Understanding Trouble Codes 111, 211, 172
11-01-2009, 01:34 AM
#22
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The vacuum lines are in tip top shape, no cracks or leaks.
I suppose I should bring it to a shop and have it tested for fuel pressure, make sure its not the pump that the problem, or the regulator valve (in reference to the lean mixture problem).
You had said earlier that these two problems (EGR insufficient flow and lean mixture) are often related?
On a side note, after installing the new distributor with a new cap and rotor, cleaning up all my contacts, using some di-electric grease, so on and so forth, I have managed to significantly improve my gas mileage. I was getting 120km to half a tank, Im getting about 190km to half a tank now
I suppose I should bring it to a shop and have it tested for fuel pressure, make sure its not the pump that the problem, or the regulator valve (in reference to the lean mixture problem).
You had said earlier that these two problems (EGR insufficient flow and lean mixture) are often related?
On a side note, after installing the new distributor with a new cap and rotor, cleaning up all my contacts, using some di-electric grease, so on and so forth, I have managed to significantly improve my gas mileage. I was getting 120km to half a tank, Im getting about 190km to half a tank now
Last edited by paulstanely45; 11-01-2009 at 01:41 AM.
11-14-2009, 03:10 AM
#23
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I went to the junkyard today and got a new EGR solenoid, and a new EGR sensor.
I found the solenoid I had already installed had a rattle in it if I shaked it, is that what would indicate a bad EGR solenoid? The new solenoid does not rattale at all.
I have replaced the EGR valve, the EGR solenoid, and the EGR sensor up to this point, I cant imagine what else the problem would be.
The KOEO codes read 332, and 172. Insufficient EGR flow, and HEGO inidicates system lean, respectivly.
Can anyone shed any light on what the next step may be? I have tried both fuel tanks, and noticed the same thing, so I am hard pressed to beleive both fuel pumps are producing insufficient pressure.
A friend of mine is re-doing the exhaust manifold gaskets come sunday (I would o them myself, but he wants 20 bucks, so, much cheaper and easier), he says that may be causing the problem.
Any thoughts?
I found the solenoid I had already installed had a rattle in it if I shaked it, is that what would indicate a bad EGR solenoid? The new solenoid does not rattale at all.
I have replaced the EGR valve, the EGR solenoid, and the EGR sensor up to this point, I cant imagine what else the problem would be.
The KOEO codes read 332, and 172. Insufficient EGR flow, and HEGO inidicates system lean, respectivly.
Can anyone shed any light on what the next step may be? I have tried both fuel tanks, and noticed the same thing, so I am hard pressed to beleive both fuel pumps are producing insufficient pressure.
A friend of mine is re-doing the exhaust manifold gaskets come sunday (I would o them myself, but he wants 20 bucks, so, much cheaper and easier), he says that may be causing the problem.
Any thoughts?
11-14-2009, 02:41 PM
#24
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I went to the junkyard today and got a new EGR solenoid, and a new EGR sensor.
I found the solenoid I had already installed had a rattle in it if I shaked it, is that what would indicate a bad EGR solenoid? The new solenoid does not rattale at all.
Raltle is no good.
I have replaced the EGR valve, the EGR solenoid, and the EGR sensor up to this point, I cant imagine what else the problem would be.
Air flow passing by the Air intake manifold. Torque down to spec in the proper bolt order.
The KOEO codes read 332, and 172. Insufficient EGR flow, and HEGO inidicates system lean, respectivly.#332 & #172 are not valid error codes for a KOEO scan.These are KOER codes and even then they are either (R)'s &/or (C)'s. There is a differnce, so denote it accurately. Did you clear the codes before rescanning?
Can anyone shed any light on what the next step may be? I have tried both fuel tanks, and noticed the same thing, so I am hard pressed to beleive both fuel pumps are producing insufficient pressure.
It's worth testing your fuel pressure at the rail. Parts stores usually loan out the tool w/ a deposit. There is also a Fuel Pressure Regulator in the mix!
