Starts, then dies, then won't start.
10-26-2008, 11:11 PM
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Starts, then dies, then won't start.
1990 F-150 5.8L ATX 2wd Dual Tank
After sitting for a long while,on the initial key turn, the pump primes, and then stops after about 2 seconds (like normal), and the truck starts fine and idles, etc.etc. for about a minute to a minute and a half. Turn the key off after it dies and then back on, the pump won't prime. Does this truck have the in tank low pres. pump and the high pres. pump under the hood, or a combo in tank? I was thinking it might be the low pres. pump on it's way out, but then again i didn't know if anyone on here has had a similar problem, and then i thought about the fuel pump relay itself maybe being stuck? Can someone tell me where the relay is located so i can hit it with a hammer? errrr,"tap it gently" and see if it is getting stuck... any other suggestions from anyone on here? Anyone in a similar predicament? Please help- by the way, i'm new to the forum and did try to read around before i posted. This truck isn't technically mine, but i'm looking to get rid of the honda in my driveway, and am looking at a trade, someone help me get rid of the honda in my drive. Please, because then my drive will be all ford, again. lol
After sitting for a long while,on the initial key turn, the pump primes, and then stops after about 2 seconds (like normal), and the truck starts fine and idles, etc.etc. for about a minute to a minute and a half. Turn the key off after it dies and then back on, the pump won't prime. Does this truck have the in tank low pres. pump and the high pres. pump under the hood, or a combo in tank? I was thinking it might be the low pres. pump on it's way out, but then again i didn't know if anyone on here has had a similar problem, and then i thought about the fuel pump relay itself maybe being stuck? Can someone tell me where the relay is located so i can hit it with a hammer? errrr,"tap it gently" and see if it is getting stuck... any other suggestions from anyone on here? Anyone in a similar predicament? Please help- by the way, i'm new to the forum and did try to read around before i posted. This truck isn't technically mine, but i'm looking to get rid of the honda in my driveway, and am looking at a trade, someone help me get rid of the honda in my drive. Please, because then my drive will be all ford, again. lol
10-26-2008, 11:23 PM
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HOLY FAST REPLY BATMAN! lol thanks for the speedy reply. I'll try and get some work done on it this week and get back. Any suggestions on possible problems or am I basically going down the right path?
10-27-2008, 09:04 AM
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Does the engine have to be warmed up to run codes? It will not run long enough to reach normal operating temperature... I read the thread, and i did see that it said it had to be, but i was just asking.
10-29-2008, 10:30 AM
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Ok, so i read the codes, and it came out to be 21 24 21 24... I'm guessing that 21 is the start code and 24 is the end code? so that would mean there are no codes,right? now i didn't start it, then let it die like normal, which i might get the chance to do on thursday, and then recheck the codes while it's acting up? right? someone do me a big favor and translate those codes for me? In my 92 daytona, there was no jumper wire necessary, u turn the key on and off three times and on the third time, let it be, and it would flash trouble codes, which i didn't even realize this truck had, or my escort for that matter... lol any help would be appreciated. thanks.
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10-29-2008, 07:51 PM
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There should be a quick 1 - 1 to let you know it's ready to go.
Then you'll get codes with a brief pause between digits, and a longer pause between codes.
Separator shown by a single 1 flash
Then you get KAM codes same as before.
Considering that you left the 'extra' doodads out, 21 is the ECT out of range, and 24 is the ACT out of range.
The engine coolant temp sensor is a cheap and easy replacement, and could be causing it to die after warming up a bit. It could be telling the computer that it's still cold, when it's not.
The fact that your fuel pump doesn't prime the 2nd time is another issue, which I don't have any sort of answer for. Could be the in tank pump going out, but that's a more costly pain in the butt without knowing for sure.
Then you'll get codes with a brief pause between digits, and a longer pause between codes.
Separator shown by a single 1 flash
Then you get KAM codes same as before.
Considering that you left the 'extra' doodads out, 21 is the ECT out of range, and 24 is the ACT out of range.
The engine coolant temp sensor is a cheap and easy replacement, and could be causing it to die after warming up a bit. It could be telling the computer that it's still cold, when it's not.
The fact that your fuel pump doesn't prime the 2nd time is another issue, which I don't have any sort of answer for. Could be the in tank pump going out, but that's a more costly pain in the butt without knowing for sure.
10-29-2008, 09:45 PM
#9
21: engine coolant temperature sensor out of range.
24: air charge temperature sensor out of range.
Either of these will cause a bad running engine, but it shouldn't be enough for it to stall, and it certainly won't keep the fuel pump from coming back on. Does it do this with either tank selected? The relay could be going bad, and will only keep contact for a little while. Or there may be a power problem. Either way, you need to see if the fuel pumps will still run after the truck dies. Find the relay with the yellow wire, the red wire, the light blue wire with an orange stripe and a dark green wire with a yellow stripe. The yellow wire should always have power. The red wire should have power with the key on. The light blue wire with the orange stripe is the signal wire from the computer, it is grounded by the computer to turn on the pump. The dark green wire with the yellow stripe is power to the pumps. Hook a jumper wire to the dark green wire with the yellow stripe. When the truck dies, connect that to the battery positive. The fuel pump should now run, and the truck should run as long as there isn't a power problem to the computer. Try that and then we'll go from there.
24: air charge temperature sensor out of range.
Either of these will cause a bad running engine, but it shouldn't be enough for it to stall, and it certainly won't keep the fuel pump from coming back on. Does it do this with either tank selected? The relay could be going bad, and will only keep contact for a little while. Or there may be a power problem. Either way, you need to see if the fuel pumps will still run after the truck dies. Find the relay with the yellow wire, the red wire, the light blue wire with an orange stripe and a dark green wire with a yellow stripe. The yellow wire should always have power. The red wire should have power with the key on. The light blue wire with the orange stripe is the signal wire from the computer, it is grounded by the computer to turn on the pump. The dark green wire with the yellow stripe is power to the pumps. Hook a jumper wire to the dark green wire with the yellow stripe. When the truck dies, connect that to the battery positive. The fuel pump should now run, and the truck should run as long as there isn't a power problem to the computer. Try that and then we'll go from there.
10-30-2008, 10:09 AM
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would the ECT be out of range because the motor was not run to N.O.T before administering the test? and to think of it, there was a 1 flash before it began, but it wasn't as bright as the 21 or 24 flashes, so i dismissed it for some reason... and i'll be sure and try that later on today if i can...
