BMR150

I have the 1996 5.0L . On my way home from work less than a mile from home I made a turn and it just died. I pulled off the road and shut the ignition off and sat for a few seconds before trying to start it back up. It cranked but no start. I already had my front fuel pump replaced so I figured it was not fuel.

As I was checking connections and such a passerby stopped and he thought it was spark so we pulled a plug wire and I tried to start. He said he did not see spark but when we used a small piece of metal to go from the plug wire to the distrib and tried to fire it up it sparked and the truck started. I shut it off and he put the plug back on and it fired up again no problem.

I'm trying to figure out what I should go about doing. Because a few times when I go to start it in the morning to go to work or after work it would start and stumble so to speak just after it cranked over and then run fine. A couple of times I thought it was going to stall after just starting that I gave it some gas. The other day while at the shop for inspection the guy went to bring it in and I heard it start and then apparently stall because I heard him restart it. Could this be a simple plug and wire, ignition module or what?

Seems like after I fix one thing on this something else pops up a day or two later.

memoniz

Pull the codes and then run diagnostics on the ignition side of the engine. One of the two should tell you if you have a problem. Hayne's book has a good section on that. Or look at other similar threads and look for the link on easy engine diagnostics the Forge-World-Ford puts up. If I was better on a computer, I'd show you the link.

Also, I assumed you changed your fuel filter also?

fltdriver

A failing coil could cause this, as well as dist cap/rotor. You can get them all for under $25 total on rockauto

BMR150

yea, I was thinking of starting to just replace all that stuff and others as I got the funds and time. Just tried to start it a few mins ago and it started right up. I guess I will attempt taking it to work tomorrow and yea, I am going to put my scan tool on it and see if anything comes up.

BMR150

Small update, I took the truck out one day, nothing happened. I started it up again today and took it around the block so it was atleast driven. Checked for any codes and nothing. As I was backing into my driveway it stalled. Put it in park and it fired back up. To me it seems it stalls while almost idling. The time I mentioned in my first post it did it while making a turn, under no gas and it shut off as I was applying throttle. It did it this time while in reverse under no acceleration, just letting gravity and gear do the work.

So I am wondering if its fuel again... I did have the front pump replaced like stated, now I cannot remember if they did the filter too. I only run on the front tank and put about 4 gals in the rear and run that occasionally till its about empty than switch back to the front.

I think I am going to order some new plugs and wires, a distributor cap and rotor just because, it has 170k after all could not hurt. I have to get my car inspected so Im just going to take the truck along and see if they might now as well as do the work. I am done messing with it. If I can get it running good it may just wind up for sale anyhow.

Ol' Navy

Mine did the same thing except it wouldn't start at all. It was the coil.

memoniz

The reason I said earlier to do the tests is because I feel like a broken record about the PIP sensor. It can fail at any random time and start at any random time. I don't like to say that is your problem, you change the distributor, and it doesn't work. It can be the coil like Ol' Navy said. I've had the sensor fail on me twice, in the original distributor and the one a mechanic put in that was used. I didn't understand the problem at the time and the second time it failed was a year after the first fix. After deciding that I would do my own work from now on, all clues pointed to the PIP. I replaced the whole distributor with a new one from O'Rielly's, and have not had the problem in over 2 years and 44k miles. I let my truck sit for nearly 4 years because I didn't understand the problem.

It's easy to get carried away thinking that something your doing as you drive sets it off, but with the PIP, it is completely random. My truck has 300k on it now and runs as well as ever. Once you start down that road of doing your own testing and start understanding how your truck systems work, it all gets easier on future repair. Even if you don't like to do the work yourself, you can explain to someone what you think the trouble is. I love my truck, never plan to get rid of it. Never want another payment. 400k and beyond is a definite possibility. But I understand I need to be proactive to keep it running.

Sorry for the long winded post, I could go all day about how I feel about my truck. And it's just a stock '96 XL. The cheapest on the lot when I bought it brand new. There is a lot of pride on this site, and to read someone might just give up on their truck because they're tired of dealing with it is just sad to me.

BMR150

I'll do the PIP or would it be better to just replace the whole distributor? I figure with the miles I best just start replacing the wear out stuff when I get the funds. The shop I go to is awesome when it comes to prices so I never feel like I should of done it myself. They always ask if I want to buy the parts and then give me a price on the labor. My main reason for not do it myself now compared to a couple years ago is time and no garage. I am sadly severely allergic to anything that stings and in my area the most PITA stinging things are red ants, I have been battling them all season to no avail and being out and under the truck with these damn things is like I should just run into a bee hive lol. On top of that heat, I dehydrate while drinking water so its not pleasant for me anymore.

I love the truck too, probably should not post when upset haha. If I can get this nicked I'll be happy again. Even though my miata is a blast to drive I miss my truck.

memoniz

I don't know what the cost difference on replacing the PIP or the whole distributor. I've read that just replacing the PIP can be a pain. I replaced the whole distributor. I would still run the tests, whether you do it or the shop. It can be other things and I would hate for you to put in the distributor and it doesn't help.

BMR150

Yea, I just went ahead and got a new one anyway, I wanted to replace the cap and rotor and figured since I had a little extra money I would do it. I also ordered plugs and wires(routine, been awhile) and a new igniton. coil. No idea if they will help but as stated, mind as well replace wear out items. If they do not work I will continue hunting the problem