A friend of mine is re-doing the exhaust manifold gaskets come sunday (I would o them myself, but he wants 20 bucks, so, much cheaper and easier), he says that may be causing the problem.
Must be torqued to spec. & in proper order. Seems you will be adding more worms to your can if you do this mod prior to curing your existing problem. I personally don't recommend it. To the point that I fear I will loose interest in your dilema. But that's just me.
Any thoughts?
I found the solenoid I had already installed had a rattle in it if I shaked it, is that what would indicate a bad EGR solenoid? The new solenoid does not rattale at all.
Raltle is no good.
I have replaced the EGR valve, the EGR solenoid, and the EGR sensor up to this point, I cant imagine what else the problem would be.
Air flow passing by the Air intake manifold. Torque down to spec in the proper bolt order.
The KOEO codes read 332, and 172. Insufficient EGR flow, and HEGO inidicates system lean, respectivly.#332 & #172 are not valid error codes for a KOEO scan.These are KOER codes and even then they are either (R)'s &/or (C)'s. There is a differnce, so denote it accurately. Did you clear the codes before rescanning?
Can anyone shed any light on what the next step may be? I have tried both fuel tanks, and noticed the same thing, so I am hard pressed to beleive both fuel pumps are producing insufficient pressure.
It's worth testing your fuel pressure at the rail. Parts stores usually loan out the tool w/ a deposit. There is also a Fuel Pressure Regulator in the mix!
A friend of mine is re-doing the exhaust manifold gaskets come sunday (I would o them myself, but he wants 20 bucks, so, much cheaper and easier), he says that may be causing the problem.
Must be torqued to spec. & in proper order. Seems you will be adding more worms to your can if you do this mod prior to curing your existing problem. I personally don't recommend it. To the point that I fear I will loose interest in your dilema. But that's just me.
Any thoughts?
11-14-2009, 03:41 PM
#25
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I apologize for not being more specific with the engine codes.
I did receive them via a KOEO. I get two blinks of "111" which indicates system pass, and then it moves onto continuous codes if I am not mistaken.
Either way, if the engine is running, or the engine is off, and I perform the test, those are the results I get (332, 172).
When you say air passing by the intake air manifold, do you propose that there is a leak between the plenum and the lower intake manifold? I suppose that would explain why my RPMs down like to decrease properly until I have come to a stop, Im guessing if there was a leak it would cause more air to be sucked in causing the higher rpms.
I had just removed the EGR valve and tested to see if the ports were blocked, and they were not. Plenty of vacuum.
I figure Ill bring my truck into a shop to have them test the fuel pressure. The auto parts stores here are not lending out fuel pressure testers unfortunately.
I'll keep you guys posted on whats going on, you know you can't lose interest in this thread :P
I did receive them via a KOEO. I get two blinks of "111" which indicates system pass, and then it moves onto continuous codes if I am not mistaken.
Either way, if the engine is running, or the engine is off, and I perform the test, those are the results I get (332, 172).
When you say air passing by the intake air manifold, do you propose that there is a leak between the plenum and the lower intake manifold? I suppose that would explain why my RPMs down like to decrease properly until I have come to a stop, Im guessing if there was a leak it would cause more air to be sucked in causing the higher rpms.
I had just removed the EGR valve and tested to see if the ports were blocked, and they were not. Plenty of vacuum.
I figure Ill bring my truck into a shop to have them test the fuel pressure. The auto parts stores here are not lending out fuel pressure testers unfortunately.
I'll keep you guys posted on whats going on, you know you can't lose interest in this thread :P
11-14-2009, 04:00 PM
#26
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I apologize for not being more specific with the engine codes.
I did receive them via a KOEO. I get two blinks of "111" which indicates system pass, and then it moves onto continuous codes if I am not mistaken.
Either way, if the engine is running, or the engine is off, and I perform the test, those are the results I get (332, 172).
