Upgrading Headlight Wiring for More Power
#1
1994 F150 XLT 5.8L 2wd
Thread Starter
Upgrading Headlight Wiring for More Power
I already have HID projectors but did this just in case the ballasts go out or I decide to go back to stock.
Here is a link to another write up that I followed.
I did some things differently so I will detail my process:
2 relays 30/40 amp
2 relay sockets with 14ga wire for the #87
2 9007 headlight wiring extensions with 14ga wire
40 amp inline fuse with 10ga wire
20 ft of 14ga wire (10ft red, 10ft black)
Some male and female 1/4" spade connectors
Eyelet for grounding
Pull 87a out of both sockets, attach eyelet to one of them
I wired the relay sockets as followed:
85
connected both 85 wires together and connected to the 87a with eyelet.
30
connected both 30 wires together and connected to 40 amp inline fuse
86
Relay 1 connected 1ft piece of red
Relay 2 connected 1ft piece of black
87
Relay 1 spliced 1ft piece of red and 8ft piece of red
Relay 2 spliced 1ft piece of red and 8ft piece of black
Mount relays next to battery
Cut the two outside wires of one of the wiring extensions in the middle, connect 86red to one side of the connector (I used brown) that will plug into factory connector and 86black to the other side (I used black)of same connector. Now connect 87red 1ft to the same side but the connector that goes to the light, same again with 87black 1ft.
Run the two 8ft pieces through the empty space in frame in front of radiator.
Pull the two outside wires from the connector on the second extension from the side that hooks to the factory connector, cut the ends off and connect the black to (I used black) and red to (I used brown).
The middle wire is left intact on both to utilize the factory ground.
Connect the eyelet attached to 85 to the ground bolt next to battery.
Connect inline fuse to battery, install fuse.
There is no need to damage the factory wiring using my method so it can be removed at any point. The 14ga wire allows more power to the headlights and doesn't tax the factory wiring so you will get no dimming when other components are turned on or kick in.
Wiring skills: basic
Tools: basic
Time: less than an hour if you keep on task
Edit: Everywhere I say connect I used spade connectors, spliced I just twisted and soldered but you could get a couple piggyback spade connectors and do the same thing.
Here is a link to another write up that I followed.
I did some things differently so I will detail my process:
2 relays 30/40 amp
2 relay sockets with 14ga wire for the #87
2 9007 headlight wiring extensions with 14ga wire
40 amp inline fuse with 10ga wire
20 ft of 14ga wire (10ft red, 10ft black)
Some male and female 1/4" spade connectors
Eyelet for grounding
Pull 87a out of both sockets, attach eyelet to one of them
I wired the relay sockets as followed:
85
connected both 85 wires together and connected to the 87a with eyelet.
30
connected both 30 wires together and connected to 40 amp inline fuse
86
Relay 1 connected 1ft piece of red
Relay 2 connected 1ft piece of black
87
Relay 1 spliced 1ft piece of red and 8ft piece of red
Relay 2 spliced 1ft piece of red and 8ft piece of black
Mount relays next to battery
Cut the two outside wires of one of the wiring extensions in the middle, connect 86red to one side of the connector (I used brown) that will plug into factory connector and 86black to the other side (I used black)of same connector. Now connect 87red 1ft to the same side but the connector that goes to the light, same again with 87black 1ft.
Run the two 8ft pieces through the empty space in frame in front of radiator.
Pull the two outside wires from the connector on the second extension from the side that hooks to the factory connector, cut the ends off and connect the black to (I used black) and red to (I used brown).
The middle wire is left intact on both to utilize the factory ground.
Connect the eyelet attached to 85 to the ground bolt next to battery.
Connect inline fuse to battery, install fuse.
There is no need to damage the factory wiring using my method so it can be removed at any point. The 14ga wire allows more power to the headlights and doesn't tax the factory wiring so you will get no dimming when other components are turned on or kick in.
Wiring skills: basic
Tools: basic
Time: less than an hour if you keep on task
Edit: Everywhere I say connect I used spade connectors, spliced I just twisted and soldered but you could get a couple piggyback spade connectors and do the same thing.
Last edited by fltdriver; 10-23-2014 at 11:07 PM.