Stalls when hit hump
08-20-2014, 10:42 PM
#1
Stalls when hit hump
My 90 5.0 stalls whenever the rear axle hits a bump. But only for a second (like popping the clutch) check engine light flashes and lunges forward....
It only does it at like 35 mpg + and usually in overdrive
It will only do it if I'm giving it gas. If I'm not it won't stall...
Anybody got anything?
Thanks!
It only does it at like 35 mpg + and usually in overdrive
It will only do it if I'm giving it gas. If I'm not it won't stall...
Anybody got anything?
Thanks!
08-20-2014, 11:27 PM
#2
1994 F150 XLT 5.8L 2wd
Just be happy you are getting 35mpg!
Loose connection, bad ground. I had a truck (s10) that would completely die on a large bump, Turned out the ground from the pump to frame was loose.
Loose connection, bad ground. I had a truck (s10) that would completely die on a large bump, Turned out the ground from the pump to frame was loose.
08-21-2014, 07:28 AM
#3
But anyways... The ground for the fuel pump?
If so where's that located? Thanks!!
08-21-2014, 05:53 PM
#5
Senior Member
I had a problem like this , it was the radio noise filter on the coil.
It looks like a small can on the negative wire on the two wire connector on the ignition coil. Mine was hanging loose and the wire on it had chaffed through, if i hit a bump right, it would short out and kill the engine.
That may not be your problem , but it;s something to check.
It looks like a small can on the negative wire on the two wire connector on the ignition coil. Mine was hanging loose and the wire on it had chaffed through, if i hit a bump right, it would short out and kill the engine.
That may not be your problem , but it;s something to check.
08-21-2014, 05:59 PM
#6
I had a problem like this , it was the radio noise filter on the coil. It looks like a small can on the negative wire on the two wire connector on the ignition coil. Mine was hanging loose and the wire on it had chaffed through, if i hit a bump right, it would short out and kill the engine. That may not be your problem , but it;s something to check.
I'm not big on electrical problems haha
08-21-2014, 06:00 PM
#7
Senior Member
My plug right at the coil had cracked making the connection loose, it went for awhile where it'd only miss on a bump but eventually it got loose and the truck wouldn't run. I ended up taking the plug right off and putting spade connectors on.
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08-22-2014, 08:42 AM
#8
1994 F150 XLT 5.8L 2wd
Just follow the wires coming from your gas tank, one of them will be bolted to the frame, check all of your grounds since you are doing one. Get a piece of emery cloth or sand paper, every place you find a wire bolted to the frame remove it and sand the eyelet and frame until shiny, a wire brush to the bolt will also be beneficial. While you are doing this just take a second to visually inspect your wiring, it should be fairly easy to spot and wires that are missing insulation, burnt, or broken. Including sanding it shouldn't take more than 30-45 minutes to get all of your grounds cleaned. Start at the tank and work your way around the truck.
Also using some quick drying electronic clean (like $4 for a can that will last years) unplug the pump connector (follow wires from pump, will only be a foot or so until you hit the connector) and spray both pieces with QDEC, also check to make sure none of the wires are loose from there holes. It won't hurt to do all of your connectors at this time, anything you can find, engine bay, under truck. I don't know how many times a simple connector cleaning has cured my problems. When I clean one I try to hit as many as I can find. I usually spray both ends of one, locate and unhook another spray it, by this time the first is dry so I hook it back up, find another and unhook/spray, reconnect the second and find a fourth. It may take about 30 minutes or so but you should be able to do your entire truck rather quickly.
Also check/clean the battery terminals and connectors, you can use almost anything to do this: coca-cola, vinegar and baking soda, store bought terminal cleaner, etc....
The feedback blocker is by the ignition coil, find your distributor cap and follow the only wire not going to the engine (spark plugs), as you near the ignition coil you will see what looks like a size C battery that has a really thin wire, this is the fb blocker. Ensure that it is still connected and that you coil/cap wire is still connected.