That means they are not active codes and are just stored in the continuous memory. If you don't know how to clear the Continuous memory w/ the scanner, disconnect the battery for anything over 5 minutes. Then reconnect, drive it for 10 or so miles & retest. Sounds like your codes might be a done deal!
When you say air passing by the intake air manifold, do you propose that there is a leak between the plenum and the lower intake manifold? I suppose that would explain why my RPMs down like to decrease properly until I have come to a stop, Im guessing if there was a leak it would cause more air to be sucked in causing the higher rpms. Yep, something like that.
I had just removed the EGR valve and tested to see if the ports were blocked, and they were not. Plenty of vacuum.
I figure Ill bring my truck into a shop to have them test the fuel pressure. The auto parts stores here are not lending out fuel pressure testers unfortunately.
I'll keep you guys posted on whats going on, you know you can't lose interest in this thread :P
I did receive them via a KOEO. I get two blinks of "111" which indicates system pass, and then it moves onto continuous codes if I am not mistaken.
Either way, if the engine is running, or the engine is off, and I perform the test, those are the results I get (332, 172).
That means they are not active codes and are just stored in the continuous memory. If you don't know how to clear the Continuous memory w/ the scanner, disconnect the battery for anything over 5 minutes. Then reconnect, drive it for 10 or so miles & retest. Sounds like your codes might be a done deal!
When you say air passing by the intake air manifold, do you propose that there is a leak between the plenum and the lower intake manifold? I suppose that would explain why my RPMs down like to decrease properly until I have come to a stop, Im guessing if there was a leak it would cause more air to be sucked in causing the higher rpms. Yep, something like that.
I had just removed the EGR valve and tested to see if the ports were blocked, and they were not. Plenty of vacuum.
I figure Ill bring my truck into a shop to have them test the fuel pressure. The auto parts stores here are not lending out fuel pressure testers unfortunately.
I'll keep you guys posted on whats going on, you know you can't lose interest in this thread :P
Last edited by ymeski56; 11-14-2009 at 04:04 PM.
11-16-2009, 09:28 AM
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What are you suggesting I check?
11-16-2009, 12:46 PM
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I am jumping the self-test connector and reading the codes as flashed out by my "check engine" light.
The new EGR solenoid is reading 39ohms, which the books says is acceptable(30-70ohms desired).
However, when testing both the EGR valve position sensors I have, I am getting readings lower than 100ohms, and far less than 5000. I thought it wouldnt be the case where both the sensors I have (the one that came with the truck, and the one I got at the junkyard) to both be not functioning correctly.
Unless I am reading the resistance wrong, I think that might ultimately be the problem.
I tried reading the resistance with the sensor out, and with the engine at idle and I am unable to get a reading of 5000ohms.
My multi-meter has several different settings for reading resistance, 200, 2000, 20k, 200k, and so on and so forth.
I was unable to get a reading with it set at 2000, and by pissing around it doesn't seem it would read higher than 2000 (I had originally assumed it was based on sig figs).
I switched it to 20K, and got a reading of 3.94 which I assume is 3940, which is still too low.
Im debating going to buy a sensor, advise?
The new EGR solenoid is reading 39ohms, which the books says is acceptable(30-70ohms desired).
However, when testing both the EGR valve position sensors I have, I am getting readings lower than 100ohms, and far less than 5000. I thought it wouldnt be the case where both the sensors I have (the one that came with the truck, and the one I got at the junkyard) to both be not functioning correctly.
Unless I am reading the resistance wrong, I think that might ultimately be the problem.
I tried reading the resistance with the sensor out, and with the engine at idle and I am unable to get a reading of 5000ohms.
My multi-meter has several different settings for reading resistance, 200, 2000, 20k, 200k, and so on and so forth.
I was unable to get a reading with it set at 2000, and by pissing around it doesn't seem it would read higher than 2000 (I had originally assumed it was based on sig figs).
I switched it to 20K, and got a reading of 3.94 which I assume is 3940, which is still too low.
Im debating going to buy a sensor, advise?