tanman90

Alright ill make sure they're clean and shiny. Just to clarify, I already have battery to frame and battery to starter bolt and battery to body in front of battery. Y'all said I should add battery to block and block to frame. Sound pretty good? Here's a pic of it currently.


You can see my two 4 gauge positive cables and my three grounds bat to starter bolt, bat to frame, bat to body in front of bat (cable on left)

Ol' Navy

Looks good man. Faulty grounds can cause some weird ish. Recently in my camry my car would shut off when I had it on acc running the radio. I checked my battery and my ground cable on the battery was so hot it burned my finger. So I added a new ground and hasn't happened since lol.

tanman90

Thanks for the info. When I get off work today I'm gonna go exchange this solenoid and add the new grounds and cross my fingers and see what happens

tanman90

Hey guys, would a cable from the negative post to the top alternator bolt make a good battery to block ground?

Ol' Navy

No that's the bolt the alternator is grounded to. I've always heard don't use more than one ground on the same bolt. I used a bolt right on top of my engine in front of the crankcase on my 4.9. Just use an easy accessible engine block bolt if at all possible.

Ol' Navy

Edit. The alternator case is the ground itself they don't have ground wires. So bolted to the block is what grounds it.

tanman90

So I should move that ground to say...one of the throttle body bolts? Here's a pic after adding some more ground wires


You can see the wire on the left goes to the top alternator bolt

Ol' Navy

Try it like you have it first it may work fine. If not try moving it.

ThatNewWifeSmell

Any update to this? I'm having the same issue. The starter will stay engaged and running with the engine on or off, even when I pull the key out it will still continue to turn the engine over.

New starter and solenoid. Battery has plenty of charge. When I replaced the starter to try to fix this, everything worked great for 3 trips around town, now the starter stays engaged again. About a year ago the starter hung up twice within a week, I changed nothing and went a year without any issue. Now it's back and it's frustrating.

Chris_1

iTrader: (1)

There is a very slight difference in the manual and automatic starters. Having the wrong one can make it hang up.
There is a thin steel separator plate between the engine and transmission that is also referred to as a starter dowel plate - because the starter fits into the hole in the plate and gets exactly aligned with the flex plate / flywheel.
Also you will want to check the activation wire on the fender solenoid (the very small one in the center) that is powered by your ignition switch. A test light will work. Basically you want to make sure that this wire gets power when the key is at start and DOESN"T get power when the key isn't at start.
The large post on that solenoid that doesn't have power all the time should be tested with the light too to make sure that the solenoid is releasing. It should get power when the key is at start and not get power any other time.
There is another solenoid on the starter in the 90's trucks, but with a new starter it shouldn't be the problem.
Start with the test light check first to make sure it isn't just your ignition switch hanging up.