Basically just give your electrical system a once over, since this happens with bumps you know something is loose, even if you don't have time to do it all at once just pick a section and check to make sure that everything is properly connected/secured and not in need of replacement (frayed or broken wires, damaged connectors, etc..), you don't have to know what each one does, just that it should be hooked up and making good contact (e.i. no gunk buildup, corrosion, not loose)
Also using some quick drying electronic clean (like $4 for a can that will last years) unplug the pump connector (follow wires from pump, will only be a foot or so until you hit the connector) and spray both pieces with QDEC, also check to make sure none of the wires are loose from there holes. It won't hurt to do all of your connectors at this time, anything you can find, engine bay, under truck. I don't know how many times a simple connector cleaning has cured my problems. When I clean one I try to hit as many as I can find. I usually spray both ends of one, locate and unhook another spray it, by this time the first is dry so I hook it back up, find another and unhook/spray, reconnect the second and find a fourth. It may take about 30 minutes or so but you should be able to do your entire truck rather quickly.
Also check/clean the battery terminals and connectors, you can use almost anything to do this: coca-cola, vinegar and baking soda, store bought terminal cleaner, etc....
The feedback blocker is by the ignition coil, find your distributor cap and follow the only wire not going to the engine (spark plugs), as you near the ignition coil you will see what looks like a size C battery that has a really thin wire, this is the fb blocker. Ensure that it is still connected and that you coil/cap wire is still connected.
Basically just give your electrical system a once over, since this happens with bumps you know something is loose, even if you don't have time to do it all at once just pick a section and check to make sure that everything is properly connected/secured and not in need of replacement (frayed or broken wires, damaged connectors, etc..), you don't have to know what each one does, just that it should be hooked up and making good contact (e.i. no gunk buildup, corrosion, not loose)
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17d0dbdc-7fb6-4469-bc2a-4042faecc06d (08-22-2014)
08-22-2014, 05:35 PM
#9
Just follow the wires coming from your gas tank, one of them will be bolted to the frame, check all of your grounds since you are doing one. Get a piece of emery cloth or sand paper, every place you find a wire bolted to the frame remove it and sand the eyelet and frame until shiny, a wire brush to the bolt will also be beneficial. While you are doing this just take a second to visually inspect your wiring, it should be fairly easy to spot and wires that are missing insulation, burnt, or broken. Including sanding it shouldn't take more than 30-45 minutes to get all of your grounds cleaned. Start at the tank and work your way around the truck. Also using some quick drying electronic clean (like $4 for a can that will last years) unplug the pump connector (follow wires from pump, will only be a foot or so until you hit the connector) and spray both pieces with QDEC, also check to make sure none of the wires are loose from there holes. It won't hurt to do all of your connectors at this time, anything you can find, engine bay, under truck. I don't know how many times a simple connector cleaning has cured my problems. When I clean one I try to hit as many as I can find. I usually spray both ends of one, locate and unhook another spray it, by this time the first is dry so I hook it back up, find another and unhook/spray, reconnect the second and find a fourth. It may take about 30 minutes or so but you should be able to do your entire truck rather quickly. Also check/clean the battery terminals and connectors, you can use almost anything to do this: coca-cola, vinegar and baking soda, store bought terminal cleaner, etc.... The feedback blocker is by the ignition coil, find your distributor cap and follow the only wire not going to the engine (spark plugs), as you near the ignition coil you will see what looks like a size C battery that has a really thin wire, this is the fb blocker. Ensure that it is still connected and that you coil/cap wire is still connected. Basically just give your electrical system a once over, since this happens with bumps you know something is loose, even if you don't have time to do it all at once just pick a section and check to make sure that everything is properly connected/secured and not in need of replacement (frayed or broken wires, damaged connectors, etc..), you don't have to know what each one does, just that it should be hooked up and making good contact (e.i. no gunk buildup, corrosion, not loose)
08-27-2014, 02:26 PM
#10
I think I figured it out...
Where the fuses are under the days there is a wire hanging there with a fuse connected to it (on one end) and another wire leading off the other end of the fuse. I assumed it was for the aftermarket security box someone installed and it makes my truck flash as if I had the 4 ways on (and the instruments light up with it)
So I've always left it unplugged, seeing no purpose of keeping it in.
I plugged it in a few days ago and it hasn't happen since...
Where the fuses are under the days there is a wire hanging there with a fuse connected to it (on one end) and another wire leading off the other end of the fuse. I assumed it was for the aftermarket security box someone installed and it makes my truck flash as if I had the 4 ways on (and the instruments light up with it)
So I've always left it unplugged, seeing no purpose of keeping it in.
I plugged it in a few days ago and it hasn't happen since...
