch from work so i can at least run the fans til i get it all replaced next weekend. its been in the 90+ here the past couple days so theres no way i can run the truck without the fan lol i printed off the pictures and instructions you gave.

i need to run a wire from my ac to the fan to have it kick on with my ac. would it be better to run two controllers and just have the second fan come on with the AC or just have them both run off the same controller? i rarely use my AC. so its not a big deal either way.
My AC is out. I could disconnect one of the fans and check temps tomorrow. My guess is that the fan closest to the upper radiator hose would be your full time fan and the one closest the passenger's side would be your AC fan. The left fan would probably run longer before it shuts off, but I have no doubt that the single MOPAR fan will do the job.


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