93Bandit

I wouldn't think that would cause this concern since it is intermittent and the engine sounds like it has a miss.

cts2433

Yes, it sounds like you have several issues here. What model year truck and engine size? Also, do you have any DTC's?

93Bandit

92, 302. No DTCs at this time.

cts2433

I went back and re-read your post and read where you said in the past you noticed that when the truck wouldn't crank you noticed that the check engine light would stay on. What you have is a faulty stator or PIP (profile ignition pickup) in the distributor. The stator is used for RPM, cylinder identification, and crank/cam position. When the stator completely fails, the PCM does not see a RPM signal and, as a result, you lose spark and injector driver signal. You have all the symptoms pointing to a stator on its way out - engine light staying on when cranking, sudden lack of power, intermittent no start, missing at times and erratic idle. I would recommend replacing the distributor with a reman as opposed to replacing just the stator (dist. gear has to be pressed off/on and stator is almost just as much as the dist). I had to buy one last week for my truck which was $80.

93Bandit

Where did you buy the reman? Just a local parts store? What brand?

cts2433

I bought mine from O'Reillys. They list a both reman and new. And I would recommend getting a new for an extra $15.

http://m.oreillyauto.com/mt/www.orei...d=distributor+

93Bandit

Cool, thanks. Is there any way I can test the pip to make sure it is the cause? I'd like to test when possible rather than just throwing parts because of a gut feeling. Not saying you are incorrect, just would like to verify if possible. Thanks.

cts2433

Here you go: http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/...=1456885702423



PCM connector pin out








Ignition stem diagram

93Bandit

Thanks!

93Bandit

I replaced the distributor today and it seems to be running a lot smoother. It starts a lot easier than it ever has too. I've only warmed it up once though, so I'm waiting for it to cool down so I can see how the cold start is.

I have a few questions though. I bought a craftsman timing light and it was about $80 so it should be decent quality. I set the timing to 10 degrees advanced with the spout connector pulled. When I reinstalled the spout connector, the timing was reading about 25 degrees at idle. Is that normal? That seems high at idle. So I drove it down the street and I could hear detonation under the slightest load, so I bumped the timing down to 8 and its better. Thats lower than factory though, so I wonder if my timing light is bad or maybe something else is going on? Also, when I set it to 8 degrees, I went for a drive and it started detonating a little bit at 45mph so I backed off and just cruised for a bit. Now, when I'm at a dead stop, and can go WOT and there is no detonation to be heard. Will the PCM detect minor detonation and make adjustments and learn these adjustments to prevent it from happening again? Or do I need to retard the timing further? I really don't want to.