fltdriver

If you go with helper springs it shouldn't affect the ride height or quality and should be less expensive than bags.

redneckfordf2502002

If you are towing I would probably say you mine as well go with 4.10s. You might be able to take the ring and pinion from ones from an explorer 8.8 rear and put it in your F150.


Personally I would ZF5 swap it I have heard way to many problems using the M5OD as a tow pig. Then again your load I pulled with a 86 F150 4x4 302 AOD 3.55LS with no mods at all to the truck minus it was a trailer package and leveling kit.




I wouldn't just think about a hitch it would be on the top of my list I have ruined a few to many rear bumpers towing on them and not the hitch.




Last think I would recommend is a trailer brake controller and don't go with an el cheapo.
In my 88 F150, 94 Explorer, 02 F250, and dad's 89 F250 they have teckonsha or something like that.




As far as brakes go I wouldn't be the biggest concerned about that I have bosch brakes all the way around plus mater and booster and I dead stopped my 02 in my sig at full throttle with my 88 hooked up with a chain.
Besides I pulled a load of dirt that had my 31 10.5 15 tires on that 86 we had almost touching the bed and I drove like I usually would and no problems stopping at 50 MPH.
Trav

unit505

Your talking two totally opposite rigs when you compare an F250 to a stock F150 on brakes. Regularly towing a race car is going to call for zero traffic on level ground or to be absolutely safe, a set of drilled and slotted rotors. We'll worth the money and safety factor. I just had a set installed on my son's Sierra at $450. I could have done it cheaper than that, but the truck was in the shop already. Huge braking difference on that rig with 35's and extended cab. Felt like a totally different truck.

redneckfordf2502002

Ok I don't get where I said anything about F250 brakes?
My 88 is a F150.
My dad's 89 is a F250 which all I talked about on it was the trailer brake controller.
My 02 is a F250 which all I said again is a trailer brake controller and when I pulled my 88 how my 88 stopped my 02.




I agree slotted and drilled are great rotors. Frankly if y'all think it is so unsafe to pul the race car with an F150 then why haven't I seen any recommendations to swap a F250 front end and 10.25 with a decent gear ratio under it.
Trav

unit505

I read the '02 comment wrong. Sorry. I don't think the 150 is at all inadequate. I see guys pulling race cars at the dirt track all the time with f150's. I pulled 16ft. trailers quite a bit with my '94 with 3:55's. No pulling issues and still got good, well, decent gas mileage. Depends on my main objective. Everyday driver and hauling 20 miles to the track once a week, the 3:55's are fine. Again, depending on how much your hauling. Tools, spare tires, jacks, etc., then I'd probably go with a lower gear. Where's the balance of your driving? Everyday driver vs. a real tow rig. Around my area I can find used 250's and 350's for what he's looking at with the gear swap, brakes, hitch, etc. Especially towards the end of dirt track season. Most are beat to hell, but drive train is usually up to parr. $1500-$2000. Don't even think about air conditioning. Strictly a track truck. It's not at all uncommon to find a total package for $3-5k. Truck, trailer, car and spare parts. These guys jump in head first and beg to sell off what they had at the end of the season for whatever they can get.

redneckfordf2502002

I agree I think it would be best if he just sold it off and bought an F250 with the price it is going to cost to upgrade it to where he needs/wants.


Heck my dad bought his 89 F250 4x4 351W ZF5 4.10 LS gears with some front end damage for $700 and put about $300 into it and he drives it daily.


My brother bought his 91 F250 4x4 super cab 460 E4OD 3.55 open diff for $1000 all it needs is a motor and brakes which is about $1200 worth of work.
Trav