zebulonsmith

Hello, experts.

I just had a look at a 96 F150 4x4 with the I6, automatic and a long bed. The truck's only got 77k original miles, but it spent most of it's life off of the highway with farm plates on it. It was dark, but the underside looks decent. To make it nice, it'll need new front fenders and either some new panels for the bed or a new bed.

Mechanically, the thing's a peach as far as I can tell. The engine purrs so smooth that I thought it had stalled when I stopped to pull off the lot. 4 high engages easy, but it didn't want to drop into 4 low. Could be that I just wasn't familiar with the transfer case, I didn't want to force anything. I'm going to go back this weekend and have them put it on the lift so I can give it a good eyeballing, but other than a brake job it doesn't seem to need anything immediate to make it road worthy. The brake light and ABS light are both on and the pedal felt soft. My gut tells me that new rotors, pads drums and shoes ought to fix it and if not some new brake lines will.

$2000 seems to be a fair price to me for a truck with low miles like this one that needs some TLC.

A few questions for those in the know:
1) Is there anything specific I should check underneath while it's on the hoist?
2) What kind of fuel economy can I expect out of this thing? I'm predicting somewhere around 14-18mpg.

kooly1

I have a 4.9 I6 in my 1992 F-150. The mileage is horrible (My guesstimate is about 10-12 MPG) but it makes up because the truck never has a problem. Ol' Reliable to me and I would suggest buying it before you lose a good deal. I love my truck and wouldn't trade it for almost anything.

zebulonsmith

Thanks for the info, kooly. Being that I'll be driving it 30 miles each way to work, 12mpg might be a dealbreaker. Still stewing on it though. If I spend $3000 on a truck plus repairs, I can afford to spend a lot extra in fuel compared to what I'd spend in another payment every month.

Just call me Sean

iTrader: (1)

My '87 I6 will get 16 MPGs, only 2 wheel drive though. The '96 should get at least that, it has MAF instead of MAP like mine so better fuel control. The ABS light automatically comes on whenever the Brake light comes on, so the problem is more likely with the brake system.

zebulonsmith

I stopped and looked at a 94 with a 302 and a short bed this morning that has 129,000 on it and only needs a set of tires that I could ****** for $4500. Adding things up off the top of my head that the first truck I saw needs, this one might be a better deal when I add up the parts and my time to do everything. What do you guys think about my guesses on repair costs here?

Replacement Bed: $700
New Front Fenders: $200
Inside Rocker Panels: $200
Paint: $150
Brake Overhaul: $300
Seat Cover: $200
New Ignition Switch: $100 (big guess on this one)
Tonaeu cover: $300

Total: $2450

If my numbers are right (and I think they're close), I'd be at $4450 for the truck and parts, plus there's all of the time I'd have to put into it to take into consideration and I've got a heck of a lot of things to do right now.

Just call me Sean

iTrader: (1)

I think the trucks you are looking at are overpriced. I don't know what years you are looking at but something that needs work can be bought for cheap. Here's a few in my area:
http://orlando.craigslist.org/cto/1095912086.html
Here's a stepside:
http://orlando.craigslist.org/cto/1071453769.html
Here's a nice looking '97 for under $3000:
http://orlando.craigslist.org/ctd/1111223270.html

hillbillie

If you're looking for a solid truck, low cost DIY repairs, good for 300+k miles, go with the I6. If you're more concerned about aesthetics (and it sounds like you are), go with the 302.

I wouldn't be woried about the 4x4 locking, it's probably not the transfer case but more than likely where the old man hasn't used the 4x4 very often and you had an auto-lock hub uh... not uh... auto-un-lock... switch to manual lockers and you should be fine ($55 warner manual lockers).

other 'body' issues to look for would be the bottom radiator bracket mounts, mine have rusted through. jump up and down on the step sides (if she has them and i'm guessing the old bugger needed them), get the truck rocking and see how fast she levels out - if it continues to bounce, probably need to look at new shocks especially up front. OH, and Ford is notorious for bad rear main seal leaks. 5.0 or I6. Just have to add oil occasionally and expect the driveway driplets.

My 'guess' to you, is that the 302 is having a lot of issues and the guy wants to dump her and her daddy issue on somebody else (heater coil, trans, whatever). I6 (which might be the best/toughest engine ever built) w/ 77k, 4x4, bad brakes and bed rust... no brainer for me. Of course, I bought a truck and wasn't worried about the scratches i get using the 4x4. Hope this helps.

zebulonsmith

Main reason I'm looking at the short bed is that my wife is going to have to drive it occasionally and she was a bit intimidated by the size of the long bed. I'm not all that worried about aesthetics, but up north here the things will rust away around you if you don't keep it under control.

Thanks for all of the good advice so far. I think at this point, I need to sit down and stew about whether to spring for one of these or sit around and wait for an I6 with a short bed, which would be perfect.

Just call me Sean

iTrader: (1)

If you factor in gas and lost wages you can drive down south where they aren't rusting away and get a nicer truck for cheaper. They may still need cosmetic repairs but you won't have to weld in new body panels. There are several '87-'91 body style trucks around here for around $600-$800. The '92-'96 body style trucks are around $800-$1200.

Taylon

I've never seen more than 13 mpg in my i6, and I rarely see better than 12 and its a 2wd 5spd. It is, however, reliable.

I can't imagine your wife would have a problem drivin the long bed after she drove it the first time, the extra 2 feet is nothing to worry about

77k miles... you'll get another 200k easily, I'd definitely go with the i6.


Oh and check the brake lines, they are pretty easy and cheap to fix but if they are rusted at all you should be able to haggle the price down. Specifically there's a little three point polygon on mine where lines directly under the master cylinder plug in, it harbored moisture for years and corroded and dumped fluid everywhere.