Truck wont start. Help
08-09-2015, 07:24 PM
#11
Senior Member
theres a small socket tool you can buy cheaply at many parts stores that will let you change the ignition module without removing the distributor. have you ever checked timing and is the timing still in the same spot after you messed with the distributor? even a small amount can be out of time badly.
08-10-2015, 09:22 AM
#12
theres a small socket tool you can buy cheaply at many parts stores that will let you change the ignition module without removing the distributor. have you ever checked timing and is the timing still in the same spot after you messed with the distributor? even a small amount can be out of time badly.
08-10-2015, 12:49 PM
#13
Senior Member
Did you clean the ignition module mounting surface on the distributor and put new dielectric grease on there? I ask because a buddy of mine didnt and started having stalling problems. I pulled the module, put the dielectric grease kn there and all was well after that.
11-01-2015, 07:41 PM
#15
Sell and buy a Toyota 
Kidding, but I have a similar problem with my 1993 5.0L. It will crank all day, but not start. I have chased this issue for over a year on this project truck. I have tried every trick in the book and it currently will not start. It has started and run for a period of time, but ultimately dies. The last thing I did was to change the ignition trigger. Still nothing. I have strong spark, 45 psi of a fuel, and 150-160 psi of compression across the board. Timing is at 10 BTDC. I can pour fuel down the intake, spray ether in the intake, etc. and not even a flicker. After reading all the posts on this forum about how fussy this EEC-IV system is, I started doing what I hate doing, replacing parts that tested good. A parts list as long as my arm and there is basically nothing left. My code shows that all is well. I have never had an engine that wouldn't at least show a flicker of life if it had compression, fuel, and spark. It simply defies all internal combustion logic. But then again, it's a Ford.
Kidding, but I have a similar problem with my 1993 5.0L. It will crank all day, but not start. I have chased this issue for over a year on this project truck. I have tried every trick in the book and it currently will not start. It has started and run for a period of time, but ultimately dies. The last thing I did was to change the ignition trigger. Still nothing. I have strong spark, 45 psi of a fuel, and 150-160 psi of compression across the board. Timing is at 10 BTDC. I can pour fuel down the intake, spray ether in the intake, etc. and not even a flicker. After reading all the posts on this forum about how fussy this EEC-IV system is, I started doing what I hate doing, replacing parts that tested good. A parts list as long as my arm and there is basically nothing left. My code shows that all is well. I have never had an engine that wouldn't at least show a flicker of life if it had compression, fuel, and spark. It simply defies all internal combustion logic. But then again, it's a Ford.
11-02-2015, 07:10 AM
#16
Sell and buy a Toyota Kidding, but I have a similar problem with my 1993 5.0L. It will crank all day, but not start. I have chased this issue for over a year on this project truck. I have tried every trick in the book and it currently will not start. It has started and run for a period of time, but ultimately dies. The last thing I did was to change the ignition trigger. Still nothing. I have strong spark, 45 psi of a fuel, and 150-160 psi of compression across the board. Timing is at 10 BTDC. I can pour fuel down the intake, spray ether in the intake, etc. and not even a flicker. After reading all the posts on this forum about how fussy this EEC-IV system is, I started doing what I hate doing, replacing parts that tested good. A parts list as long as my arm and there is basically nothing left. My code shows that all is well. I have never had an engine that wouldn't at least show a flicker of life if it had compression, fuel, and spark. It simply defies all internal combustion logic. But then again, it's a Ford.
Kidding, but I have a similar problem with my 1993 5.0L. It will crank all day, but not start. I have chased this issue for over a year on this project truck. I have tried every trick in the book and it currently will not start. It has started and run for a period of time, but ultimately dies. The last thing I did was to change the ignition trigger. Still nothing. I have strong spark, 45 psi of a fuel, and 150-160 psi of compression across the board. Timing is at 10 BTDC. I can pour fuel down the intake, spray ether in the intake, etc. and not even a flicker. After reading all the posts on this forum about how fussy this EEC-IV system is, I started doing what I hate doing, replacing parts that tested good. A parts list as long as my arm and there is basically nothing left. My code shows that all is well. I have never had an engine that wouldn't at least show a flicker of life if it had compression, fuel, and spark. It simply defies all internal combustion logic. But then again, it's a Ford.
11-09-2015, 07:26 AM
#17
I tested #1 cylinder for top dead center using a compression tester. It was in sync with the harmonic balancer and the rotor pointed at #1 on the cap. SPOUT off and cranking the timing is exactly at 10 BTDC. This should give me at least one cylinder that should fire. Nothing. I will use this same compression test on the remaining cylinders to be sure the firing order matches the truck as I did find two firing orders for the truck. But further investigation showed the difference was in how the cylinders were numbered. It was in a Ford manual, go figure. At the end of the day, the vehicle has run for periods and ran well. It is simply mind boggling and defies all the rules of an internal combustion engine. About the only thing left is to swap the PCM, again!! and all have tested as OK. It will be the third unit I've tried. Which is my point about Ford, there has to be a dozen different PCMs for this one truck. The design engineer, if you could call him or her that, should be taken out and shot. Or better yet, send them over to my house to troubleshoot this beast. My daughter drives a Saab and for every model, and combination thereof, they use one computer to control everything.
11-10-2015, 08:26 AM
#19
Exactly why I will double check the firing order by checking each cylinders compression. Not knowing if the engine has ever been replaced, this will confirm the firing order. The only problem being is that the engine has run for periods of time...... But I can at least check firing order as "off the list"
11-29-2015, 12:37 PM
#20
Double checked the firing order and it is exactly as anticipated. What I did was to pull all the plugs and check each cylinder for compression as it applies to the firing order. I did this to be sure someone didn't change the cam and therefor the firing order. As I said, it has run. After cleaning the new plugs, the truck started, sort of, for about a minute, then died and has not run since. My latest theory is that the plugs are fouling because of too much fuel. So I figured I'd dry out the plugs and eliminate the fuel by pulling the pump relay. By doing so I figure it should not fire until I give some starting fluid. I tried this and got nothing. This tells me something is not right on the spark side. I was using a Champion resister plug and will switch to a non-resister Motorcraft. This should increase the spark and I'll report back.