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Old 10-26-2009, 12:21 AM   #1
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Default Understanding Trouble Codes 111, 211, 172

Hey everyone,

recently pulled some trouble codes from my ECU, the KOEO code gives me 111, which the book says is a system pass, so I am assuming thats not a bad thing. I further went on to get the stored codes which are as follows (I get the same codes while doing a running test aswell).

211 says I have a PIP circuit fault. Doing some research around the net, a lot of people are saying that the most common problem is the magnetic pickup inside the distributor, or the distributor shaft itself has become magnetized.

Any recommendations on what to do for this? I will probably replace the pickup, but have any of you experienced this issue with a different fix?

Code 172 says the oxygen sensor is saying that the system is running too lean. Some people online say that it could be a bad MAP sensor, bad O2 sensor, not enough fuel pressure, or faulty injectors.

Again, have any of you had this problem and had a fix that I haven't listed or you found was the most common?

Vehicle in question is a 1994 F150 XL 5SPD 4X4 5.0L-EFI EXT CAB LONG BOX DUAL TANKS
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Old 10-27-2009, 03:23 AM   #2
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You've done your homework Weedhopper! Probably why nobody posted. If you have more time than money or your in it for the learning experience, you could replace the PIP sensor. If you have more money than time, replace the distributor. The lean condition could be influenced by the PIP sensor failure. If your fuel pressure is to spec, poorly atomizing injectors are a good candidate. If it were mine, I'd replace the distributor, run a can of "Seafoam" through the air intakehttp://www.f150forum.com/showthread.php?t=31505 Pour a bottle of Lucas fuel injection cleaner into the gas. If you have over 80k miles on the O2 sensor, replace it. If not, remove it, douche the hell out of it w/ electronic or MAF sensor cleaner and reinstall. Remove the IAC and clean in the same manner. Clear the Continuous Memory Errors. In fact, disconnect the battery for at least 5 mins. to clear the KAM (Kept Adaptive Memory). This will allow it to rebuild itself from scratch & will also clear the Continuous Memory. Then drive it for a while and scan it again. See what you got now? Any questions?
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Old 10-27-2009, 03:35 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by ymeski56 View Post
You've done your homework Weedhopper! Probably why nobody posted. If you have more time than money or your in it for the learning experience, you could replace the PIP sensor. If you have more money than time, replace the distributor. The lean condition could be influenced by the PIP sensor failure. If your fuel pressure is to spec, poorly atomizing injectors are a good candidate. If it were mine, I'd replace the distributor, run a can of "Seafoam" through the air intakehttp://www.f150forum.com/showthread.php?t=31505 Pour a bottle of Lucas fuel injection cleaner into the gas. If you have over 80k miles on the O2 sensor, replace it. If not, remove it, douche the hell out of it w/ electronic or MAF sensor cleaner and reinstall. Remove the IAC and clean in the same manner. Clear the Continuous Memory Errors. In fact, disconnect the battery for at least 5 mins. to clear the KAM (Kept Adaptive Memory). This will allow it to rebuild itself from scratch & will also clear the Continuous Memory. Then drive it for a while and scan it again. See what you got now? Any questions?

I agree ^^^
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Old 10-28-2009, 10:25 AM   #4
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Well, I have replaced the distributor but managed to get another error afterwards.

I was flooring it to test out the timing, which I had managed to get pretty close. I started here a loud ticking/slapping and I wasn't sure what it was.

The truck started idling funny afterwards, it wouldnt go back down to idling RPM until after I had come to a near complete stop. I had a problem similar with my 1992 Ranger, and it was because a vacuum hose had come loose.

I did a code scan last night and it still said it was running lean and there was a PIP circuit fault (although that may just be a stored code). The new codes says "Map vacuum circuit failure" and the other code indicated that there wasnt enough flow through the EGR valve.

I suspect the sound I heard had something to do with the EGR valve. I am not sure whether it is the solenoid, the sensor, a plugged vacuum line, either way Ill have to look into it.

Once done I'll clear the KAM and so on and so forth and see what happens. Ill keep you guys posted, please post anything that you feel may help! Thanks!
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Old 10-28-2009, 02:51 PM   #5
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Damn, When it rains, it pours! When you do your scan, You do the KOEO (Key On Engine Off). Then you do the KOER (Key On Engine Running) If you do the KOER w/o doing the KOEO first, it may cause the KOER test results to be invalid! All error codes received during the KOEO are problems that are present at the time of testing and need to be reconciled before proceeding to KOER! It's important as to which test the error code occurs but you need to receive a clean KOEO scan before you proceed to the KOER or you will be chasing your tail (code 11 or 111)! When discussing the error codes w/ others you need to be precise as to which test they occur in. KOEO/ KOER &/or the stored Continuous Memory! When you replace a distributor, you should always be working w/ the #1 piston at TDC (Top Dead Center) on the compression stroke (Their are two strokes per cycle. Only this one works. the other puts you 180 degrees out!) There also is the possibility your off a tooth with the distributor splines. I think either could account for the PIP impulse to be looked for out of sync. Not sure, my distributor change outs always went smooth. Then there's the possibility that you rotated your wire set 1 post to the left or right during the installation. That's a common mistake. As for the MAP sens. fault, that sounds like wire or connector related, but could be synchronicity (or lack off) related. And last but not least, the EGR code implies a Vac loss. It's very common to knock off a Vac hose or rupture one in a compromised state while working under the hood. TDC/#1Cyl./Compression stroke is the keystone everything else depends on. "And that's what makes the motor go round!" Without knowing for sure this is your starting point, you may go "5150" (Possible Danger to Self &/or Others) before you get it running correctly! I was off a tooth changing my first timing chain. That's how I learned about TDC. Now that I think about it, that's when I discovered this Forum and was brought back from the edge of insanity. "God bless you Ford Forum!" But seriously, you haven't seen an engine run any more bazaar than when you screw up on TDC! It seems like everybody has their own horror story. It's kinda like a mechanic's "Rite of Passage". Let us know, we'll do the best we can w/o being there, to help! Grasshopper, you are young, smart, yada, yada, yada.......Hang in there, you'll figure it out!
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Old 10-28-2009, 03:18 PM   #6
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Well, I'm not sure if I am off a tooth, but I did manage to time it at 10BTDC.

If I was off a tooth would this be possible?


All the tests I am doing are KOEO.
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Old 10-28-2009, 03:34 PM   #7
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Well, I'm not sure if I am off a tooth, but I did manage to time it at 10BTDC.

If I was off a tooth would this be possible?


All the tests I am doing are KOEO.
Did you remove the Spout connector before attempting to time it? Otherwise your not looking at your Base Time. Your looking at ECC adjusted Time!
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Old 10-28-2009, 04:30 PM   #8
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Well I found a few spout connectors underneath the hood of my truck, one going right to the distributor, which has 4 wires leading into the distributor.

My haynes manual had said to unplug a single wire spout connector. The only one I could find with a single wire was situated near my battery.

Is this the right connector?
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Old 10-28-2009, 06:46 PM   #9
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The spout is by the distributor, I think it has two wires. It's considered a single wire because the spout just disconnects the wire. Do both tests, KOEO and KOER. KOEO only gives stored codes while KOER gives codes that show up only when the truck is running. Always clear codes after doing any work to see what you fixed. A tooth off is fine as long as you can still set base timing correctly.
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Old 10-28-2009, 07:42 PM   #10
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Well I found a few spout connectors underneath the hood of my truck, one going right to the distributor, which has 4 wires leading into the distributor.

My haynes manual had said to unplug a single wire spout connector. The only one I could find with a single wire was situated near my battery.

Is this the right connector?
The Spout connection usually comes out of the wire bundle that goes to the TFI. My spout connection consists of two wires. the spout plug essentially
completes the circuit from the TFI (& distributor) to the ECC. Removing the spout plug interrupts that circuit. Also set the timing w/engine at normal operating temperature.
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